Less fabled than its sibling Honey Oud, Floris Leather Oud packs in significant power of its own but simply rather leans toward leather than honey in its focus. Sophisticated, sharp, and not too animalic or dirty, it occupies a space that I generally find to be neglected, the regal sort of leather that impresses but doesn't overwhelm, and I'm particularly picky about leathers.a
Its leather isn't so dominant as to subdue the bergamot in the opening, which contributes to a sharp sort of freshness. The florals in the heart blend in very nicely, not taking over but rather adding some nuance to the leather. And the oud isn't not an overpowering dirty oud, but rather sharp oud that blends in from a more topheavy position than usual. The base of woods is nice, too, as that provides a natural comfort. I'm not sure what "amber wood" is, exactly, but it's certainly not a sharper wood from what I can tell.
Again, to compare to Honey Oud, Leathe Oud too is a great performer, but because its focus is leather and not honey, it's inherently a little less casual and more formal, not that that's problematic but simply a predictable consequence.
Overall, a harmonious composition that plays well on the central note, keeping it both a fun and formal experience that, while ideal for cooler weather also might not be too cloying in even the warmest of weather, though it's difficult for me to say at this time. One I'd surely consider buying at the right price, as the $235 for 100ml EDP retail is a bit steep as far as I'm concerned. Still, for the money, this could be a versatile niche player for men that may, for some, justify the cost, but I'm hoping I might be able to do better.
8 out of 10
Post Dior, any scent named Leather Oud must be approached with great trepidation. However, my frame of reference has been other recent (2014) floris scents - Leather and Honey Oud as it looks like Floris has been blending together a few new accords - this one being the real winner!
Right away I pick up genuine quality Oud. There is an oily texture that seems to cling to the skin, like using an expensive bath oil. The leather soon joins in and is pitched just right, lightly spicy, masculine bringing the oud under control and ensuring the florals stay true masculine. The main floral element from the mid notes is geranium giving a minty / peppery aspect and a delicately balanced clean / dirty contrast.
Worn outside, when the wind blows you might pick up: oil, minty leather, tobacco, florals, whiskey. There is no barnyard stank al la Dior, but there is the impression of a man's worn leather coat, full of character. This floral leather combo could be taken as a re-imagining of Farenheit, albeit with a background sweetness and powdery (patchoulli) dry down to nice sweet warm wood.
This one beats Honey-Oud from the same house which actually exists in a very saturated market of what it really is, a rose-oud scent. Many of the accords are shared and the two scents are 70% alike. Leather Oud is actually the versatile option, a gentleman's Oud, a real leather, a modern classic, quality, complex, old school - somehow bringing to mind Habit Rouge, Sartorial, Farenheit.
Bleurgh. Amonia, deep heat, swimming pools and old men. Yes, there’s some leather there, and eventually some patchouli and floral notes come through but it’s heavily masked by the overwhelming dustiness of the other elements. Awful. Tried to wash it off with a scrubbing brush and dish soap, but the smell is still everywhere. Rank.