Perfume Directory

Lipizzan (2010)
by Parfums de Marly

Advertisement

Lipizzan information

Year of Launch2010
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 20 votes)

People and companies

HouseParfums de Marly

About Lipizzan

Lipizzan is a masculine fragrance by Parfums de Marly. The scent was launched in 2010

Lipizzan fragrance notes

Reviews of Lipizzan

Parfums de Marly Lipizzan (2010) is perhaps the most criminally under-appreciated fragrance the company has ever released, which is a really bold statement to make, but before I get into why, we need some context. The year 2010 was a another huge "changing of the guard" year for masculine-market perfumery, twenty years exactly from the last major shift in the landscape. Back in 1990, all the old musky and mossy aromatic masculines were breathing their last gasp of freedom before being dismantled and swept away by calone and dihydromyrcenol-powered aquatics and fresh fougères. By the year 2000, the fragrance landscape was changed again, but this time by the proliferation of niche fragrances in the male space thanks to the success of Creed, showcasing that guys were willing to spend double to triple what they once did if it meant having a fragrant edge on the competition. In 2010 Parfums de Marly would launch globally with four masculine-market releases in their now-iconic heavy-capped embossed bottles, but they were nearly blindsided by a massive olfactive shift in the market thanks to the proliferation of ambroxan and norlimbanol by Creed Aventus (2010) and Bleu de Chanel (2010) in the niche and designer realms respectively. Suddenly, nothing the budding luxury brand offered was really relevant in the shadow of such dual titans save maybe Godolphin (2010), which drew favorable comparisons to Tom Ford Tuscan Leather (2007). Of three other releases launching the brand, Lipizzan was the huge nod to the old school, the one for the mature man not fit to be bothered with trend or compliments, which naturally makes it the most-doomed of the lot. Darley (2010) was sweet and attention-getting, Ispazon (2010) was clean and mild-mannered for office use, but Lipizzan broke pretty much all the rules and featured an oakmoss chypre base that would be impossible to make even a year later after IFRA effectively neutered the use of the ingredient after 2011. What makes Lipizzan so unloved is its target audience (mature men over 40) mostly hate the brand for being "on-trend" and focused on spruced-up modern mass-appeal accords, and generally perceived as overpriced for what they are. While I won't argue that isn't the case with their most popular scents, I will interject that if those same folks got a whiff of this, their minds would be blown.

Parfums de Marly Lipizzan is for all intents and purposes a niche take on the animalic "dandy" chypres popular in the mid to late 1980's. For as hard as it may be to believe that Parfums de Marly is or ever was even remotely capable of such a thing, smelling is believing here with Lipizzan. The main theme is a jasmine and rose tandem surrounding a heart note of carnation, topped with bergamot, galbanum, and herbs, then laid to rest on a base of leather, civet (likely civetone), and oakmoss. For the guys who like references, this is basically a love letter to Bernard Chant but also Lauder for Men (1985), Aramis (1965), and Aramis 900 (1973) all from Estée Lauder, with some inspirational riffs taken from more-obscure releases like Lord Molyneaux by Parfums Molyneaux (1989), 1881 pour Homme by Nino Cerruti (1990), and Joint by Roccobarocco (1993). Lipizzan opens with a green chypre bergamot and lemon, with tarragon, clary sage, and thyme helping to smooth out the galbanum in the top so it doesn't sting. There is a small puff of aldehyde here and before long the funky carnation, rose, jasmine, and cardamom do a watusi while slivers of the isobutyl quinoline leather accord appear. The sourness of this note is very restrained, as is the pissy civetone, because this is still Parfums de Marly after all, and they were looking to put on that air of French civility and refinement they still drone on about today. However, all the musky leathery goodness is there even if significantly muted, teasing up the base of vetiver, oakmoss, cedar, camphorous patchouli, and vanilla. The final drydown of Lipizzan is fairly complex, floating between patchouli, vetiver, the musks, the oakmoss, and with a tiny bit of smoothness from the vanilla. The rose/jasmine/carnation accord flit and fly here and there above this skin feel, and you'd swear you were wearing something far older than Parfums de Marly. Hell, you might even mistake this for some lost Lanvin with the way the base plays out, and the whole thing is very, very French. Performance is good but bear in mind that the early clear bottle PdM releases were eau de toilette, and this was discontinued only a few years after launch due to IFRA, so projection and longevity (while good) will not be radioactive like Herod (2012) or Galloway (2014). I'd use this formally or in spring through fall like with most chypres, but beware if you're a young hip dude that doesn't want to smell of "old man".

It may be a stretch for some longtime hobbyists to consider scents like the aforementioned Aramis 900 or Lord Molyneaux as niche because they once littered perfume counters everywhere, but the fact of the matter is they are because the styles they exist in are all but dead anymore. Tom Ford and other luxury houses like Roja Dove have banked on reinventing classics from perfumery's past as high-class indulgences for years, so in some regards what Parfums de Marly did here was really no different, just out-of-character for a house that gets constant praise from YouTube shills as the preeminent maker of expensive compliment magnets which rely on heavy-handed doses of aromachemicals to make their voices heard above your average designer. This is why Parfums de Marly is literally the last place an older man "trapped in the 80's" would look for a niche interpretation of his favorite smells, nor where a younger collector bitten by the vintage bug who worships at the alter of Yves Saint Laurent Kouros (1981) would seek a modern analog, yet here it is. Some of you may not think this holds a candle to the styles it co-opts, and you may be right if we're judging by the sheer density of oakmoss or animalics present, or the lack of sometimes-obnoxious 80's powerhouse sillage, but artistry, execution, and intent are inarguable with Lipizzan. I dare say you won't find a better men's chypre made in the 21st century outside an at any price outside an artisanal house ignoring IFRA regulations, so if you're not a "vintage or bust" kind of guy, Parfums de Marly Lipizzan is worth seeking out. Easily the best-kept secret of the house, and an unfortunately discontinued one at that, you may still come across a bottle online for the price of your typical Amouage at discount, but that is likely to change as the years roll by. If Lipizzan has spiraled into some unicorn like a few of the 80's scents it emulates by the time you read this, it's poetic irony if anything, but doesn't change the fact that deep down inside Parfums de Marly exists the guts to make a proper French perfume for men. If you find yourself being asked anything near (or over) what Parfums de Marly wants at retail for a bottle of this, you might be better off paying the price for a few coveted vintages like named earlier and layering them together for an approximation of the effect, because it makes no sense to buy an homage (niche or otherwise) if you're dropping that kind of coin anyway when you can just have the originals. Thumbs up.
13th February, 2020
Not for this price

A nice, smooth, vetivery aromatic fougere quite in the same vein with Loewe Esencia. While it smells slightly better and softer than Esencia, its performance is disappointing.  Apply generously, this is weak. I mean l'artisan weak.

Pros: Masculine, smooth
Cons: weak

22nd May, 2013

Add your review of Lipizzan

You need to be logged in to add a review

Shop for Lipizzan products online

Some of the links we use are affiliate links, meaning if you click the links and make a purchase, we may receive a commission, which helps us keep the site running

Search for on eBay

Member images of Lipizzan

There are no member images of Lipizzan yet. Why not be the first?

You need to log in or register to upload images

Private Notes

You need to be logged in (or register here) to use Private Notes.

Advertisement