Perfume Directory

Une Voix Noire (2012)
by Serge Lutens


Une Voix Noire information

Year of Launch2012
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 35 votes)

People and companies

HouseSerge Lutens
PerfumerChristopher Sheldrake
Parent CompanyShiseido

About Une Voix Noire

Une Voix Noire is a feminine perfume by Serge Lutens. The scent was launched in 2012 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake

Une Voix Noire fragrance notes

Reviews of Une Voix Noire

If I would have to choose between Beyond Love by Kilian et Une Voix Noire, as they are not unlike each other, the choice is easy:
Une Voix Noire.
UVN is more profound in its darkness and in its light tones and has better projection. Although being a rather subdued kind of perfume, it stands out, proud of its own character.
In comparison BL stays quite muffled, which I consider very inconsistent with its name, besides being an unwanted quality in any perfume.
UVN, to me, leaves "Beyond Love" behind and enters the stage to act a more vibrant part: "Because of Love".
04th January, 2020
Lutens' tribute to blues singer, Billie Holiday, who always wore a gardenia in her hair when performing, is an intriguing take on the gardenia note, bringing in a sultry smokiness to underline the intensely sweet scent of the flower.

We are told by perfumers that gardenia oil does not contain the scent of the flower, so that the impression of gardenia must be constructed in the laboratory from combining other natural oils, most essentially tuberose, which it most resembles.

This is a refined, restrained gardenia note, not screechingly sweet as most soliflores choose to be. It has a caramel undertone that supports and intrigues.

One of Lutens best scents and a bit of a surprise to find it so recent a release. I had though the house's best years were behind it.

A must smell for all gardenia lovers.
21st June, 2016
A boozy-fruity-floral. This is what it smells like to me, and I like it. Not my favouite among SL fragrances, but quite interesting and pleasant. I am not sure it really smells like gardenia since I cannot define its scent. But this is clearly a white floral fragrance which has elements of boozy-ness and a touch of being fruity as well. It is not very sweet to me though, which is good!

Since it is neither too sweet nor too fruity, it works well on men too, in my opinion. Rather long lasting with medium projection. And it does not change much throughout its life on the skin.
26th July, 2015
I was bummed when Keihl's stopped making their Gardenia oil. Then I found this, which I liked even better, immediately. I haven't liked a lot of Sheldrake stuff before, so I was pleasantly surprised to find such an enjoyable gardenia+smoke with no trace of the powder I get with everything else he makes. It's spendy, but worth saving for. I look forward to adding something more than a sample to my collection.
08th May, 2014
This one strikes me immediately as a darker version of Fracas, with a slightly unpleasant, petro-chemical opening. To me this is definitely tuberose, rather than gardenia, & l wonder if this is what Tubereuse Criminelle was supposed to smell like - l find that one far less potent than many other people seem to. Fifteen minutes in, the chemical note is overtaken by a boozy, stewed fruit-like sweetness, & the fragrance continues in this vein for several hours. l get the merest hint of smoky incense in the far drydown, but nowhere near as much as l'd hoped for. The projection is good, & it's still going softly after nine hours.
For me this one is very disappointing, as l expected a smoky gardenia, but instead got a fruity, chemical tuberose. However if you love Tubereuse Criminelle but find it a little too subtle for you, this might be just what you need!
04th April, 2014
What a strange scent! I could not immediately decipher it, have so strong contrasts. As soon as I opened the box, with the bell still sealed, it seemed the smell of Tubereuse Criminelle. A drop on the wrist and understand that it is a composition very intense, opens immediately with a real Gardenia, palpable, smooth, fleshy, carnal, with a little dreamlike and abstract background, as one of those beautiful professional photos which can be find of this flower. The sharpness of the image is distorted by the games of light and shadow that the duo Lutens / Sheldrake likes to create. Before the flower is shown in a context of extreme grace, a simpering cleaness but that doesn't lead in the detergent as some predecessors; after the gardenia is dragged between strong alcoholic and smoked effluvia, a dark tone which also expresses its indole side (elegantly indole, this is the part that I associate with Jardenia of JAR, but UVN is more complex). This alternation goes on, and the phases expand more and more how to undo the stitches of a fabric, will pass a lot of time but then Lutens will give us the solution ... quoting himself ... again. The candied cedar in base, again is a variation on the theme of the Bois, but that is revealed only at the end. A Bois de Violette becomes Bois de Gardenia with even a slight leathery. The color is once again the violet, which is tinged at times of pastel and sometimes of obscure velvet.
Sillage, longevity... etc... are nice.

Rating 6.5/10
08th May, 2013

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