Masculine, spicy and borderline sweaty. Yikes! Monsieur Roja, what's up with that? It smells like the odorous armpits of the playground bully who caught you in a headlock all those years ago! Fetish, huh? Think about it..
I'm exaggerating, of course. It's not all that unpleasant to my nose but it borrows heavily from the 'macho' colognes of the last century with its herbal-spicy-leathery facets. Like something Charles Bronson would wear before he goes about his day breaking heads and kicking arses.
If that particular image appeals to you, be my guest and get yourself a bottle. But don't go looking for me when that credit card bill shows up in your mailbox.
Fetish pour Homme (Parfum) opens with a dash of brief bergamot and lime slightly tart citrus before quickly transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart an emerging cardamom spiced slightly smoky, woody incense-like accord takes command with hints of ginger joining the remaining lime citrus in support. As the composition slowly moves further into its heart, the woody incense gradually recedes as vetiver spiked leather slowly takes over as star. During the late dry-down the vetiver spiked leather remains, now joined by slightly powdery vanilla and oakmoss in the base through the finish. Projection is excellent and longevity outstanding at over 15 hours on skin.
Fetish pour Homme (Parfum) is frequently compared by many to Puredistance M. The vetiver and leather found in the late heart section certainly does have some major similarities to M, coupled with the two additionally sharing a similar spicy structure. That said, those calling Fetish pour Homme (Parfum) pretty much the same composition as M do both a disservice. The key difference (though far from the only one) is Fetish pour Homme (Parfum) features a very strong woody radiant incense-like accord that really is the focal part of the composition for a good portion of its development. So strong was the woody incense in the heart that I really would classify Fetish pour Homme (Parfum) more as a woody composition than the leather most focus on. While M is a more pure spiced vetiver leather play, Fetish pour Homme (Parfum) has a lot more going on as it transitions from citrus to woods to leather to slightly powdery vanilla with each transition seamless. As with the other Roja Dove compositions I have sampled so far, ingredient quality is superb. Also, just like the other Roja Dove compositions the selling price is anything *but* superb. That said, in the case of Fetish pour Homme (Parfum) the quality of the materials and the outstanding end result of the perfumer's skilled execution makes me want to forget about the relatively high cost per bottle and just "bite the bullet" and acquire some of this stuff because it gets pretty addictive, fast. The bottom line is the $480 per 50ml bottle Fetish pour Homme (Parfum) is much more than a duplicate of the great Puredistance M, both proving near equally worthy of owning, earning it an "outstanding" 4 to 4.5 stars out of 5 and a strong buy recommendation if one can afford its admittedly lofty price.
A explosion of spicy leather with lime is what I'm getting on first application. Oakmoss with floral hints as well as cinnamon also start to bloom from within the main spicy leather and lime accord.
This scent is a lot like Puredistance M, it has the same spicy DNA but with a big dose of lime in the mix.
A very good spicy leather with a twist of lime.
Well, Roja Dove Fetish Pour Homme is an absolute winner in my top favorite list of new generation spicy leather concoctions. I'm pleased to have the opportunity to test on skin this absolutely gorgeous oriental-spicy leather and I have to say this fragrance represents at moment one of the best, more modernly appealing interpretations of leather I've recently experienced as performed by the the guru of the modern perfumery Roja Dove. I'm intrigued by the beauty of this fragrance, namely a sort of rich, swirling, warm, supremely luxurious, velvety, boozy, rounded, animalic and almost edible wet leather which grabs you for throath and senses draging the smeller in to a deep dark hole of pleasure, soft lounge music, leather sofà, fine cognac and smooth tobacco. I detect by soon unquestionably the Colin Maillard's reference to the classic Moschino Pour Homme (another respectful classic "complicated" spicy leather) even if the aroma which effectively jumps furiously on mind is the Puredistance M's one (and in part- with all the differences in terms of quality- also Cacharel Nemo, Ferre In the mood for love Man and Clive Christian C For Men tickle your senses with their velvety/spicy and fruity leather approach- I detect for instance common elements as bergamot-rose-jasmine-tonka-amber-woods-hints of leather-spices). I'd not forget the reference to Nasomatto Pardon which jumps minimally in mind for a bunch of nuances (despite it's basically a different beast). Anyway M, Moschino and C seem to swirl on my mind (and under my nose) as for an ideal enchanting olfactory encounter even if (apart the plain Moschino's leather touch) in Fetish Pour Homme the leather seems finally more unquestionable while the animalic support from musks, castoreum, ambergris and God knows what else appears narcotic and super boozy/spicy. Fetish Pour Homme starts with a luxurious valzer of lime/bergamot and sparkling sweet pungent spices (huge pepper, cardamom, cinnamon orange, probably cloves and nutmeg) immediately followed by a magically appointed touch of talky fig (absolutely detectable, powdery and smooth). In this phase Moschino Pour Homme is there as a lingering ghost for sure. But the magic is still upcoming since a wonderful twist of boozy notes and a carnal castoreum/oakmoss/ambergris/labdanum accord is ready to assault your senses as surrounded by edible balmy creaminess, may be sandalwood and immediately followed by an high quality final leathery velvet (still spicy, ambery, lemony/orangy, dusty and cozy/exotic). You will ideally be as drinking a super aged whisky on a leather coach listening to a superb music in to a luxurious ambience. Immensely appealing, spicy aromatic and finally almost "to be eaten over your skin" as a delicious cake (due to its enormous but extremely well modulated level of fair increasing animalism). Nothing better of Fetish Pour Homme whether your intent is to spend a night as protagonist in to a cozy metropolitan Gentlemen club of extreme class and refinement. I frankly get also a sort of deeply spicy orientalism a la Idol de Lubin, included a plain burnt sugar effect. Royal, voluptuous, accidious and extremely licentious. No more to add.
30th May, 2014 (last edited: 13th September, 2015)
The opening is really beautiful, unexpectedly and significantly classic: a renovated, enhanced, modern fougère. Especially in the first minutes it smells basically like a more aerial, more light Moschino Pour Homme, less powerful, with a more contemporary/synthetic touch. The castoreum note is almost a joke, I mean it's really light and restrained, but it's there, and together with the animalic/leather base, represents the "fougère heart" of this scent. The rest is equally classic, an "eau de cologne" texture of flowers, delicate and aromatic woods (cashmeran?), bergamot, a balsamic-mossy side. It eventually emerges a vetiver heart, on a mellow, dusty amber base. Leathery (soft) and ambery drydown, dusty and sophisticated. Pretty much it. It all sounds good and clear, the materials are better than average, what I enjoy the most is the touch of incense, smoky modernity, a "chic", rarified contemporaneity, cozy and sophisticated at the same time. But overall, as I said, I can not think of many'80s/'90s fougères, the more elegant ones, like Bugatti pour homme. And more broadly, to classic masculine perfumery textures. So where's the big deal here? I don't know honestly, but it somehow manages to smell great, contemporary and quite distinctive, although a bit delicate (or perhaps that's the key?). Somehow I like this, and if it had a decent price - I mean the price it is actually worth, which is average/bottom niche - it would have ended in my wish list. The actual price is beyond surreal.