Perfume Directory

Shaded (2014)
by Diane Pernet


Shaded information

Year of Launch2014
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
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HouseDiane Pernet

About Shaded

Shaded is a shared / unisex perfume by Diane Pernet. The scent was launched in 2014

Shaded fragrance notes

Reviews of Shaded

There is one review of Shaded.
Shaded is my first intense approach with the Diane Pernet Collection and I have to say I'm more than positively impressed, guys. One of the few really interesting creations I've tested on skin in the last six months, a perfect combinations of diverse accords (burnt sugary-incensey close to skin, woody-salty-iodate-dusty at distance). This is a daring courageous woody experiment and one of the most intrigant frankincense's rendition in perfumery, a sleight of hand based on the juxtaposition between resinous (woody/burnt sugary) and salty-iodate. First of all I appreciate the introducing DP's concept, something surely ideal and iconographic in inspiration (probably the Diane's "dark side of the moon") but never dissociated from the specific demands of marketing and communications (the Pernet's more speculative side) since this project does not aim to resolve itself in to something anachronistic and hypocritically spiritual but it "is inquisitive and open at all levels", it is in to a nutshell genuinely speculative and material before than iconoclast and visual. By the way, after reading the listed notes I was expecting something by soon lighter, saltier, dustier, crispier while the previous characteristics are (partially) proper of the following stages of evolution since opening is something more compelling, mystic and intense (but I can yet say less original than the final evolution). I detect by soon dark woods and resins but it's like the woody presence is merged with something superbly spicy (kind of almost indie, "Lutensesque" and "Slumberhousesque" in style), syrupy, viney-liquorous, smoky, burnt sugary and plummy. It is hardly deniable in this phase (at least on my skin) a similarity with a complicated scent as Rundholz 03.April. 1968 (and vaguely or partially with Tom Ford Sahara Noir or Lutens Fille en Aiguilles). This phase is quite irresistible and kind of edible (or better drinkable like a sort of italian "Vin Santo" or in general "Passito"). Spiciness is intense, salty-sugary, viney and figgy. I detect as well a vague sort of "pipe tobacco-facet" well rounded and toasted. In this stage resins are heady, so smokey and sugary but a remarkable trait is surely a sort of counteracting salty-piquant accord afforded by vetiver as combined with marine patterns and sharp dustiness. Saltiness increases more and more its influence along the way and (while resins tend to gradually recede) the woodiness (kind of cedary and stark) keeps holding on its power till the end (never utterly sharp but still resinous-burnt sugary and supported by a warm musky, almost animalic, embrace). This is a saturnine and misty juice, no question, according with a description ideally something smelling like a sort of lovers' encounter in the caressing nocturnal oceanic mist. Dry down is amazing, something salty-ambery/peppery/incensey (a sort of warm and organic frankincense/ambergris-like embrace exudes sparks of subtle, vaguely ammoniacal, iodate, piquant and sophisticated sensuality in the air). Shaded is a peculiar and erotic salty rendition of the superb vetiver-frankincense connection, one of the most intriguing in perfumery.
08th June, 2016 (last edited: 09th June, 2016)

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