Patchouli Leaves by Monotheme opens with bergamot and ambroxan hiding a bright and light patchouli note, which smells here quite transparent, dusty, “thin” and sweetened by a nostalgic, slightly camphorous floral breeze which kind of reminded me of Essence de Patchouli by Perris Monte Carlo (or Alyssa Ashley, you choose). A fresh, sophisticated, lively and much discreet patchouli, with a subtle grey-musky aftertaste. Nothing raw, earthy or rich as in most of others patchouli scents; on the contrary a clean, leafy and ephemeral rewriting of such material. Really pleasant to wear, albeit ridicolously short lived, and exceedingly close to skin. At 15 EUR for 100 ml, no complaints though (and plus the bottle reads “Eau de Patchouli”, as if this was a “toilet water” more than a proper fragrance, so perhaps the lightness and short persistence are implicit).
This is an ideal fragrance for those that want to experience the intoxicating ruggedness of patchouli without it projecting far beyond their own skin. Subsequent stages are mellower,and even feel a little sweeter, but it also diminishes to the point of invisibility inside about 3 hours. It's a valiant attempt from Monotheme, but it is handicapped by its impotence. Should I succumb to one of my infrequent cravings, I will take my patchouli from Etro .