Perfume Directory

La Vierge de Fer (2013)
by Serge Lutens

Advertisement

La Vierge de Fer information

Year of Launch2013
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 23 votes)

People and companies

HouseSerge Lutens
Parent CompanyShiseido

About La Vierge de Fer

La Vierge de Fer is a shared / unisex perfume by Serge Lutens. The scent was launched in 2013

La Vierge de Fer fragrance notes

Reviews of La Vierge de Fer

In their roles as artistic director and perfumer, Lutens and Sheldrake have explored their central woody accord many times, taking it in a syrupy-spiced direction with Arabie, Miel de Bois and Daim Blond and in a more overtly gourmand direction with Un Bois Vanille and Five O’Clock au Gingembre. Overall, there’s been a tendency to hold close their to their signature wood/fruit compositional style but with their soli-floral perfumes Sheldrake and Lutens range much further afield. The perfumes run from pretty and tame (Sa Majesté la Rose & Un Lys) to ferocious (Tubereuse Criminelle & Iris Silver Mist*). La Vierge de Fer falls in line with two other perfumes the brand, A La Nuit (2000) and Datura Noir (2001). Let’s call them the Crass Florals.

All three of the Crass Florals share an over-the-topness that defuses any solemnity the Lutens line might have accrued over the years. Lutens himself has seen enough fashion over the years that he seems to know to pepper ‘serious’ design with camp. La Vierge de Fer’s depiction of lily is less olfacto-realistic than A La Nuit’s jasmine but only slightly so. The unexpected lily-pear pairing takes a moment to come into focus clearly but once it does, it makes perfect sense. The two aromas, the flower and the fruit, share a musky connection that might not be obvious but is smartly manipulated by Sheldrake, who makes the unexpected pairing fit together perfectly. The prickly mouth feel of a bite of pear is recreated with a shellac-like musky tone that cuts sweetness and allows flavor to shine through just as it does in a pear on the cusp of ripeness. La Vierge de Fer’s lily is green and expansive, quite different than the wafting vanillic lily Sheldrake composed for Lutens Un Lys. The pairing of flower and fruit is angular but not jarring and has less sting than the lost pear–florals Jean-Michel Duriez created for Jean Patou.

La Vierge de Fer lacks Datura Noir syrup but shares the luminosity and billowing projection suggestive of tropical climes. Also like Datura Noir, La Vierge maintains super-sized proportions into the hearnotes but finds a more tenable scale by dry-down. The lily remains coherent throughout and the perfume neither loses its shape nor collapses into a ‘skin scent’ and demonstrates Sheldrake’s particular talent for coherent, satisfying drydowns.

La Vierge de Fer provided a welcome break in the grey drift of Lutens’s recent Oedipal florals. 2013’s La Vierge de Fer was preceded by the receding-carnation of 2011’s Vitriol d’Oeillet and followed by the bleak white-out of 2014’s l’Orpheline and grey skies of 2015’s La Religieuse. The muffled, blanketing tones of these woody florals seem at odds with the specificity of many of the line’s earlier florals. They were framed by cryptic allusions by Lutens to revisited childhood memories and distant female authority figures. I believe they were intended to convey a sort of meditative sense of distance and isolation but as a collection they don’t build on each other to express anything but an uncomfortable listlessness.

Vierge de Fer started in the Palais Royal Exclusive line (the bell jars) and eventually found its way to the export line (the rectangular spray bottles.) I came to The Iron Maiden out of sequence, well after The Caustic Carnation, The Orphan and The Nun. The name and the general trend in the Lutens line led me to expect a dirge of a perfume but La Vierge de Fer is neither torturous, as the name implies, nor grim like the other latter-day Lutens florals.

* Yeah, iris is a root but is described qualitatively as a floral scent.

from scenthurdle.com
27th June, 2018
Lily, Jasmine, Frankincnese, Musk, Pear, Sandalwood.

These ingredients meld into a light, very modern acquatic scent. There is sweetness from the pear, jasmine and lily, but the predominant scent here is of a generic white musk.

Like so many drug store and celebrity scents that have flooded the market over the past decade, one wonders why Lutens bothered. The name, Iron Maiden, does denote someone cool and hard under the feminine, but this hardly a Margaret Thatcher scent.

More girly than womanly.

Of no great worth, but wearable.
18th June, 2016
Somewhat sweet. Green and stalky, a bit shallow and metallic. In fact, a bit screechy. Odd from SL, not the usual style. Would get irritating over time. Fruity note is generic, who knows what it is but I know I don't like it.
18th December, 2015
"Let there be light! And darkness no more. He who wishes does not have a black soul! “I will come as a thief …” said Christ; certainly in silence and probably, for him, wearing shoes. To deserve his title, the Thief must act under the wide-open eye of the absent owners. In this case, it is not that tenuous eye with which Cain stares without regret, but another, which in some way will make an accomplice of Abel. If the fetishes, idols and charms of the Museum of Man, in Paris, had not met the 20th century, everyone would have missed that incredible mockery of Eros which The Young Ladies of Avignon certainly is. “The Negros had understood that everything which surrounds us is our enemy”, the wizard Picasso said to his paintbrush. Who, if not one of them, decided on life, by death, would dare, to unclench the teeth of this sex of the world: fear. Since it is the fruit of our entrails, it must be elevated. For that, not fearing incest, we will embrace it. In this way, she will give birth to our most beautiful monsters. That is how, a little rusty by dint of doubts, my steps have rejoined La vierge de fer (the Iron Maiden); that lily amongst the thorns."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Stylized, conceptual. The official description made me smile as much as the verbiage of Womanity.

It opens cool, airy and gassy. Even with this air and radiance it is somber and metallic. Whatever thinned out fruit and floral are in La Vierge de Fer, it is floating in a film of steel spray. The first time I tried it, I thought it light. The second time I happened to be sampling an edc, Voyage de Hermes, on the other wrist. It immediatetely put La Vierge's cool metallic character into highlight.

I don't think this fragrance is a mistake. I like the attempt to put the fruity-floral theme into metal. But for me, it is always about how it makes me feel. La Vierge is a cool grey day at the end of autumn, with the cold, quiet pause before first snow hanging in the air. It reminds me of the time  a travelling carnival was in town, staying too late in the year. From far away I could smell snow cones and cotton candy coming across the field, mixed with the mineral cold soil around me. That artificial fruitiness mixed with the sober reality of brown frozen dirt gave me such a sense of the clash of two realities. La Vierge makes me feel that way. The somber wash over the fruits and floral is a mockery. You can smell them, but can't truly have their bright beauty. It is a disquieting feeling for me, so I don't think I can wear it, though I think it's interesting and subtle.

It is long-lasting and has a moderate sillage. 
26th May, 2015
Vile shampoo floral....worse than Nuits De Cellophane. I'm wondering if I have the right sample at this point, but the review on The Non-Blonde website echoes my thoughts. Melon, fruity thing that would fit in with the likes of Beyond Paradise, but much, much worse.
23rd December, 2014

Add your review of La Vierge de Fer

You need to be logged in to add a review

Shop for La Vierge de Fer products online

Shop for La Vierge de Fer at online perfumeries

Search for on eBay

LA VIERGE DE FER EDP SPRAY 3.4oz/100ml SERGE LUTENS NEW NOIRE COLLECTION TESTER

$125.00
End Date: Saturday Feb-16-2019 7:48:45 PST
Buy It Now for only: $125.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


La Vierge De Fer by Serge Lutens Eau De Parfum Spray 1.6 oz for Women

$79.64
End Date: Saturday Feb-16-2019 14:42:06 PST
Buy It Now for only: $79.64
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


perfume mujer La Vierge De Fer by Serge Lutens Eau De Parfum 1.6oz 50ml women

$121.50
End Date: Monday Feb-18-2019 11:15:44 PST
Buy It Now for only: $121.50
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Serge Lutens La Vierge De Fer 1.6oz_50ml Unisex Eau De Parfum Spray Fragrance

$127.53
End Date: Tuesday Feb-19-2019 0:57:32 PST
Buy It Now for only: $127.53
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


La Vierge De Fer by Serge Lutens, 1.6 oz EDP Unisex

$61.73
End Date: Tuesday Feb-19-2019 9:50:55 PST
Buy It Now for only: $61.73
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


SERGE LUTENS LA VIERGE DE FER by Serge Lutens - 298593

$178.48
End Date: Wednesday Feb-20-2019 22:33:48 PST
Buy It Now for only: $178.48
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


SERGE LUTENS La Vierge De Fer 3x5ml SAMPLE! 100% Authentic

$35.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Thursday Feb-21-2019 21:04:11 PST
Bid now | Add to watch list


Serge Lutens La Vierge De Fer By Serge Lutens Eau De Parfum Spray 1.6 Oz *tester

$74.75
End Date: Thursday Feb-21-2019 21:06:18 PST
Buy It Now for only: $74.75
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Serge Lutens La Vierge De Fer By Serge Lutens Eau De Parfum Spray 1.6 Oz

$82.55
End Date: Thursday Feb-21-2019 21:23:12 PST
Buy It Now for only: $82.55
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


La Vierge De Fer by Serge Lutens Eau De Parfum Spray 1.6 oz/50 ml Women

$85.00
End Date: Friday Feb-22-2019 6:56:13 PST
Buy It Now for only: $85.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Serge Lutens La Vierge De Fer By Serge Lutens Eau De Parfum Spray 1.6 Oz *tester

$77.05
End Date: Friday Feb-22-2019 19:48:17 PST
Buy It Now for only: $77.05
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Serge Lutens La Vierge De Fer by Serge Lutens Eau de Parfum Spray 1.6 oz Tester

$65.44
End Date: Friday Feb-22-2019 21:55:26 PST
Buy It Now for only: $65.44
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Serge Lutens La Vierge De Fer By Serge Lutens Eau De Parfum Spray 1.6 Oz

$85.09
End Date: Friday Feb-22-2019 23:25:41 PST
Buy It Now for only: $85.09
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


La Vierge De Fer by Serge Lutens Eau De Parfum Spray 1.6 oz for Women

$86.04
End Date: Saturday Feb-23-2019 18:03:24 PST
Buy It Now for only: $86.04
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


LA VIERGE DE FER BY SERGE LUTENS EAU DE PARFUM SPRAY 1.69 oz UNISEX BRAND NEW

$70.50
End Date: Sunday Feb-24-2019 10:03:17 PST
Buy It Now for only: $70.50
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Member images of La Vierge de Fer

There are no member images of La Vierge de Fer yet. Why not be the first?

You need to log in or register to upload images

Private Notes

You need to be logged in (or register here) to use Private Notes.

Advertisement

Advertisement