Perfume Directory

Hermèssence Cuir d'Ange (2014)
by Hermès

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Hermèssence Cuir d'Ange information

Year of Launch2014
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 51 votes)

People and companies

HouseHermès
PerfumerJean-Claude Ellena

About Hermèssence Cuir d'Ange

Hermèssence Cuir d'Ange is a shared / unisex perfume by Hermès. The scent was launched in 2014 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena

Hermèssence Cuir d'Ange fragrance notes

Reviews of Hermèssence Cuir d'Ange

My favorite Hermèssence and quite possible Ellena's best work of the last few years.

Somehow, Cuir d'Ange is both completely weird and utterly comforting, in a way that I've never experienced in a leather perfume. It's utterly original, yet somehow familiar.

So what does it smell like? Well, that's complicated... It's got that mix of cumin and sweaty-old-man leather that Le Labo uses a lot (probably most famously in Rose 31), and it's also got a mix of brown sugar and molasses and New Orleans chicory coffee that should smell gourmand but instead is sort of leathery and woody. I don't smell most of the listed notes, but can understand, at least intellectually, how they could be background players.

Yet Cuir d'Ange is way more than the sum of it's parts - this odd combination of woody sugary funk somehow simulates the smell of a horse and simultaneously manages to not smell gross at all, despite itself. In fact, it actually smells fresh. I'm baffled how this works, but very glad to have it to smell. Highly recommended.
10th October, 2018
It was love at first scent with Cuir d'Ange and it only grows stronger. I think it has one of the most beautiful clean leather accord I have encountered. It smells like the most luxurious leather; it's clean and buttery, far from being butch or rough, even in the slightest way. The leather accord is clearly dominating the fragrance from the first second until the end. It's very slightly smoky and the heliotrope and iris gives it a nice distinct cool and buttery smell. It's soft, airy, minimalist, masterfully blended, classy. Pure luxury.
14th September, 2018
Buttery suede with hawthorn and orris undertones.
On a hot day it becomes more balmy and ambrette seedy.
The most perfect suede perfume!
18th February, 2018
Girl with a Pearl Earring BY Johan Vermeer
25th September, 2017
As I was expecting another limpid, abstract floral leather like Kelly Calèche when I was testing Cuir d'Ange for the first time, my jaw almost fell to the floor when not only did it hit me with a realistic leather, but also a fairly noticeable cumin as an companion.

However, this doesn't mean that Cuir d'Ange smells like a dirty, butcher leather. While the leather note here is mostly dominated by its barnyard-y, hay-like facet probably resulted from narcissus, it's juxtaposed with a supple, lightweight, suede-like texture (suederal?). With the presence of the cumin, there's also a clean white musk and vegetal, floral undertone, almost like a floral ivory soap. It's as if Ellena pulled the trick of the juxtaposition of dirty-clean in Cartier Déclaration again in this leather composition, resulting a convincing impression of a finely-cured real leather.

The focus on this slightly spicy, hay-like leather starts to blur with time, as the clean powdery white musk and heliotropin gradually melds into the leather, until it finally becomes a feather-like, abstract, pristine floral powdery skin scent in the late dry down. I can definitely relate to the comparison of Cuir d'Ange as a leather variation on Frédéric Malle L'Eau d'Hiver. The transition happens in an incremental pace, but I would say that starting from the 6th hour, the leather behaves more like a salty undertone undertone.

The sillage of Cuir d'Ange is close to skin, as most Hermès fragrances are; the longevity is around 10 hours on my skin.

In my mind, I would picture Cuir d'Ange as a leather made from unicorn or pegasus skin. It has this ethereal, other-worldly aura, but firmly displays an animalic (not necessarily dirty) aspect. When I try to compare it with other elegant modern floral leather, Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur is handsomely animalic but lacks this strange diaphonous aspect; Penhaligon's Iris Prima is too clean and too abstract as a leather in comparison; Louis Vuitton Dans La Peau lacks the animalic quality despite its realistic leather handbag impression, and its execution as a whole is rather conventional in style. Therefore, Cuir d'Ange strikes me as a rare exemple that manages to unify these two seemingly contradictory qualities. I would definitely recommend it as a graceful, lightweight floral leather, and a gateway animalic leather as well.
14th September, 2017
A light, subtle floral leather that is unusually cool.

The initial opening is tempered with mild spices and a leather accord that hints at high quality leather handbags. The floral notes bloom pretty soon as the fragrance starts to smell similar to some creams and body lotions. I also pick up a hint of suede. The typical airiness of Ellena's compositions is found here, and it is very Hermes. It is slightly radiant, and wears very lightly on skin. The mid phase is mostly the floral leather accord. It is followed by a similar soft and subtle dry down that is reminiscent of the earlier phases. The composition is linear to a certain extent, and has soft sillage and moderate duration on skin.

While I love the opening, it is thereafter too fleeting and rather unexciting. I prefer to go with Declaration or Eau d'Hermes when looking for a leather scent that is similarly bright, airy and radiant. Bel Ami Vetiver might also work as an alternative for some.

Overall it's quite a good composition. Definitely recommended if you are looking for a light, airy, summery leather fragrance and do not want anything striking. Definitely not a butch leather. Also, definitely would not work for those looking for something a little potent and tenacious.


3/5 (neutral)
19th April, 2017

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