Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle (2013)
by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

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Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle information

Year of Launch2013
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 97 votes)

People and companies

HouseEditions de Parfums Frederic Malle
PerfumerBruno Jovanovic
Parent CompanyEstee Lauder Companies

About Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle is a shared / unisex perfume by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. The scent was launched in 2013 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Bruno Jovanovic

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle fragrance notes

Reviews of Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle

“All that one has lost returns... That which overflows is immediately refilled, be it in another plate and to satisfy other appetites, like one of those tiered cakes in which the bottom layer is a flaky crust which crumbles between the teeth, and the center is a pile of light biscuits...In this same way this polysemic cake...And one of the clevernesses of the story is it’s grinding and rolling together of ancient history and modernity, sexuality and eroticism, privation and luxury, leavened dough and unleavened dough, urgent, friable, a light bread but heavy with future meaning....” –Hélène Cixous


My entree into contemporary perfumery was an immediate attraction to some of the oddities that are produced under the auspices of the category of gourmands. Certainly the major arcana of these scents are ruled by Angel, unparalleled in how well it works despite the improbability of the deliciousness of honey-vanilla-cocoa giving way to a sour patchouli and musk that’s seriously off yet powerfully addictive to some noses. Other obvious gourmand powerhouses: Lutens, some from By Kilian, Lolita Lempicka, Annick Goutal’s maple-curry Sables.

When Frederic Malle brought on Bruno Jovanovic to pay homage to the Belgian brilliance of Dries van Noten in a perfume, Jovanovic aimed for an internalization of the guiding principles of the house. Dries van Noten’s fashion designs rework archetypes with a cerebral acumen that can be mistaken as casual at a glance. The garments and ethos are suffused with extravagant floral designs in luxurious textiles, recollections of uniformed boys at school, bursts of colorful intensity. Models on their runways appear dapper and daft, eccentric for sure but uncompromising in elegance.

Dries van Noten par Frederic Malle, 2013, is sandalwood dressed in finery possessing a full-mouthed edibility. Trim, tailored notes are punctuated by flounces of heavy doses that hold onto skin for hours. Saffron infused rice is my first impression, as if it were a cake, bite-sized, amidst a tasting menu with spiced biscuits and creamy woods like yogurt covered pretzels. These morsels behave magically like those petit fours that Alice consumed to grow gargantuan. DvNpFM is one of those scents that intensifies on my skin, more effusive a couple of hours in than at it’s start. The question this work posits isn’t ‘why would I want to smell like food?’ but rather a curiosity in what happens when notes are assembled from flowers and flours, when an elaborate feast, an intricate tapestry, and a place and time (Antwerp, dessert course) are evoked.

It’s not that I don’t smell what people mean when they say this conjures cinnamon spiked sugar cookies. Yes, all the constitutive elements of such a thing are present, but if that was the perfume’s sum total I would be bored. Instead hints of wood polish and fur, a trace of smoke from a clove cigarette, and similarly louche suggestions run the length of the scent. It’s not clear to me what forms the doughy rubber sensibility at DvNpFM’s center, but it’s seductive and profane.

Like good gourmands do, this fragrance admits to willful cannibalism. Saturn’s son’s birthday wish—blowing out candles on a cake—is to be devoured by his father just as Goya fantasized. The channels between nose and mouth are celebrated rather than distanced. Oral fixations, the incorporation of the milky good breast, opting to eat in or eat out: Dries van Noten shares its special menu items, saffron gilding, jasmine cream, Hannibal’s connoisseurship. Pretty as a picture. Good enough to eat.

Musk and vanilla makes an awesome digestif. Here it’s the olfactory equivalent of an amorous amaro or an Amantillado sherry; trust in its sweetness is sorely misplaced; heady, heavy, a bit much, easily autumnal, filling, intoxicating.

As it’s known to do, the vanillic base outlasts all the other revelers. The contours of this scene is traced in fragile caramel remnants. A monster has been sated. It’s designer waistcoat puffed open. Crumbs along its lips.
05th October, 2018
This is a statement piece of a fragrance, with longevity and fineness aplenty. I have worn this every day at times (suitable for office) and also gone through times where I wear it when I want someone to slightly notice I am wearing something luscious. It's not overwrought. It has everything I like about my grandfather wearing cologne -- masculine, strong, enduring, and not too fussy or prim.
14th August, 2017
So, that sweetened evaporated milk note from Angel mixed with very artificial-smelling chocolate musk. There's an iris richness in the background, but it smells more weird than luxurious, and it's all quite salty. Add to that a dollop of isobutavan, that chemical that's usually mixed with cheap vanilla to give it hints of smoky nuts and creme soda. Paired up against Van Noten's backdrop, it just adds to the weirdness, like disembodied nutty smoke over that odd musky milk. Oh, and the whole thing kind of also smells like molten plastic.

So there. I hated this every time I smelled it for years before finally trying it on. And now I'm just confused. Giving it a few full wears, I no longer dislike it for its weirdness, but I still dislike it for using its weirdness in such a thinly transparent attempt at being "important art." This is trying so hard to be a museum piece that it's not fun or warm and the only thing it really evokes is a sense of its own self-importance. In all, I can't down-vote a perfume for being too artsy, especially after down-voting literally hundreds of perfumes for NOT being artsy enough, so I'm voting thumbs up. But I don't think I'm going to wear this very much now that I've finished writing my review...
11th July, 2017
How gorgeous!

Citrus, pear, vanilla, balm, spices. Love at first sniff! Longevity is great. Sillage is average. I need a full bottle already!
29th April, 2017
Vanilla pods and saffron steeped in milk, wafer biscuits, rice pudding, eggnog, zabaglione - all these could be positive associations, especially for lovers of lactonic gourmands. It's possible that some people might even want to actually smell like one of the above custardy confections (although I'm not one of them).
Much less do I want my wrists smelling of a baby's breath when it's just finished breastfeeding.

DVN does have an accord of skin at times - there's saffron and a faint rubbery note in common with L'AP Skin On Skin and a furriness that's also present in Dzing! These are, once more, positive associations.

But then there it is again - milk-sweet babybreath, except this time the baby's on the changing mat with a damp diaper.

I'll be the one in the shower.
M.Malle, you disappoint me.
26th April, 2017
Galanthus Show all reviews
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Skins in Rotterdam offered me a sample of Dries van Noten par Frederic Malle. I didn't like it at all, reminds me too much of beer since i am not a huge fan of it i wouldn't buy a fragrance that smells that way. I am quite sure that more people will agree with me on this one. Pretty expensive niche fragrance from Dries van Noten glad that i only got a sample of it. Because smelling like beer is IMHO not so sexy.
24th February, 2017

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