Perfume Directory

L'Art de la Guerre (2014)
by Jovoy


L'Art de la Guerre information

Year of Launch2014
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 24 votes)

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About L'Art de la Guerre

L'Art de la Guerre is a shared / unisex perfume by Jovoy. The scent was launched in 2014

L'Art de la Guerre fragrance notes

Reviews of L'Art de la Guerre

Slightly medicinal apple and rhubarb.
More wearable but less characterful version of Hinoki by CdG.
Not offensive but nothing to write home about either.
I may wear Hinoki for fun but this is not worth bothering with.

Fragrance: 6/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 7/10
22nd October, 2018
Head by Jackson Pollock
01st February, 2018
Love, hate, love ...

Nice opening. Apple and bergamot perform small firework for your senses. Unfortunately, very short, maybe half an hour.

After that follows scent that reminds me vividly on old books, a mixture of old paper and leather. It lasts for several hours, almost without any oscillation.

And then a beautiful base, probably one of the best I have smelled. You can smell leather, but this time it is very gentle, along with wood and maybe some tobacco. Base lasts for very long, 24 hours.

All in all, very interesting fragrance.

My problem here is middle note, that scent of old books, because that is not something I want to wear. This is something that is interesting to me as a fragrance lover but it is not something that I would enjoy wearing daily. That's why I didn’t buy it (yet), though dry down strongly attracts me. I will probably try it for third time in following months.

Be sure to try it, if you find peace with a middle note, you will love it. If not, you will still respect him.

We should definitely follow future works of nose behind this, Vanina Murraciole.
05th October, 2017
For so much to be going on with this one, it smells terrific! This and Ambre Premier (which I purchased) are the main ones that stood out when sampling. I get a lot of patchouli and violet with this one. Not too sweet because the leather note (light leather)seems to calm it down along with the bergamot. Nicely done! 8/10
06th October, 2015
Jovoy L'Art de la Guerre is a particularly (for a part of its run) aqueous-aromatic (and somewhat fruity-musky) take on the sandalwood-leather-forest resins accord. More precisely the aroma opens wet-aromatic and fruity morphing gradually along the way towards something woodsy, resinous and leathery. This is an extremely spicy fragrance, nutmeg (may be supported by a touch of saffron) is pungent, dusty and wet. This scent is really sultry, almost tropical and wet, despite the presence of typically "restraining" notes as woods, leather and violet leaves and despite a sort of resinous undertone provided by cistus (an intensely woodsy resinous presence). The "key elements" are sandalwood, green apple, violet leaves and rhubarb. The latter is probably the characterizing element of the whole creation providing its typical herbal-freshly-spicy-simil boozy (vermouth liquor-like) aura which fully envelops the intensely pungent fruity accord of violet, sandalwood and musks. The opening is sparkling, aromatic (lavender-immortelle) and extremely "wet-fluidy". The green apple presence is central providing an obsessive fruity (sharply bitter) "pungency" (all the more in its connection with sandalwood/leather and violet leaves). The violet leaves presence is dominant too but it doesn't perform "traditionally" in to an earthy-lymphatic way being almost juicy, fruity, humid, fizzy and freshly spicy. This fruity/floral "core" is really too much pungent for my current taste to be honest. The note of bergamot is never glorious (and structuring) but mediocrely pungent and fizzy-spicy. I detect in particular a seasoned whiff of woodiness throughout which is just slightly veined by a touch of leather in the second phase of development. The dry down is extremely woody (more restrained, earthy-spicy and virile) but still fruity and vaguely leathery. Not my cup of tea (frankly I don't crave for this kind of intensely spicy-fruity musky accords) but I can see how such type of fragrance could be attractive for the lovers of temperamental "obsessively penetrating" aromas with a sultry-spicy intensity.
P.S: once settled the dry down, after many hours (stout longevity) the wet fruity spiciness recedes (under a general act of restrainment) while a "tough" (and somewhat bitter-licorice/immortelle/smoke veined) sandawood/leather accord gets the scene (somewhat bitter-sweet, by violet veined and melancholic).
17th May, 2015 (last edited: 18th May, 2015)
My first reaction to smelling this was to punch my fist in the air and say “Yes! This is what I’m talking about!” After sniffing my way through a good few modern niche and designer fragrances for men, a depressing number of which seem to be watery, sweet, or (shudder) aquatic, it comes as a bit of a shock to smell something so resolutely masculine. L’Arte de la Guerre is a modern, spicy interpretation of a classic fougere, and it does its thing so confidently that it never strikes you as a pastiche, or as old-fashioned.

The opening notes are of a green, astringent fruit – the snapped-stalk bitterness of rhubarb coupled with unripe Granny Smith apples – which together provides a twist to the classic fougere opening. It’s important to note that the fruit notes here are not literal at all. They are not like, for example, Creed’s Spice and Wood with its crisp green apple top note, or Aedes de Venustas’ Eau de Parfum, which uses a very realistic rhubarb note. Instead, L’Arte de la Guerre uses the textural qualities of rhubarb and green apples – their tart, green astringency and ‘stalkiness’ – to suggest a sharp, watery freshness as a stand-in for the usual citrus-like opening notes to a fougere. It is unusual and striking.

The freshness does not last long, though, because what this fragrance is all about is an exercise in dark, shady materials – smoky, mineralic oakmoss, dusty lavender, earthy patchouli, tobacco, and leather. It reads as very complex to my nose and is almost impossible to separate out into its constituent layers. I definitely pick up on a crunchy green-grey violet note floating up through the density of the darker materials, like an air pocket. But at its heart lies a dusty, dry, and intensely spicy tobacco accord, buffeted on either side by camphorous lavender and dark patchouli. More moss and leathery amber form the sturdy base. There is some relationship to Caron’s great fougere, The Third Man, but L’Arte de la Guerre is infinitely the more evolved of the two.

Although I would characterize the overall feel of this as darkly mossy/bitter, the maple syrup aspects of immortelle and a touch of amber have been used cleverly here to gives little hints of sweetness, as if to take the sting out of its tail. The texture of this perfume is slightly dry and powdery, but also rich and deep (in other words, it is not an airy little creature liable to fly off your skin in under an hour).

In summary, L’Arte de la Guerre is a slightly forbidding fragrance that projects quiet masculine power. Fragrantica has this as suitable for men or women, but I feel confident that this one is exclusively for the Men. That’s right, Men with a Capital M. There are not many fragrances I would warn women off from trying or wearing (wear what you like, of course), but this is one that has maleness written all over it as surely as if it were sporting an Adam’s apple. It is glorious, though, and one that future generations will be talking about as a classic.
22nd November, 2014

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