Christopher Street (2013)
by Charenton Macerations

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Christopher Street information

Year of Launch2013
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 22 votes)

People and companies

HouseCharenton Macerations
PerfumerRalf Schwieger

About Christopher Street

Christopher Street is a shared / unisex perfume by Charenton Macerations. The scent was launched in 2013 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Ralf Schwieger

Reviews of Christopher Street

This is an interesting one for sure. I got a sample of this ages ago, tried it, found it a bit masculine, and thought I’d given it to my husband to use. But when I was going through my samples box, there it was, hiding right in the back of the box. So I gave my husband a sniff of the bottle to see what he thought – he reared back, gave me a horrified look and declared it way too sweet. All I can say is that our noses must be wired differently, because I hardly get any sweetness from this – on me, this is all spice and leather, wrapped in tobacco and incense and cloves. I get how people are saying they get an almost BO type smell from this – but it’s not a stinky, manky, rank BO. It’s a sexy, clean sort of smell. The leather and spice and musk make me think of a well-worn, well-loved leather jacket, that you’ve had for years and that you wear everywhere – it’s soft and comfortable and it has become infused with years of aftershave and perfume and smoke, with a touch of sweat. Three hours in, the musk started to come out, with a touch of sweetness, with the citrus adding a lovely tang. Five hours in it was still going strong – not overpoweringly so, rather just pleasantly spicy wafts every now and again. The tobacco was still there, only softer, and it mingles nicely with the musk. It’s now 10 hours since I put this on, and I’m still getting lovely wafts of this, so it’s right up there for longevity. I really have enjoyed how this has evolved over the day – it’s extremely well done.
26th August, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
The fresh citrus/lemon/ orange opening is modulated by a bergamot undertone; and this whole mix receives a slightly harsh edge by the early addition of a tannin-prominent leather add-on. The result is a freshness with a lovely twist and not your traditional citrus top note.

The drydown shows a deeper, softer side of this creation, mainly driven by cinnamon sweetness and a spicy undertone that at times morphs into an incense impression. A floral sideline - carnation mainly - remains feeble in my skin, and soon the base notes with their musky fairly smooth and somber patchouli take over until the end, but the patchouli develops a crispy edge that adds a fresh-ish touch in the final hour.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity - unexpected given the citrus opening - is a marvelous fourteen hours on my skin.

A delightful, quite creative take on the citrus+ theme, well blended and performing exceptionally well. 3.75/5.
28th March, 2016
Where have you been all my life, Christopher Street?
This is a fantastic debut fragrance, a metallic, spicy, leather and floral chypre that feels both avant garde and from a bygone era. Fabulously unisex (or given the name, androgynous?) this is a knock-out. A perfume lover's perfume. Moderate sillage, excellent longevity, smells clean. I'm not sure where some of the other reviews on this frag get dank or pungent or sweaty -- I don't find that here at all.

The clove and cinnamon are subtle, the leather and tobacco retrained, all well blended, with an pervading alcoholic lime that manages to a hazy and not overbearing. Just. Lovely.
02nd March, 2016
I don’t know what it is about these small, indie perfumers in America these days, but they are somehow taking what is a traditionally European structure – the classic citrus cologne ‘smell’ – and beating us at our own game. Not only beating us, but sailing past us with a cheeky wave and a grin. The opening notes of Christopher Street are a sort of turbo-charged version of the citrus, herbs, and aromatics one smells in the (all too brief) top notes of European eaux de colognes such as Eau de Guerlain and Acqua di Parma. In Christopher Street, the bergamot, lime, and bitter oranges come at you like a huge wall of sound, fizzing and snapping at you like electrical wires cut loose in a storm. It’s explosively sour, like those lemon and lime sweets you bought as a kid and sucked until they corroded the lining of your mouth. Truly exciting stuff and a memorable opening.

The roiling citrus and aromatics here are like a skin on the fragrance, always present, but fitted tightly over a dark, damp undergrowth of woods, patchouli, leather, tobacco, and moss. There is something slightly mineralic, grey, or metallic in the center of the fragrance – possibly the listed incense. Mostly, though, what I sense is the pleasantly moldy patchouli and a sort of spicy, sweaty thin leather accent. The musky and leather in the base turns the dry down of Christopher Street is a long, protracted affair that feels pleasantly solid, like a good, old-fashioned fougere or leather bellwether. In fact, fans of the modern version of Bel Ami (me among them), with its transparent, spicy clove leather smell might like Christopher Street an awful lot. I don’t find it to be very animalic, though – just pleasantly skin musky in the way that some masculines smell on male skin by the end of a long, hard day. An intimate, lived-in skin smell.

But Christopher Street smells infinitely crisper and more modern than a mere pastiche of the masculine fougere genre. It is as if a small part of a traditional men’s fougere or leather fragrance has been folded up and hidden inside the structure of a citrus cologne. I like and admire it a lot, and think it really stands out as an achievement in independent perfumery. But the part of me that wants to love a modern reinterpretation of a masculine genre has already been occupied by the wonderful Lampblack, and therefore I am content to save my little sample vial of Christopher Street and take it off to sniff every now and then, just to remind myself of the surprise it pulls off.
22nd January, 2015
My day with Christopher Street: tested, loved, wishlisted, bought. What a great scent! The opening is totally intriguing from the very first sniff: smoky, “campfire” woody-leathery notes cleverly juxtaposed to a slap of juicy, aromatic, fizzy and mellow bergamot-citrus notes. A bold contrast, which works just perfectly here, mostly because of the really clever and creative “gradient” between the two opposites: a blend of earthy-mossy-spicy-floral notes comprising green stuff, carnation and crisp, rich tobacco (a duo – carnation and tobacco - that strongly links Christopher Street to vintage Equipage by Hermès in my opinion), then patchouli, cloves, other woods... “synesthetically”, I’d define this a vibrant “black-brownish-orange” gem. Or in other words, a spicy-woody fresh-aromatic Oriental leather scent with a bold zesty-aromatic side, sweet nuances from tobacco to cinnamon. All so bloody well blended. A sharp, rich, unisex, totally creative modern scent that for me quite clearly takes inspiration from some vintage green fougères, without smelling like a ripoff of them (see? Sometimes...). The creative and modern side of Christopher Street mostly lies in something just... “playful” going on here, a touch of fresh colour, something crisp and vibrating that makes Christoper just totally, well, “contemporary” - I don’t really know how to put it. Another “avantgarde” touch here is a sort of ammonia-metallic vein which isn’t the usual “aromachemical-driven” metallic aftertaste, rather an actual smell of aseptic metal; it’s there, but tamed down enough to blend just perfectly with the rest, so don’t think of any unpleasant “clash” of notes. Overall I find this a terribly refined scent exuding talent, class, fun, creativity. History rewritten. Incredibly versatile too, as it’s really not that challenging; it’s fresh yet dark, formal yet impudent. Just a precious balance of inventiveness, quality and good taste - plus it lasts for hours and projects loud and sharp. So great. Try it!

9/10
16th January, 2015
For some reasons, I would have expected Christopher Street to smell much more conventional than it actually does. Probably because of the very classic pyramid or, maybe, because of the concept behind it. As a matter of fact, this is a pretty unique concoction that's daring, quirky and perhaps not so easy to like.

There's surely a classicism inherent to Charles Street. Something aimed at tributing old leathery-chypres of the past but there's also something extremely novel without resulting too odd. It opens with a strident and remarkably bitter lime / orange /leather combo. Spices such as cinnamon and cloves break in right away providing a kind of metallic vibe juxtaposed to an overall sweaty facet that preserve the fragrance from bordering into *disinfectant* territories. This is probably the most difficult phase of Charles Street. You can clearly smell all of the notes involved but, at the same time, none of them smell exactly like you'd expect. There's an overall weirdness to this fragrance that might result off-putting to many but if you hang in there, you'll soon be up for one of the most sophisticated musky-mossy-leathery drydowns I've experienced in a while. Smooth resins add even more warmness to what I would classify as an incredibly *human* composition.

Again, probably not an everyday fragrance, surely bizarre and most definitely pushing the limits of *what smells good* but nonetheless fantastic.

Big thumbs up!

11th January, 2015

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