A explosion of spicy leather with lime is what I'm getting on first application. Oakmoss with floral hints as well as cinnamon also start to bloom from within the main spicy leather and lime accord.
This scent is a lot like Puredistance M, it has the same spicy DNA but with a big dose of lime in the mix.
A very good spicy leather with a twist of lime.
Well, Roja Dove Fetish Pour Homme is an absolute winner in my top favorite list of new generation spicy leather concoctions. I'm pleased to have the opportunity to test on skin this absolutely gorgeous oriental-spicy leather and I have to say this fragrance represents at moment one of the best, more modernly appealing interpretations of leather I've recently experienced as performed by the the guru of the modern perfumery Roja Dove. I'm intrigued by the beauty of this fragrance, namely a sort of rich, swirling, warm, supremely luxurious, velvety, boozy, rounded, animalic and almost edible wet leather which grabs you for throath and senses draging the smeller in to a deep dark hole of pleasure, soft lounge music, leather sofà, fine cognac and smooth tobacco. I detect by soon unquestionably the Colin Maillard's reference to the classic Moschino Pour Homme (another respectful classic "complicated" spicy leather) even if the aroma which effectively jumps furiously on mind is the Puredistance M's one (and in part- with all the differences in terms of quality- also Cacharel Nemo, Ferre In the mood for love Man and Clive Christian C For Men tickle your senses with their velvety/spicy and fruity leather approach- I detect for instance common elements as bergamot-rose-jasmine-tonka-amber-woods-hints of leather-spices). I'd not forget the reference to Nasomatto Pardon which jumps minimally in mind for a bunch of nuances (despite it's basically a different beast). Anyway M, Moschino and C seem to swirl on my mind (and under my nose) as for an ideal enchanting olfactory encounter even if (apart the plain Moschino's leather touch) in Fetish Pour Homme the leather seems finally more unquestionable while the animalic support from musks, castoreum, ambergris and God knows what else appears narcotic and super boozy/spicy. Fetish Pour Homme starts with a luxurious valzer of lime/bergamot and sparkling sweet pungent spices (huge pepper, cardamom, cinnamon orange, probably cloves and nutmeg) immediately followed by a magically appointed touch of talky fig (absolutely detectable, powdery and smooth). In this phase Moschino Pour Homme is there as a lingering ghost for sure. But the magic is still upcoming since a wonderful twist of boozy notes and a carnal castoreum/oakmoss/ambergris/labdanum accord is ready to assault your senses as surrounded by edible balmy creaminess, may be sandalwood and immediately followed by an high quality final leathery velvet (still spicy, ambery, lemony/orangy, dusty and cozy/exotic). You will ideally be as drinking a super aged whisky on a leather coach listening to a superb music in to a luxurious ambience. Immensely appealing, spicy aromatic and finally almost "to be eaten over your skin" as a delicious cake (due to its enormous but extremely well modulated level of fair increasing animalism). Nothing better of Fetish Pour Homme whether your intent is to spend a night as protagonist in to a cozy metropolitan Gentlemen club of extreme class and refinement. I frankly get also a sort of deeply spicy orientalism a la Idol de Lubin, included a plain burnt sugar effect. Royal, voluptuous, accidious and extremely licentious. No more to add.
30th May, 2014 (last edited: 13th September, 2015)
The opening is really beautiful, unexpectedly and significantly classic: a renovated, enhanced, modern fougère. Especially in the first minutes it smells basically like a more aerial, more light Moschino Pour Homme, less powerful, with a more contemporary/synthetic touch. The castoreum note is almost a joke, I mean it's really light and restrained, but it's there, and together with the animalic/leather base, represents the "fougère heart" of this scent. The rest is equally classic, an "eau de cologne" texture of flowers, delicate and aromatic woods (cashmeran?), bergamot, a balsamic-mossy side. It eventually emerges a vetiver heart, on a mellow, dusty amber base. Leathery (soft) and ambery drydown, dusty and sophisticated. Pretty much it. It all sounds good and clear, the materials are better than average, what I enjoy the most is the touch of incense, smoky modernity, a "chic", rarified contemporaneity, cozy and sophisticated at the same time. But overall, as I said, I can not think of many'80s/'90s fougères, the more elegant ones, like Bugatti pour homme. And more broadly, to classic masculine perfumery textures. So where's the big deal here? I don't know honestly, but it somehow manages to smell great, contemporary and quite distinctive, although a bit delicate (or perhaps that's the key?). Somehow I like this, and if it had a decent price - I mean the price it is actually worth, which is average/bottom niche - it would have ended in my wish list. The actual price is beyond surreal.
A solid, spicy chypre with extreme tenacity and a solid working knowledge of perfume's big fragrances.
Fetish starts with a massive citrus: predominantly lime with a distinct peppery spin on it. The chypre bitterness is present immediately, carried here by cypress notes and spices more than oakmoss alone, and there's a faint soapiness squeaking through that's common with these kinds of top notes. A bulky castoreum, sprinkled with cinnamon, hums along underneath, and I get a gourmand texture that I believe might be patchouli. It's massive scent, with a lot of individual components at work, yet oddly, I'm not getting that much leather from it—or at least not as much as I expected.
It settles into a scratchy cardamom musk over bronzed resins that come across as a touch candied, yet the tart, bitter notes remain as a reminder of the citric opening as it begins to fade. The whole thing winds down to a very tasteful vanilla musk that manages to sidestep predictability through the residual bitterness that reads as bit mentholated here.
This has a wide profile: it's a very loud and prominent composition which, like its infamous sibling M, is extremely tenacious. And it's the inevitable comparison of the two that clarifies where Fetish PH stands for me. I've always found M to be more futuristic than it seems—very clinical in its components, as though it were assembled by surgeons on the perspex surfaces of some floating laboratory lit by clinical fluorescence. Fetish, however, offers more of a history: it's contemporary and relevant, yet it looks back along perfume's past trajectory for its touchstones, finding them in the powerhouses of the last three decades.
For me, M keeps the gold medal out of the two, but that's mainly because Fetish is playing a deck that I'm personally not that drawn to. There are several notes in this that don't sit right with me, but they sit perfectly within the composition itself, and certainly within its genre. Objectively speaking, it's an impressive scent in its complexity, although it's perhaps a tad too shouty; but subjectively, it's not quite my cup of tea.
Pros: Excellent blend with enough nuance to elevate it above other in the genre.
Cons: Its high volume seems out of sync with its nature."