This fragrance breaks my own rules – I avoid most rose fragrances and I strongly despise violet notes: In spite of that, I actually enjoy this violet / rose EDP. Usually rose notes over-power everything else in a fragrance for me; but the La Fille de Berlin rose comes across as restrained and sophisticated – more of a symbolic metallic rose than the kind of rose notes I am accustomed to finding in many of the usual rose offerings. This soapy rose IS strong enough to overpower the citrus and pepper notes, but having citrus and pepper overpowered is normal for me. The La Fille de Berlin metallic rose is one that I actually enjoy and am willing to wear. I'm excited that the violet note in La Fille de Berlin doesn’t disgust me as violet usually does. Here the violet note is responsible for providing that compelling metallic edge to the restrained rose accord. Technically this is a fragrance that I should hate, but I don’t... I've actually purchased it.
22nd February, 2015 (last edited: 25th April, 2015)
Serge Lutens has NEVER let me down, I am a huge fan of his fragrances. La Fille de Berlin is a delicious rose, pepper fragrance that I enjoy very much. The first spray is a bouquet of soft roses. The dry down is mixed spices and I can smell the rose in the back. The rose is not overpowering at all, which makes it suitable for men as well. It lasts a long time on my skin. I would wear it in cool weather at night. Beautiful!
A splendid Otto rose is at the heart of this composition. It is not dark but is is rich and intensive -no lightweight - albeit on the brighter side. It's main accompaniment is initially a slightly sharp acidic compinent, that is soon replaced a peppery spice note, a touch of darkness that blends in very well with the rose. At times other floral notes appear transiently, and towards the end green rose-stem undertones appear, but the rose always reigns supreme. Good quality ingredients are blended very well without losing structure; this is important as otherwise it might become a very monochromatic scent.
The whose concept is not particularly original but well executed. The performance is very good, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and over seven hours of longevity on my skin. Great for late spring and early summer. 3.75/5
Sort of interesting - it reminds me of a perfume that would have smelled classy in the 50s, cheap in the 80's, and like a weird throwback today.
It's got those 80's pump-hairspray aldehydes that really haven't aged well over a decent rose, lightly dewy and green, but with a rather cheap-smelling strawberry buzzing along on top with that hairspray smell. Given time, it gets lightly powdery, and later ends up on a nice but subtle sandalwood and patchouli base. Unfortunately, that regrettable strawberry never really goes away, and that hairspray note ends up as a sort of hot office printer smell that hovers way past its welcome.
I have a soft spot for new perfumes that toy with classic recipes, so La Fille De Berlin gets a neutral vote instead of a thumbs down, but I don't have much interest in wearing this more.
Genre: Floral Oriental
La Fille de Berlin is a rose-centered composition, and with two outstanding rose fragrances in his portfolio already, one might wonder what Serge Lutens needed with a third. Sa Majesté la Rose is a bright, photorealistic portrait of a damask rose, and Rose de Nuit is a sultry rose chypre that reflects classics like Beautiful and Knowing through a modernist mirror. La Fille de Berlin occupies a comfortable middle ground between the two. It is both sweeter and more complex than Sa Majesté la Rose, yet more buoyant and lighthearted – more diurnal, if you will – than Rose de Nuit.
La Fille de Berlin’s plummy top notes introduce an intensely fruity, liqueur-like rose accord of admirable depth and richness. The rose is supported by patchouli, mellow woods, and amber, with discernable accents of incense and black pepper. The juxtaposition of rose, pepper, and incense has an antecedents in Caron’s lovely Parfum Sacré, while the rose itself is reminiscent in its plush texture of Guerlain’s Nahéma. La Fille de Berlin is a less weighty composition than either of these predecessors, yet it need not blush at the comparison. (Pink as it is in its bottle!) It is a cheerful, yet elegant, fragrance, and its rare combination of liveliness and poise make it a fine candidate for everyday wear.