Cute opening, velvety and slightly soapy with dusty iris notes (powdery, but not creamy nor rooty), well balanced on a spicy-incense accord of pepper and soft woods, with a silky breeze of amber and resins, vanillin, tonka, perhaps some honey notes or something equally halfway floral and resinous, sligthly roasted too (I guess it's that "popcorn" note). I don't know how gunpowder smells, I always guessed that it should smell like sulphur, and I don't get much of it here. On the base, the amber-woody accord is provided by a load of Iso E which also determines quite a "pencil sharpener" feel. Pleasant, effortlessly elegant, inoffensive, on the drydown it settles on a silky ambery-woody-iris concoction. A playful and a bit uninspired toy aping Dior Homme to many extents, just drier, a bit more woody, with a more "impalpable" feel. Frankly dull, but one of the nicest among Etat Libre range (and that says it all).
Genre: Woody Oriental
Apparently the world ends just in time for dessert. Never mind L’Etat Libre d’Orange’s characteristically loopy advertising copy; the most transgressive element at play here is a short-lived burnt popcorn top note. Otherwise, this is a downy soft gourmand woody oriental with a powdery vanilla, amber, and iris drydown. Yes, there are a couple of oddball detours on the way: some charred woods and a bitter, inky note (the “gunpowder?”), but there’s nothing terribly shocking on display, and certainly nothing that qualifies as apocalyptic. There’s more novelty in this house’s earlier gourmand Like This, more quality in their Fat Electrician, and more fun to be had with their Rossy de Palma. This one’s just a snooze.
I was really looking forward to trying this fragrance but it was left unpurchased in the end.
Why do I enjoy wearing DH and DHI but was slightly put off here?
It can only be the Iris Absolute that has been used -- it dominates the whole fragrance and the other notes seem just 'bit players'. I actually find it less 'fun' than the 2 Diors.
If you are an Iris fan, you will absolutely love this as it is a fine well made fragrance.
The name is purely ironic, there is no hint of Armageddon here. An innovative combination of (mainly) iris and - who wudda thunk it- popcorn. The gunpowder note adds a subtle smokiness. The popcorn is unbuttered and only slightly-sweetened; I wouldn't call this a gourmand. As usual with this house there is a definite artificiality or synthetic quality, suggestive of fairly strict cost-control measures. No-one will suspect they have splashed out for finest Florentine iris. That said, it is a pleasant wear and lasts all day. Whether you like it or not I think depends a lot on your attitude to smelling like popcorn. That does have positive associations for most people; no-one goes to the cinema for a bad time (admittedly I have seen many poor movies but I tend to nod off during those anyway and everyone loves a nap). Unisex.
La Fin du Monde strikes me at once for its penetrating indolic floral exhalations (along the first minutes slightly orangy, spicy, minimally earthy and alcoholic) which are effectively pervaded by opposite vibes in a game of heavenly juxtapositions (partially balmy/floral, veined by secret suede rising from the back i suppose, minimally grassy/rooty and slightly ambery/carnal). I don't endorse this fragrance for a great originality (which is not "in the things", i don't dare to quote the concept of uniqueness which in the feminine perfumery is almost out of the God's mind indeed) but do it (just) partially for the high quality of the implemented materials and because of its extreme balance and subtleness. I catch immediately a really peppery and aromatic (due to an inebriating cumin) aroma of floral pollen (rose/freesia, may be mimosa plus balmy notes, more than iris in this phase) which is slightly botanical (due to a moderate earthy/vegetable feel provided by carrot seed) but by soon at once incredibly balmy, almost lacteous/buttery as ideally for the caress by an heavenly moisturizing foam. In this phase i'm sure to detect a Poeme Lancome's olfactory deja vu despite in here the spices and a rising woodiness are more influencing the general subtle equilibrium. I see also a lot of resemblance with the Elie Saab Le Parfum's aroma (more honeyed, rose oriented and with less basic quality). The ambrette seed keeps on along time to penetrate the elements with a sort of subtle but noticeable carnal/ambery (barely resinous) vibe which is coloured by woody and powdery accents. In the final ambery/woody (powdery woods) phase i detect indeed the note of iris, royal and subtle but marginal and anything but due to be compared with the same (more properly sticky/cosmetical) element mastering Dior Homme and DHI. Few hypes, i see just a delicately appointed balmy floral (languid and romantic) which does not involve my senses as Rien, Je Suis Un Homme or Noel Au Balcon for instance use doing. A really good longevity and in the average projection on my skin.
24th December, 2013 (last edited: 20th October, 2014)