The opening of XIX March is lively, greenish-woody-floral, slightly creamy thanks to sandalwood and white flowers (among which jasmine above all), with fresh and zesty head notes of citrus and neroli. The green accord is well played around a refreshing minty note, one of the nicest I've ever encountered so far: it's crunchy, sour, balsamic, leafy and compelling - no "Colgate effect", in short. XIX March is one of those "botanical" scents rich in vibrant notes smelling of leaves, branches and wood trunks, rich of "spring" nuances and graceful colours. Yet it's not conventional, as it bears an unusual bold spicy-herbal accord with nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, and a range of "culinary" aromatic herbs. A proper Mediterranean perfume indeed. The interplay between floral notes and woods is clever and nice, as it's quite evocative of flowers hiding among trees, so you smell more the "echo" of flowers than the "inner" of them (as in many other floral scents). It's like sitting in a house garden in the countryside waiting for lunch, the smell and whiffs of trees and flowers mix with spices and herbs from the kitchen. The vetiver note emerges after a while, quickly becoming the prominent character of the drydown. The bad side of this scent is that despite being an "extrait de parfum", its longevity is - to me, unacceptably - short and light, nothing more than a normal EDT. Apart from this, a nice scent from a respectable brand.
Another interesting fragrance straight from this great brand. Over the sample box I read that the juice is appointed in order to celebrate the Focarina di San Giuseppe, namely the night between 18 and 19 March when is a religious tradition to build a large bonfire ("la focarina") in order to burn up the left over twigs and brushes from winter and make room for the rebirth of spring: the air is filled with intense smells, at once new and nevertheless ancient. The aroma itself I have to say appears by soon less holy but anyway not less compelling than the other juices of the same brand tested till now. XIX March strikes soon by the top notes for its intensely herbal, aromatic and bitter/hesperidic introduction slightly a la Mr Marvellous Byredo (the latter appears by soon anyway less herbal and more orangy) with its accord provided by lavender, green leaves, orange, bergamot and nettle. The latter in particular imprints a typical harsh bitter/herbal vibe I appreciate so much. The aroma anyway evolves by soon towards something less boisterous and decidedly more musky/spicy and floral. A nice musky/white jasmine appears at the horizon, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg provide an intensely spicy/fizzy vibe (L'Humaniste jumps vaguely on mind) in their link with crisp herbs and citrus while a light woody/musky base embrace the elements in to an extremely exotic, daring, slightly floral, musky/soapy and masculine accord. I love the cedarwood/vetiver/rosemary dominant basic spicy accord (a bit a 7 de Loewe's conjuration but in a way more creamy, less peppery and deprived about the incensey touch). The nettle is still stout and have to say this prickly element provides a "titillative" touch throughout, an herbal-pungent lingering feel becoming gradually soapy/spicy, orangy, floral and musky in a light and fluidy way. The outcome is classy (extremely subtle and refined) orangy/lemony and traditional (think at the lovely citrus/lavender/woods/aromatic herbs accord) but obviously more conventional and less innovative. I suppose minimal hints of amber or benzoin are included in the blend (as support for the white woods) cause the musky spiciness is finally almost soapy. The fragrance is a masculine one in my humble opinion. Stout longevity and medium projection.
08th February, 2014 (last edited: 17th February, 2014)
light and fresh perfume, but still Luxury