Perfume Directory

Unguentum (2015)
by Onyrico


Unguentum information

Year of Launch2015
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
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People and companies

PerfumerLuca Maffei

About Unguentum

Unguentum is a shared / unisex perfume by Onyrico. The scent was launched in 2015 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Luca Maffei

Unguentum fragrance notes

Reviews of Unguentum

drseid Show all reviews
United States
Unguentum opens with a warm orange cinnamon spiced black tea accord with a mild synthetic woody undertone. Moving to the early heart, saffron spiced, slightly sweet honeyed resinous opoponax and natural tobacco mingles with the remaining synthetic woods that have grown into co-star status, adding a sharp concrete-like violet tinge. During the late dry-down the synthetic woods swap for more subtle natural smelling ones, joining the remnants of the saffron spice in support of slightly powdery vanilla from the base that is sole star through the finish. Projection is average, as is longevity at 7-9 hours on skin.

Unguentum is an interesting composition that I still after several wearings don't quite understand. The spiced orange tea open smells quite good but almost immediately is marred by initially subtle synthetic woods. Once you get past the open and the tea vacates, the synthetic woods become more of an issue though never get quite out of control as they do in so many other perfumes. The honeyed opoponax works relatively well with the extremely natural smelling tobacco, the latter reminding me of the stuff found in Bright Leaf by Murdock but thankfully *much* more subtle. If the synthetic woods could have disappeared the perfumer might have really had something, but alas they are at their strongest in the key mid-section and are a moderately odd distraction. During the late dry-down the composition completely shifts gears all to the good. Powdery vanilla has been done many, many times before, but Luca Maffei skillfully keeps the powder to a minimum, allowing very subtle woods to shine through sans their earlier synthetic qualities. This may not be the most innovative of finishes, but it certainly is a pleasant one, ending the development on a high note. The bottom line is the 160 Euros per 100ml bottle Unguentum is a bit of a mixed bag but with more good than bad, earning it an "above average" 2.5 to 3 star out of 5 rating and a mild recommendation with reservation.
21st October, 2015
Onyrico Unguentum starts with a freshly-exotic, wet-aromatic and mild intoxicating splash arousing on me for a while a sort of Versace The Dreamer/Opium Pour Homme Edp's "interplanetary" atmosphere. An inebriating blast of fresh-wet spiciness full of doping power and turning on "brio". There is a plain juxtaposition of freshly humid and powdery warmer elements in the air. Something freshly herbal, barely boozy (Pastis/Pernod conjuring) and vaguely art-deco waves in the air, an aura of bohemian literature, parisian cafe and debauchery. I detect balsam fir, something kind of eliotropic, ylang-ylang, may be star anice and blackcurrant. This spiciness is quite aromatic (in a fougere style) and gradually all at once rooty-piquant in a way conjuring me more and more progressively the classic Spazio di Krizia Uomo in a sort of ideal blend of it with the great L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Edt (Unguentum is quite close to this languid Guerlain's composition in this phase and more faintly while going on). L'Instant Pour Homme (just the EdT) is more particularly nutty, cocoa-veined and structured while Unguentum smells finally fizzy-soapy spicy and resinous. I detect a sort of "L'Instant Pour Homme's conjuring" accord of cedar, anise, lavender and patchouli but in here the scent morphs finally towards something suede-oriented and silky (with nondescript floral glimmers). I catch also a more than vague Dior Dune/Dune Pour Homme's typical freshly musky-aromatic (strong aldehydic lavender) and kind of musky-rosey-nutty languid twist (not so distant from the main GP Gaultier Classique's spicy-gingery muskiness). Finally the herbal-aromatic (vaguely aqueous) vibe is more and more evident (around and over a sort of rosey-creamy-honeyed basic sandalwood). Unguentum is neither original nor luxurious (or complex) but I can't say it isn't a well appointed fresh oriental with a decent level of elegance and dandiness. Another Onyrico's endorsed by my "thirsty" yet candidly enchanted "inquiring" nose.
28th September, 2015 (last edited: 16th October, 2015)

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