Perfume Directory

Kiki Voile d'Extrait (2013)
by Vero Profumo


Kiki Voile d'Extrait information

Year of Launch2013
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
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People and companies

HouseVero Profumo
PerfumerVero Kern

About Kiki Voile d'Extrait

Kiki Voile d'Extrait is a feminine perfume by Vero Profumo. The scent was launched in 2013 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Vero Kern

Kiki Voile d'Extrait fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Kiki Voile d'Extrait

The ability to break perfume down into notes and ingredients is highly valued among perfume fans. It is understood to indicate a discerning nose and is often used to distinguish the cognoscenti from the overwashed masses. Unfortunately, it is unduly valued and can impede enjoyment and a better understanding of perfume for the wearer. This misconception is one of the side-effects of the secrecy of the perfume industry. What perfume wearers know about the inner workings of perfume composition and production amounts to few odd bits of information and the mythology that a little knowledge tends to foster. One tidbit is that an important, if elementary, skill in composing perfume is identifying and deconstructing scents. We mistakenly assume that the skills needed to make perfume are the same ones needed to appreciate and understand it.
A knowledge of frequency, pigments and aromachemicals does not equate to a better or more meaningful experience in appreciating painting, music or perfumery. Perfumery can be read, but calls for critical thinking and self-reflection. The vocabulary of aroma is helpful, but not necessary.


Reading Kiki tells you about the perfume and by extension the perfumer. Kiki reinforces what I suspected on wearing Kern's Rozy and Onda: Kern is a classicist but not necessarily a traditionalist. All three perfumes demonstrate a measured use of the vocabulary and techniques of quintessential western perfumery. Kiki is an essay on lavender and makes allusions to 19th century icons such as Houbigant Fougère Royale and Guerlain Jicky without being either derivative or strictly traditional. Kern says she used a lavender with a high percentage of coumarin, so the shape of a fougère is implied. The inedible soapiness of a fougère is nowhere to be found, though. Instead, a tease of caramel connotes candy-sweetness with a dry powderiness balancing the confection so that Kiki never lands in the gourmand camp. In fact, Kiki is reminiscent of early "oriental" perfumes. Where Shalimar contrasts a tart, rich bergamot with vanilla, Kiki matches bergamot and musky caramel, a compositional juxtaposition that again leans toward the classical.

The best of early 20th century perfumery was daring and pushed the expectation of what perfumery could accomplish. In this one sense, Kern can be considered traditional. More broadly, though, she uses classical methods to experiment and to explore rather than to follow. Kiki takes the expected, lavender, and gives us something novel and gorgeous.

Unearthing originality while using known forms and techniques is rare and for the less deliberate artist might never happen. Kern's combination of classicism and unconventionality pays dividends. Her perfumes are unorthodox and exquisite. Her perfumes may not appeal to all, but polarization is a consequence of deliberation and vision in art and I doubt that Kern is looking for her work to be considered broad entertainment. Call it bias or call it alignment of artist and audience, but I both admire and adore Kiki. I'm smitten.

17th May, 2015
Vero Profumo Kiki Voile d'Extrait is first of all a really beautiful aromatic "barber-shop/bath foam-like" lavender-patchouli with musky, floral, hesperidic and honeyed nuances. A new generation aromatic fougere. The main note of earthy-aromatic lavender is properly minty in a way I detect for a while points of connection with the glorious Faconnable which is an Ode to the note of mint. A really fresh, aldehydic, laundry-soapy and hesperidic opening (more than vaguely a la Oriza L. Legrand in style and with "O'Driu'esque" herbal-spicy accents) is a prelude for a yet aromatic but decidedly more fruity- honeyed and resinous evolution full of exotic chypre musky classicism and grassy-minty-sharply floral barber-shop articulation. All the aroma plays the game of juxtaposition of opposites, I mean aromatic sharp lavender-geranium-patchouli on one side and resinous (amber, opoponax) honeyed caramel on the other side. I detect also a sort of wide spread fresh ("new version of old style fougere-like") cleaning hotel room vibe throughout (yes, probably citronellol/galaxolide/linalool centered vaguely conjuring the new Drakkar Noir's opening, several Visconti di Modrone's and with a certain extention the great Krizia Uomo). Finally a note of botanic patchouli starts hanging out more brightly providing a stiff but subtle earthy vibe. I have to say that the aroma (finally floral, spicy-mild and mentholated) is not spectrum of a style which I'm familiar with but I appreciate the general barber-shop aromatic-bracing aura finally evolving in to a soapier, somewhat naif and barely powdery piece of bright (and bold) tradition which I find somewhat synthetic but not particularly cacophonous. On the complex an interesting concoction decidedly synthetic and with a nostalgic botanic-laundry temperament.
PS: along dry down the powerfully minty aroma becomes decidedly more balmy-musky-powdery-spicy and in this (vanilla-patchouli centered) phase Kiki Voile d'Extrait smells decidedly less textured (less earthy-hesperidic) and more modern (with a more than vague similarity with aromatic-synthetic-glamour scents a la Ted Lapidus Black Soul- I have to say that also more classical in style "aromatic-minty vanilla/patchouli" concoctions a la Coco Mademoiselle and Kiori by Kiori jump on mind after many hours).
28th December, 2014 (last edited: 06th January, 2015)
In Italy we have a saying which in English may translate into "bite off more than one can chew". It quite fits this scent, which is interesting for its concept, but just too dissonant and developed in a way I personally do not enjoy. Basically the idea is to create an evolution which goes from a vanilla/opoponax, citrus, geranium and something juicy and almost sticky I don't get entirely (the passion fruit, I guess) to a more dry, earthy and shady "feminine fougère" drydown. All materials are great and natural – Vero Kern is one of the best when it comes to this. The fact is that it's all just "wrong" at several points from the very beginning. The very first opening accord is already a "no" for me, as I find the juxtaposition of sweet notes (vanillin, opoponax, white flowers) with citrus, pungent spices and ginger a bit messy and confusing. This quickly evolves in fact into a discomforting gingerbread smell I like even less. Furthermore, also the passion fruit note (which has quite a prominent position) is... weird, sticky, warm – somehow warm like an almost-rotting fruit. Besides, there is also a linalool "floor cleaner/insecticide" note which smells quite out of place, just wandering around like a cat bugging you while you're fixing something. After a while it all gets slightly more rubbery, still with a mentholated feel (geranium) and a bold accord or dusty, caramelised notes with patchouli and woods – which basically, from times of times, delivers an unpleasant soup smell. If my review may appear a bit messy, it's partially due to my lack of writing skills, but trust me: also the scent is messy too. Finally the very last drydown is nice, and in fact it has a fougère feel: it just is not worthy the hour of olfactory cacophonies it costed you. Still giving a barely positive rating since the materials themselves smell great, and I get the "good creative intentions" behind this. Besides I also admit I've often issues in appreciating this kind of "non-common" scents, so perhaps this is a great scent and I'm just unable to "get" it.

26th April, 2014

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