It's fair to say that Pure Leather is the closest to the original A*Men but nonetheless falls short of it by failing to be as balanced in terms of the sweeter vanilla and the coffee/patchouli A*Men DNA. Pure Leather is, by contrast, relatively dull, and leather-centric, so in that respect it's loyal to its name, but I almost find Pure Wood to be a more interesting leather fragrance (more in the direction of Tom Ford Tuscan Leather) than Pure Leather itself. So in that respect, Pure Leather is a bit disappointing, but it surely makes sense that it's cheaper (only $38 for 100ml on FragranceNet) than the other flankers.
Pure Leather's projection and longevity lives up to the A*Men line standard, but it's the fragrance itself that is uninteresting enough to not merit being purchased, despite it not smelling bad at all. It simply doesn't go off in enough of its own direction to merit distinction from the other more interesting A*Men flankers, particularly Pure Wood, which I would recommend trying alongside Pure Leather as a leather comparison. Otherwise, Pure Havane and Pure Malt really remain the standout stars of the line.
6 out of 10
This is the 3rd A*Men flanker I have tried, having never smelled the original A*Men. These things all take way too long to reveal their pleasant qualities. This one is no different, but its strange combination never really takes off. The top note of this one is a very synthetic, nauseating sweetness. After 30 min to an hour, the leather starts to come through, but I can't get the opening out of my nose. Imagine some sort of diet Arnold Palmer (iced tea mixed with lemonade). Now pour that into a leather handbag along with some extra nutrasweet. If you want that on your skin, be my guest.
Pure Havane and Pure Malt are better flankers, though only if you like them sweet and youthful...and "better" is relative, since I'm not sure I would recommend them either.
Pure Leather is a bit of a Jeckel and Hyde. Where I first smelled this I got the leather, but it was very sweet chemical synthetic smell with a bunch of crazy harshness going on in the background. After about an hour the peppermint starts coming out along with a smoother leather note with the sweetness in the background. Beyond 2 hours this stuff is awesome smelling. Everything blends together which is when the original A*men base starts coming into play with the peppermint and leather. There's also a spiceness that comes out in the drydown which reminds me of the chili in A*men Taste of Fragrance. Good things come for those who wait with Pure Leather. Projection and Longevity are outstanding and exceed both Pure Malt and destroys Pure Havane in that department. I think to best describe this would be the original A*men perfected. This one is awesome!
Of the four flankers, Pure Leather smells the closest to the original A*Men. A leather/suede note is added to the heart, (think new leather jacket) and the vanilla is amplified in the base. Doesn't have the same gourmand vibe as A*Men, Pure Coffee, or Pure Malt.
I have really really come to appreciate Thierry Mugler fragrances. When I first smelled angel men I literally could not understand the concept and hated it. Then I tried pure havane and pure malt, fell in love then revisited the line and find myself buying every flanker they come out with. Pure leather being no different.
Many seem to discount pure leather/cuir as simply angel men with more mint and leather added. I couldnt disagree more. Sure the mint is stronger, and while you definitely get an amen feel from it I dont think they smell that close. I think what people dont want to admit is that they are upset this flanker isnt in the realm of pure malt and pure havane. IMHO pure malt, pure havane and TOF all have a sweet fruity accord. I think pure leather would have done and would do better with a different name to distance itself from the expectations of having pure in its name.
Pure leather to me is much more earthy and woody in the drydown when compared to Angel men. Angel men to me is very much a mocha type smell where this is much less focused in the sweets department. And while it is true that the leather in pure cuir is not what I expect when thinking of leather (jacket, wallet etc) it however pleasant and different. And if I really think about it the way they went with it seems to make more sense than if what I actually expected had been instead.
I would say if you really want to appreciate pure leather and all the Mugler line that isnt pure havane and pure malt then you have to stop using them as the measurement of which to judge all mulger releases. If you look at each release as its own thing and stop going into it with preconceived notions of what you think it should be then you should find that they are still making some of the most interesting and best designer fragrances currently being made.
Just blind bought this. if you're looking for leather, don't go here. What you have instead is a toned-down A Men without the tar note and with a touch of mint. I think it's a fantastic fragrance and better than the three A Men and flankers I've owned: Pure Malt, Pure Havane, and the original A Men.