Perfume Directory

NO Suede (2013)
by Ur M


NO Suede information

Year of Launch2013
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
Not enough ratings.

People and companies

HouseUr M
PerfumerAntoine Lie

About NO Suede

NO Suede is a shared / unisex perfume by Ur M. The scent was launched in 2013 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Antoine Lie

Reviews of NO Suede

A quite stout leather-juice really warm, gently resinous, woody, vaguely talky/ambery/aromatic (at the end of the journey) and sensual. A beast with a romantic dusty soul. A powdery/aromatic (though not properly balsamic) take on spicy leather (yes aromatic safraleine) which, if not properly modern, natural or innovative, smells somewhat vivid and owns all the credentials to compete with several renowned leathers though not properly managing to lord over many of them. Uer mi No Suede starts with a intoxicating blast of simil spicy tobacco vaguely a la Teatro Olfattivo di Parma Bell'Antonio (an apparent feeling quite peppery, saffrony, ostensibly boozy, liquid/incensey and mild), aqueous leather (a la Cuir de Lancome) and quite "sticky" frankincense. The aroma changes in a few seconds on my skin. The spicy tobacco's apparent feel evolves in to something woody, mild and powdery a la Le Labo Patchouli 24. Guaiac wood (joined to subtle well rounding fruity notes and florals) is by soon a key element able to civilize the initially piquant leather with a balancing mildly woody touch (quite perfect, ambery, fruity and spicy floral). Several undiscernible floral patterns pop immediately up kind of fleeting (in a short while somewhat evanescent but "still in the air"), taking briefly part to the stormy ceremony. In a couple of minutes a boisterous leather-vibe takes completely the scene as the absolute protagonist, waving in the air in to a virile, rubbery and resinous (almost gasolinic) way a la Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia (which "sounds" less properly leathery, less mild, less complex but definitely more rubbery, misty and smoky). The more the juice evolves the more it turns out kind of warm, powdery-ambery and refined (yes in a more modern subtle-chic way). Probably the addition of "animalics" enhances the general powdery warmth (which is not literally a hot feel but something encompassing the senses with a kind of talky-suedish-resinous-animalic twist). Virile and multifaceted (florals, woody notes, fruity patterns, spices, suede, rubber, resins) ambery creation, though nothing properly avant-gard of particularly daring. A more than decent job in any case.
23rd December, 2018 (last edited: 24th December, 2018)
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
Whilst the is saffron in the too notes, very soon I get a leathery note. This is soft, fairly bright and smooth and has a suede hint, not bad.

The further drydown centres around rather generic wood notes with a touch of white floral with balsamic incense present at times; the latter is more on the light side

The silleage is moderate, the projection is very good, and the excellent longevity is ten hours.

This is an all right one but also a bit dull and unexciting. 2.5/5.
25th March, 2016
If, like me, you have a penchant for modern stuff, Suede by Uermi is anything but novel. It's basically a safraleine bomb with a thin woody balsamic base. It has been done, and with better results, by several other *modern / avant-garde* niche lines before.

Etat Libre D'Orange did something similar with their Tom Of Finland (by the same perfumer, BTW) which feels in comparison more complex, less rushed and more pleasantly *perfumey*. Comme Des Garcons, on the other hand, opted for a truly avant-garde iteration of the saffron-leather combo with their EDP 2011 (the one in the melted bottle) which, as for today, it's still one of the most creative use of this aromachemical.

In the end, Suede it's neither fish nor fowl and it falls in a gray area in which it doesn't accomplish a status either as an avant-garde composition or a safer one. It's just plain modern dullness.

A minor note on the packaging: The overall apothecary vibe of the label and box, makes it look like a cheaper version of LeLabo.

18th August, 2015
No +/- Suede is basically a safraleine absolute, rubbery, slightly mineral, carrying the glossy smell of new leather-look (not real leather) shoes, with a delicate sweeter balsamic-fruity side. On the very base, besides a silky ambery note, a clumsy blend of industrial smells halfway chemical, dusty, smoky, sweet/sugary and dry (I think there's some evernyl which imitates dry woody-mossy notes). Linear, clean, dry-to-the-bone, almost a non-scent given the delicate minimalism (which in 2014 smells kind of "... again?"). Basically it smells like the drydown of many contemporary leather/suede scents (imagine Puredistance M or Roja Dove Fetish pour Homme after 4-5 hours). As a fragrance itself it smells completely dull to me, but if I am not wrong, this line is supposed to be used as a range of "bases" to be combined one with another, hence the "plain" personality of the scent. Not judging their marketing choices and the "concept" but I guess Perfumer's Apprentice or similar webshops already offer a decent range of "plain smells" to combine, at a fraction of this price... well however, to me, alone or combined, still a useless scent with a crazy price. Another proof of Antoine Lie's main talent.

22nd September, 2014

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