Maremma opens with a sweet, powdery accord of ylang's creaminess, white musks, the round, waxy lipstick note of orris root, a tiny and bright fruity touch, and a slight undertone of mossy-earthy notes of patchouli and cocoa beans, quite discreet and subtly silky. Not far from Parfum d'Empire's Equistrius, just less dark, less earthy/hay, and without the leather notes. A breezy and lively floral accord slowly emerges brightening and enlightening the scent, which progressively "opens" losing a bit of dense powdery dustiness, and becoming more aerial, fruity-floral, also letting a discreet, cozy base note of aromatic, resinous amber emerge with more clarity, finally disclosing a really delicate and impalpable suede note. The drydown is equally cozy, elegant and pleasant, more on the talcum side, still on the same floral-mossy-powdery global path. Not the most original around, but a well-made, enjoyable, relaxed, elegant and versatile fragrance for sure.
I enjoyed discovering this fragrance. It arouses my interest and it's unlike anything else that I have tried. I looked at the notes before I tried it and I wasn't sure that I would like it at all, but it just goes to show.......never judge a fragrance by it's cover. So to speak.
Maremma opens with a bruised fruit accord, which may actually be more to do with the flowers (ylang for example) than fruit. It doesn't smell like blackcurrant (a listed note) at all to me. It doesn't smell at all floral either. It has a bruised fruit peachy papaya type accord. I'm still not sure of the meaning of this opening accord in this fragrance. It is a very dominant accord, and clearly important. But anyway it is transformed when it is joined by soflty balsamic notes coming up from the rear. When the star of the show appears you will know all about it! A dry woody accord takes over. It is a bit like cedar but more deeply pitched, as if aged, matured. It is oak. It smells like it should, powerful, strong, stalwart. Also important to this woody accord is a dry woody Iris. This fabulous woody accord is the heart of this fragrance. On paper there is a very pronouned varnish note like mastic or shellac, and also pepper, but this is not apparent on skin, not on my skin anyway. On skin it is softer while still very suggestive of strength.
Little accords and pairings come and go. One time there was a little passing accord quite well into the development which reminded me of Habit Rouge, and another was reminiscent of Laboratorio Olfattivo Cozumel, but in the end Maremma is very much it's own creature. The heart of wood continues till it is rounded out and softened by the balsamic amber notes.
Maremma intrigues me greatly. I do love the woody heart of this fragrance, but overall it is just too complex and unfathomable for me.
It's a personal neutral for me but I strongly recommend that you try this fascinating fragrance.
Maremma is a carnal fruity/floral with woody, dirty (ambery/animalic, spicy, resinous, dissonant) and leathery accents aimed to reproduce on the olfactory sphere the ambience of the wonderful italian region of Toscana (the Maremma Toscana) with all its patrimony of sweet waving hills, pock-marks, country houses and horses. Some of my friends here on Basenotes know well I don't particularly crave for a stout fruity presence in a fragrance recipe (in particular whether the fruity notes are mellow or overly sweet) so Maremma (particularly fruity under my humble nose, because of a sort of bubble-gum sweet candied intensity overstating the unfortunately submissed jasmine/rose accord) does not strike my senses as well as the others scents of the Tiziana Terenzi's line. The black currant/ylang-ylang/resins/spices plummy-gummy type of accord is too powerful for my full pleasure indeed (chewing-gum type with its sugary dirty, resinous and minty/sweet undertone). Have anyway to say that I appreciate (especially at the beginning) the way the aroma appears immediately (after an highly aromatic introduction with a beloved dominant angelica joined with gassy cumin) so bitter/sweet, dissonant and wild with its animalic cistus labdanum/amber/honey/cumin/oudh/cinnamon accord so beastly and enveloping. The final candied/ambery/suede type of dry down could be labelled as a sort of niche reply to a market bomb as One Million (in a less synthetic, probably more minty/aromatic and balanced way for sure- the latter shares with Maremma the common elements of white woods, patchouli, rose, fruity accents, leather, sweet spices, probably honey, amber and minty aromatic notes). Frankly I don't detect the cocoa touch. The fragrance could be worn by either men and women but is leaning over the masculine side in my humble opinion. Not my cup of tea but something appealing to the younger crowd (aiming to be glamour) for sure. Great projection and longevity.
10th February, 2014 (last edited: 28th May, 2014)