Memoirs of a Trespasser is a very earthy/woody/smoky vanilla and myrrh. At first spray I smelled vanilla right away. Not the usual vanilla cake mix vanilla, but a smoky/woody vanilla. As it dried down I smelled myrrh which I love and a mix of wood. Very nice fragrance that I will treasure.
Memoirs of a Trespasser opens with a really pleasant, radiant, dusty and sweetish accord of amber and incense with vanilla, perhaps aniseed or licorice, and an odd but comfy and mellow breeze of something like sugar – that same kind of dry, dusty and silky sweetness - on a darker base with a tiny animalic hint, almost unperceivable but providing a nice dark shade on the base (it may also be some benzoin, or a dark and dry wood, or also simply a darker note of ambrette). A synthetic and quite simple texture as it seems typical in US contemporary perfumery these days, but nice and pleasant, versatile and inoffensive, quite safer than it may appear – it's basically a woody-amber scent dry and sweet with a really aromatic breeze ranging from green to grey. Not amazing but nice enough to wear, and with also a remarkable persistence.
It dries down to a nice woody vanilla, but you have to wade through a bunch of odd notes to get there, and at the end of the day, I am not sure that the payoff is good enough. It opens on a weird pairing of what seems to be an intensely sweet candy note, like candyfloss, the bitter rind of either a grapefruit or an orange, and raw wood. There is also a musky feel to it, from the ambrette seeds, which combines with the raw plank of wood smell to conjure up a sort of ghost note of vetiver (to my nose, at least). The first half of this, therefore, smells like musky, raw woods, with a candied grapefruit rind note. I don't get any vanilla.
Halfway through, there is a truly skanky moment, like smelling a spot on your arm that someone has licked. It is still a predominantly woodsy smell, but there is now a flat, stale note like dried saliva. Not enjoyable, not even to a lover of animalics like me. Also, the ambrette seeds add not only muskiness but also a note of alcohol, like grappa, which I also noticed in Chanel No. 18, where it used to great effect when paired with rose and iris. But here, the high-pitched whirl of alcohol combines with the raw woods to create a type of wood rubbing solvent smell.
The vanilla, once you finally get to it, is nice but quite synthetic in feel. It is quite sheer and diaphanous a vanilla, not heavy or creamy. People describe this one as a smoky vanilla, but I would describe it more as woodsy or boise vanilla. I know it is very popular around here, but I neither like nor understand it. To me, this is not a proper vanilla.
On the initial spray I was not such a big fan. Got a slight skankiness the first 5 minutes. After that the fragrance morphed into a great gourmand. A nice woody vanilla which is very unique. 8.5/10
Wow this is gorgeous and complex!
On first application to my skin I'm getting a wonderful smoky woods and dried vanilla. And I have to say it smells absolutely great.
Shortly after a melody of different resins, amber, spices interact with the main smoky vanilla and woods. This slightly changes the smell so every-time you take a sniff your picking up something new.
As it dries down you can smell a resinous Mryhh note mixing in with the dried vanilla. And even at this stage you will be picking up different nuances to the scent.
I have to say I'm so impressed with this wonderful fragrance that I will be buying a full bottle.
Nine out of Ten.