Bouquet Ideale opens as a sweet, dusty Oriental woody-gourmandish blend with burnt sugar vanillic notes, balmy woods, something like cashmere wood, and a whiff of powdery notes (violet?) which are more sweet-talc than flowery, and finally a hint of fruity-candied notes with exotic spices (cinnamon, perhaps saffron too or something similar). Dusty, warm, cozy and refined, effortlessly pleasant. Like other users apparently, I also thought of some Arabian fragrances: here you get quite the exact same kind of woody-spicy-fruity-gourmand stuff, with that peculiar roasted-incensey feel. Here it’s just all a bit more “refined” (which means only less powerful and more tamed down), and it smells undoubtedly nice; but the price is ridiculous. Unless you’ve some really dirty money to spend quickly before the FBI catches you, just browse among Arabian Oud, Al-Rehab or Lattafa offerings, get one of those and apply it sparingly – same results, a third of the cost.
At first approach (for a couple of seconds) it seems us to be dealing with an usual boring vanilla, a sort of pale La Maison de la Vanille's clone (Vanille Noir du Mexique jumps on mind for instance). In a while anyway the resins (myrrh, aoud??), some amber, yummy spices (nutmeg, ginger??), powdery (almost creamy) woods and rich floral notes keep dancing their valzer. In particular the tobacco flower (and probably a touch of spicy tonka) elicit a vaguely chocolatey, kinda nutty and seasoned (pipe tobacco like) undertone (Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille and Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille jump effectively on mind but in a lighter and easier way) well combined with vanilla, coumarine, tulu balsam (may be guaiac wood) and dark musks. Probably some ylang-ylang seems well associated with ginger in order to provide a "craggy exotic spiciness" feel (probably the note of papyrus reinforces that "papery" and "hairy" effect while coumarine provides a sweetly herbal aromatic undertone). Anyway the Casamorati 1888 Bouquet Ideale's dry down is soooo seasoned, woodsy and spicy to conjure me more that vaguely the Piguet Casbah's visceral roundness. Anyway, along the far dry down the spiciness becomes silkier and I catch a sheer and subtle floral-woody spark in the wake. An interesting fragrance for all the lovers of this genre (I don't crave for it actually), a scent enclosing points in common with Ivory Route, Marquee and several others from the Join the Club line.
31st October, 2014 (last edited: 23rd February, 2015)
A vanilla of great sonorous depth – dark, rounded, bittersweet: I was captivated from the first sniff. A creation that demonstrates how the idea of vanilla is misused to describe unimaginative carnal activity when the real thing has such warm erotic folds.
Apart from the feel that one has just split open a moist pod, the undercurrent of pipe tobacco gives it a slightly brandied air and there is a lovely gooey coumarin-tonka note that sits perfectly. The spices are gauzy and subdued, initially giving the impression of the lightest dusting of something radiant like saffron rather than the nutmeg and cinnamon mentioned in the issued notes. A few hours in tones of sandalwood and split bamboo shade into the mix.
A thing of rare beauty with a few drawbacks (apart from the bankrupting Xerjoff pricing) – (i) the timidity of its projection at the beginning which improves considerably over time; (ii) it becomes a bit more of a familiar vanilla after the four hour mark.