Lillipur opens with vermouth-like transparent wormwood with hints of moderately hot spicy pepper. As the composition transitions to its early heart the wormwood vacates, replaced by a slightly bitter star anise that melds with a short-lived natural lemon and cedar tandem that quickly subsides to reveal the underlying synthetic blond wood accord from the base that gains intensity considerably as time passes though the fragrance's mid-section. During the late dry-down the synthetic blond woods diminish considerably, allowing the lemon and cedar to make a reappearance, now with subtle patchouli and dry tobacco support. This new lineup slowly gives way very late to slightly powdery, relatively dry benzoin-laced amber through the finish. Projection is slightly above average and longevity very good to excellent at just shy of 12 hours on skin.
I first saw the official note list to Lillipur and decided to just bite the bullet and blind buy a bottle at its relatively reasonable price point. Now having worn the composition on skin several times, I may have been a bit too quick on the draw. The vast majority of the composition is quite pleasant and right up my alley... Notes like natural smelling lemon, cedar, dry tobacco leaf and slightly hot pepper are just the kind of ingredients I look for. Wormwood is a risky ingredient for me as my skin frequently doesn't mesh with it, but here it comes off as very vermouth-like and smells great albeit extremely short-lived. So, what is the problem with Lillipur? Maybe "problematic" is a more apt descriptor of the synthetic blond woody accord in the base that dominates large portions of the key mid-section's development. I am highly confident that the accord is derived from my arch-nemesis, Cashmeran. Some love the stuff, but for me it comes off smelling synthetic and overpoweringly strong. For all I know there could be quite a few more ingredients in Lillipur that I never detected despite my best efforts due to the Cashmeran concealing them under its ever-encompassing potency. When the blond woods finally recede there really is a great composition waiting to be found in the incredible smelling late dry-down. Getting there is the challenge, however, and each individual will have to decide whether it is worth it. For me, the composition is just "good enough" to remain in my collection, but I am afraid it won't be used often. The bottom line is the $145 per 100ml bottle Lillipur has a reasonable price point per milliliter and an impressive list of ingredients, but the synthetic blond woods are just a bit too much, keeping the overall score to a "good" to "very good" 3 to 3.5 stars out of 5. Recommended to those that either enjoy Cashmeran or are not bothered by it as there really is an excellent fragrance underneath the stuff. That said, if you are sensitive to the ingredient, lookout!
I've tested 5 of their fragrances and they do have one thing in common. the bottles are pretty damn ugly! xD
This fragrance opens up with semi sweet, creamy woody smell mixed with soft spices in the background.
The "Cashmere Wood" note doesn't smell something new or unique. it's a soft woody note that kind of smells like sandalwood. very smooth woody smell.
In the mid I'm getting a little stronger sweetness but still creamy with stronger woods and now very soft floral aroma in the background. it's a very pleasant smell and perfectly balanced for both genders. creamy sweetness and soft floral notes for women and woods plus soft spices for men!
In the base unfortunately the woody smell almost disappears and you will left with a simple creamy sweetness and very smooth floral notes.
The note breakdown looks very interesting but the scent is much simpler than how it looks.
Projection is moderate and longevity is around 10 hours on the skin.
I like it but there is nothing exiting about it because I've smelled this before many times.
Lillipur takes the name of the ancient mythical Nepal's capital of the spirituality (probably Patan nowadays, located at south of Katmandu) and it is aimed to represent the mystical fire of the soul and and deep, profound spiritual knowledge of the continuosly unfolding human soul. This Tiziana Terenzi's fragrance, as performed by the talented Mr. Paolo Terenzi, is enveloping and penetrating, namely a resinous mélange of dense (almost sticky) elements as forest resins, amber, honey, galbanum, star anice, frankincense, benzoin and sticky sweet spices all combined in order to surround your senses teleporting the soul in to a spiritual oriental ambience full of temples and monasteries equipped with huge brazers burning resins and incenses in order to support and aid the meditation. A wonderful combination of tonka and tobacco rounds the incensey/creamy aroma with an irresistible seasoned flavour a la Piguet Casbah (which is in a similar way spicy/incensey/resinous/aromatic and tobacco flavoured), turning the aroma out in an almost tasty way (involving your palate with its carnal attractiveness). Hints of patchouli and woods provide balance and support the spices which are yummy and prickly throughout, a combination of aromatic herbs and star anise affords a touch of balsamic vibe while some floral patterns imprint a sophisticated undertone making aureate and subtle the resinous tornado (providing a touch of modernity and glamour in a game of olfactory contrasts). The latter holds on ambery, steamy, spiritual and spicy/incensey till the end, unveiling finally hints of muskiness and woodiness with burnt resins undertones. Unisex. As usual for the brand longevity and projection are great and the raw materials quality is extreme.
09th February, 2014 (last edited: 11th February, 2014)