Opardu is not a lilac soliflore by any means, but it comes closer to my idea of an ideal lilac than most lilac perfumes, which is to say, something that captures the heady, almost fetid aroma of lilac blossoms when they are overripe and hanging heavily from the trees. Strangely enough, the floral richness I love in lilac is not coming from the lilac note itself that has been used here – a strangely soapy, old-fashioned lilac – but rather the sumptuous, sensual textures and aroma molecules it borrows from the tuberose and gardenia.
The opening is green, fresh, and dewy – pure lilac blossoms as their buds begin to open on the tree, therefore more woody twigs and leaves than actual bloom. As the essential soapiness of the lilac (in perfumery at least) rises to the top, there is a heavenly intervention from below by tuberose and gardenia (mostly gardenia, actually, to my nose). There is a single-cream-strained-through-peanut-shells quality to the gardenia that infuse the chaste lilac with a milky sensuality, followed with a salt-lick chaser. It has the type of serene beauty that gives me a lump in my throat.
Although I am far more of a floral oriental girl at heart, there is something about well-done, dewy florals approaching scary levels of verisimilitude that moves me. These are florals that I mostly prefer to smell from vials, though, as opposed to wearing, as I find soliflores to be exhausting. There is something about their single-minded truthfulness that I find too literal to support for more than an hour or so.
But Opardu is not a soliflore – it is a floral concerto with the strings, bass, and wind all pulling in the same direction. And yet, like Ostara by Penhaligon’s, its large range of different floral notes somehow, magically, mysteriously coalesce into the scent of a single bloom – here, in Opardu, the scent of a lilac bloom captured at the bud stage but then carried through a shortened olfactory life cycle to full-out, sensuous flowering, thanks to the subtle nudging by the gardenia. Creamy and cool, it would suit a young lady who is very beautiful but also modest. If you know someone like that, buy it for her!
Really well-done lilac and tuberose - I don't care for lilac in general, but it's downplayed in Opardu. And the quality of the florals are obvious. It's heady, cool and a little crisp, with a lovely, clean classic bouquet that has a light sheen of a faint woody base. The underpinnings of elegance are there from the start because you immediately sense a structuring. I saw a rich blend of cool white florals floating between two white fluted marble pillars. At a certain point you can't help but think bridal fragrance with Opardu, but it lacks the histrionics of many white florals. Instead it has an assured tastefulness and doesn't rely on shouting to get attention. There is a slight soapiness which enhances the clean coolness. And at the end there is a little creamy warmth that sits well. Some florals speak to the heart, some arouse, some are like fairies in springtime. Opardu is the self-possesed woman. It centers in the feminine intellect, but strengthens her power center. As a movie said, a woman whose situation is always situated.
Saying that, I'm not smitten enough to pay the incredibly exorbitant price for this. That honor would have to go to a different style of fragrance that suits me better, one with a little more sensuality. But I can recommend this to anyone seeking a signature cool sophisticated floral, as it's sophistication really carries a presence, and sometimes that is the quality which is key to what we want our fragrance to say about us.
09th March, 2015 (last edited: 20th March, 2015)
Opardu is a sharp, rich floral very in line with Amouage Gold, but not so animalic. I find the tuberose very, very faint but instead get daffodil or is it marigolds? I'm not great with breaking out notes so forgive my vagueness. I don't even pick up much on the lilac, but having said all this it is, in a word, gorgeous! It's retro in a way that that Antonia and 1 are not, very elegant and a scent aimed at the mature market (as evidenced by the price). Longevity could be better for an extrait at this price, I get about 5 hours and projection is perfect, not going to smack anyone else in the face, but you're not left looking for it on your own skin either. I love it and would buy the 100 ml if I could afford it, but for now will settle for samples. Beautiful and worth every penny!
A truly nice and, as the advert claims, swanky feminine perfume. Definitely 5th Avenue. The florals are there, but no sensuality from musk or amber or sandalwood, so it's not for me.
Opardu opens on skin with a powerful blast of a tuberose and lilac floral duo with significant gardenia support. This overall heady white floral accord remains through the heart where it is now joined by just slightly indolic supporting jasmine and a faint rose well in the background. Into the dry-down the white florals finally recede and a soft faint cedarwood note from the base is revealed, remaining through the final stage of Opardu's life cycle with just trace remnants of the white florals now supporting it. Projection is above average and longevity is average.
Opardu by Puredistance is all about white florals. The tuberose and lilac are definitely the stars here and you really have to enjoy those notes to fully appreciate what Opardu has to offer. The cedar backbone is really undetectable until you get to the final stage of the scent's development, as all the various florals completely dominate it. It became more than clear early-on that the tuberose and lilac used in Opardu are of a very high quality and one can certainly sense the quality of the composition in general. That said, comparisons with reference tuberose compositions including Carnal Flower are inevitable. Using that benchmark, it is hard to recommend Opardu for purchase despite its admittedly high ingredient and composition quality as Carnal Flower by EdP Frederic Malle is of similar quality and potency at a current cost of $340 for 100ml versus $590 for 100ml of Opardu ($198 for 17.5ml). Neither scent is inexpensive in relative terms (though both are so strong that one or two sprays should be more than enough for most wearers), but at least to my nose Carnal Flower is every bit as good as Opardu and maybe a hair better. As such, if one were in the market for this kind of white floral scent (which I tend to prefer smelling on a lady instead of wearing myself) it seems Carnal Flower is the better buy. Value aside, Opardu smells excellent and is well-deserving of its 4 star out of 5 rating.