The main YSL Noble Leather's note in my opinion? Saffron (actually simil saffron)..than woods.....than leather, finally dry nutty fruits and vulgar amber/vanilla. Promising opening (in the synthetic selection of course), you catch soon a velvety syrupy vaguely boozy leather combined with resins and fruits (probably dry berries from the forest). In this fruity-syrupy-leathery phase ( the decent part of the aroma) I see the Tuscan Leather's reference. Along the trip anyway saffron, further spices and woods (Iso E Super) start jumping up embracing the elements (as supported by vanillin and synthetic "tonkinian/musky" ambroxan) in a final twist conjuring me (for several sides) aromas a la Cacharel Nemo (this is a good news) and One Million/Ultraviolet Man (this is a far less good news). In this phase more than leather I catch "nutty plastic" and an artificial idea of saffron. Anyway I find the deep late dry down such a banal spicy vanillic-woody "modernly appealing" concoction a la Baldessarini Ambre (not so sweet and far more woody) more than a la Tuscan Leather. I'm a YSL fan but it is not for me, sorry.
10th November, 2014 (last edited: 07th January, 2015)
While I can't rank the fruity-leather theme among my preferences when it comes to leather fragrances, I can't say Noble Leather is a bad one. Things change a little bit though, when I try to contextualize this composition.
This fragrance was delivered by one of the most relevant houses in perfume history. After pillars such as Kouros, Opium, Cinema, Nu, Rive Gauche, Y and Jazz (just to name a very few), Noble Leather feels sort of like a calculated attempt to catch certain targets.
To me it smells like norlimbanol (or any other bombastic woody amber) + bits of Tuscan Leather (the fruity / leathery aspect) + some of the dried fruits accord also found in some Lutens + amber-patch. That's it. Not completely bad but far from being as relevant as most of the aforementioned gems by this amazing house.
On top of that, it's offensively priced.
Excellent soft leather & dried fruit accord
At first smell, it is very reminiscent of Tuscan Leather.
But a few moment later it's own identify emerges in full bloom.
A soft leather sweetened with a dried fruit accord and spiced with saffron.
In. Perfect. Proportion.
Because its dried fruit, it's not a fructose intense like fresh fruits.
And because it's a dried fruit accord, it's not fruity smelling either.
It you've ever had fresh dried fruits then you're aware of now it's fruity and sweet but not intensely fruity and richly sweet like fresh fruit.
A lot of you at this point are probably wondering if it's similar to the Serge Lutens dried fruit accord.
No it's different. Serge's accord is more of a compote. Stewed dried fruits where the fructose is escalated. Over here the fructose is muted.
The saffron accord smells solid. Like a concentrate of saffron.
There's a milk tea we prepare over here that is emphasized with saffron.
Some people add strands of saffron to the boiling tea or while it steeps.
I like to drop a few strands into a 20ml cup of boiling water then let it infuse for a few minutes. You end up with very concentrated saffron water. But because you add it to liters of tea it's not bitter.
The saffron in Noble Leather is like this. Robust and concentrated but perfectly balanced with the dried fruit accord.
Highly reccomdned if Tuscan Leather , Clive Christian C & Cuir Ottoman appeal to you.