Eau de Mandarine Ambrée (2013)
by Hermès

It seems like Jean Claude Ellena has spent ages honing in on the perfect juicy citrus. Jour d'Hermès had fantastically bright, sweet, juicy topnotes but got caught up in a whirlwind of shampoo and fabric softener. But I think, with Eau de Mandarine Ambrée, he may have finally gotten everything just right.

The mandarin is so hyper-realistic that it's almost pop art, like smelling one of those "Cuties" mandarins, but rendered in such day-glo orange that it requires a slug of salt to keep it focused. If you're going to buy this for anything, buy it for the hours of juicy citrus - the amber is quiet enough that it's not worth sampling this as an amber perfume. That being said, the butterscotchy, nutty amber far from an afterthought - it's got a lot of complexity. It's just not the star of the show.

04^th February, 2015

The opening is actually a bitter, fresh, evocative, tasty mandarin, quite pleasant and "realistic", on a delicate amber/vanilla base and with a tiny fruity/peppery note. Green leafy feel around, with a slight salty/metallic note which will eventually come up more clearly later one. A bit static and monodimensional, but pleasant. Longevity is so short it's not even an issue - a blink of an eye, and it's gone, you're left a really subtle ambery-green-salty drydown.

5/10

30^th April, 2014

This is a warm and sweet smell. Suitable for a male or female wearer. The sweetness is not so strong as to be cloying however, as it is a natural smelling sweet. Citrus at first and as it dries down the amber is revealed and I begin to detect a woodsy smell.
The Good: Delivers the elements that the name promises in a pleasing way.
The Bad: Does not contain many other discernable elements than the name promises.
Overall: A great, subtle, approachable smell for citrus fans.

09^th April, 2014

Just as with Nicola69, this was love at first sniff. During the basenotes meet up in Chicago, I tried this for the first time in the Hermes boutique. Fantastic! Loved it on the card, decided it was "skin worthy", then decided it was FB worthy after all of the other attendees agave it a thumbs up.

The citrus is a bit sharp at first....let the juice dry down before you sniff. I know, I know, it's difficult to wait but trust me on this......it's worth the wait.

The passion fruit is not a note I amp up but this does not smell super "fruity" on my skin. No, not at all.

The dry down is a soft, warm amber....not boosey, like Tom Ford Amber Absolute. EdMA is softer, closer to the skin.

Just delightful!

31^st October, 2013

acceptable fruit goes south

Starts with a crisp, realistic mandarine orange note. Pleasant.

There may be passion fruit lurking underneath but I can't detect it.

At this point the scent is not sweet and is refreshing and light.

Then the amber kicks in. Not heavy or cloying, but odd. Sometimes a bit metallic, other times sort of toasted-wheat, like whole wheat cereal left soaking in milk for too long. Blah.

Pros: nice orange notes
Cons: odd amber"

22^nd October, 2013

Frankly spoken: love at first sniff. I was looking for a mandarine scent that would not disappear as quickly as most citrus scents do on me. Luckily, my favourite perfume store had just got Mandarine Ambrée. When you spray it on, there is a burst of mandarine in the beginning, delicate and not artificial, but fresh and appetizing instead. I cannot really detect the passion fruit, but the amber shows up rather soon, which rounds it up and is really good for the staying power. It is not sugary either, it smells very sophisticated. I have to admit that I love most of Mr Ellena's creations. Perhaps this is not his greatest masterpiece, yet it has an excellent sillage for a cologne and it is something that brightens up your spirits. Thumbs up. Wonderful!

04^th May, 2013