The opening combines cumin with a ski ghtly oily sesame that appears as if a bit toasted, and all on the backgound of a woodsy impression. In the middle phase iris emerges, powdery and sweetish, with hints of freesia and other white florals and with styrax emerging towards the end.
On my skin the sillage is moderate, the projection very and the longevity seven hours. Overall some interesting ideas are presented, but it all remains a bit lackluster on my skin and at times a tad too synthetic. 2.75/5 n
The end of the world! What a name...too bad it smells like a sweet, fluffy thing...more "beginning" than "end". The brief popcorn note reminds me of Mugler's short-shelved Miroir does Envies. The drydown will please fans of Like This...a sweet cloud of marshmallow and cotton candy, but not as good.
I don't like this branch of ELDO - the pie-fillers, as I call them. Teetering on the verge of edible baked-goods, and candy-like synthetics. They don't serve the gutsy nature that ELDO is so good at - Jasmin & Cigarette, Rien, Eau de Protection - these are where ELDO shines...I hope they return to those glory days.
26th May, 2015 (last edited: 29th May, 2015)
The end of the world is a soothing dream, something to be embraced in ELDO’s creed, if this offering is anything to go by. Iris prominent perfumes can display a certain alien hauteur – vegetal, rooty, flinty, not offering the easy recognition of a floral or a citrus note. One feels one is meant to display an intellectual appreciation rather than the instinctual and emotional response usually triggered by scent.
The iris in La Fin du Monde smells like how one would imagine pale pink milk to taste – smooth, sweetened delicately, comforting but with an undertow that evades complete identification. It is paired beautifully with the skin musk qualities of ambrette, given a little sympathetic support from carrot seed. There are also gentle woody tones and a hint of something a bit metal-in-the-mouth, but these are minor actors to the central iris-ambrette pairing. Safe, and giving the appearance of simplicity, but also deeply reassuring and rewarding, a trusted friend in perfume form.
Cute opening, velvety and slightly soapy with dusty iris notes (powdery, but not creamy nor rooty), well balanced on a spicy-incense accord of pepper and soft woods, with a silky breeze of amber and resins, vanillin, tonka, perhaps some honey notes or something equally halfway floral and resinous, sligthly roasted too (I guess it's that "popcorn" note). I don't know how gunpowder smells, I always guessed that it should smell like sulphur, and I don't get much of it here. On the base, the amber-woody accord is provided by a load of Iso E which also determines quite a "pencil sharpener" feel. Pleasant, effortlessly elegant, inoffensive, on the drydown it settles on a silky ambery-woody-iris concoction. A playful and a bit uninspired toy aping Dior Homme to many extents, just drier, a bit more woody, with a more "impalpable" feel. Frankly dull, but one of the nicest among Etat Libre range (and that says it all).
Genre: Woody Oriental
Apparently the world ends just in time for dessert. Never mind L’Etat Libre d’Orange’s characteristically loopy advertising copy; the most transgressive element at play here is a short-lived burnt popcorn top note. Otherwise, this is a downy soft gourmand woody oriental with a powdery vanilla, amber, and iris drydown. Yes, there are a couple of oddball detours on the way: some charred woods and a bitter, inky note (the “gunpowder?”), but there’s nothing terribly shocking on display, and certainly nothing that qualifies as apocalyptic. There’s more novelty in this house’s earlier gourmand Like This, more quality in their Fat Electrician, and more fun to be had with their Rossy de Palma. This one’s just a snooze.