An extremely powerful and vibrant jasmine soliflore. Rich, rooty, raw, on oak moss and not much more (cloves, perhaps patchouli). As usual with Dubrana, an incredibly wide range of nuance arises from the simplest composition. The name fits the scent perfectly, jasmine here tells you tales of mystery, romanticism, quiet, comprising the narcotic power of flowers with rose and anise aftertaste, but also a powdery-soapy note which makes you think of silky bedsheets, abandoned rooms in a Venetian rainy evening, antique furniture, mysterious corners, wet streets and as the name goes, secret gardens. As minutes pass the scent becomes drier and darker, bringing in a smoky, ghastly, chypre dry note of dust and ash, with a hint of incense but also of burning wood and dry tobacco, with an aftertaste of shady earthy aromas of coffee, tanning leather, and again, gloomy humid floral notes. At this stage is more austere and mysterious, less sensual and raw than the first stages. On the drydown, a mellow smell of wet grass and the balmy breeze preceding a thunderstorm. Utterly evocative despite its dry-to-the-bone simplicity. It soon becomes quite light, as it often happens with all-natural scents, but it's long-lasting and terribly refined in its discreet presence. Not "unique", but a perfectly well-made must for all jasmine fans (or well, for all perfume fans wanting to smell a honest, powerful and evocative natural scent).
28th June, 2014 (last edited: 29th June, 2014)
The first approach is rose for a about 20 seconds, than the jasmine jumps on the stage. The floral feel is totally realistic and any specific word can express throughly this concept, just we can smell the almost dirty/stale feel I can detect for instance in Acampora Jasmine T where the floral approach is anyway less sharp, more "pollen centered" and more dense. The rose/jasmine combo is here almost hypnotic, something obsessive and sinister. You can capture that sort of acid mephitis that uses to rise up from the putrid water stale inside a flowerpot. I don't detect myrrh for sure and the ambergris effect i detect is something slightly animalic and dirty. The floral miasm is supported by herbal/lymphatic notes, leaves and woods. Effectively the stale and slightly camphoraceous floral aroma well fits to the image of an old secret garded of nobiliar building somewhat abandoned and spoiled. A romantic and decidedly decadent one Venezia Giardini Segreti, despite not properly "accomplished", sophisticated and structured, is an evocative and nostalgic "odour" conjuring an arcane idea of silence, ghosts and left over seasons. The longevity is poor as can be normal (and probably acceptable) for such hyper-natural concoctions.
"Venezia - Giardini Segreti" is after "Milano Caffe" the second perfume in the "Italian Series" by La Via del Profumo. It features notes of Jasmine, Rose, Herbs, Myrrh and real Ambergris.
"Venezia" has a wonderful and vivid Jasmine/Rose-combo, perfectly balanced and beautiful. I detect also something citrusy, could be lemon but also a nice and fresh frankincense. Either way it fits perfectly to the "Secret Garden"-theme. I don't really smell any Myrrh in "Venezia", but maybe it is intended to be that way, just adding some warmth and "mystery" to the scent. The Ambergris-base is not strong, but then again I have the feeling that I am partially anosmic to it. It's kind of funny because I don't really smell it consciously with my nose, I smell only a dry, woody note, a bit like cedarwood, but my brain tells me that there is something more that is making the perfume "big" and "alive". So I know that the Ambergris is there.
"Venezia" reminds me of Aftelier's "Sepia", but without the disgusting strawberry-note. "Sepia" is more complex, with more prominent woody notes, "Venezia" is simpler to my nose, but nicely blended and refined. I find "Sepia" totally misnamed as someone could expect a totally different perfume judged by the name, but the name "Venezia - Giardini Segreti" fits perfectly to Profumo's creation because it makes you really feel like sitting in a garden on a hot day and catching whiffs of fresh air from time to time when the wind is gently blowing.
All in all it is a very nice perfume for summer, and a must-try for all Jasmine and Rose lovers, especially for those who didn't like the Jasmine in "Tawaf" because it is much more tamed here. I don't know which perfume of the "Italian Series" I like more, "Milano Caffe" or "Venezia"? "MC" is much more complex to my nose, it's busy, really like sitting in a cafe with people talking and cars passing by. "Venezia" is simpler, more to the point with no distraction, truly like sitting in a garden, an oasis where you can leave everyday life behind and just relax.
18th March, 2014 (last edited: 02nd April, 2014)