Salome (2015)
by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

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Salome information

Year of Launch2015
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 54 votes)

People and companies

HousePapillon Artisan Perfumes
PerfumerElizabeth Moores

About Salome

Salome is a shared / unisex perfume by Papillon Artisan Perfumes. The scent was launched in 2015 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Elizabeth Moores

Reviews of Salome

A real thriller. A total skank. Oh my, a classically styled wonder.

Salome is resolutely animalic. But it's also fairly floral, powdery, and faintly aldehydic. The effusive opening is uric and ammoniac and indolic, thrusting jasmine like a stadium speaker pounding out bass. The hyraceum (Africa stone) is almost imperceptible, but this deft integration is clearly in play, that sort of old book, history museum hall aura that helps invoke a sense that this perfume was made several decades ago.

Moores has really succeeded in composing something whose sum is much, much greater than its parts; again, the integration here is masterful.

Alluring, and for the courageous and the cognoscenti.

24th September, 2017
I love animalics and so wanted to love this one. It is incredible, except like ruining a great gourmet meal by accidentally dumping too much salt in, the cumin is WAY too much. I like skanky frags, but cumin is a dangerous note. Amouage Fate Man uses just enough to be interesting, but this has so much that it smells like armpit sweat. Someone who eats tons of curry and cumin forgets their deodorant. The cumin settles down after 5 min. and it gets better, but Wow! The first blast is sweaty!

UPDATE: After 1/2 hr, this settles into a very wearable animalic and the cumin has faded.
15th September, 2017
Salome.
Damn IFRA to hell. I love this idea behind Salome and its well done considering the restraints of the regulations and aroma chemicals of today that make it impossible to put out a great animalic fragrance, forcing perfumers to rely on a heavy dose of cumin to make anything smell like something naughty. It was first done in re-formulated Rochas Femme, and done well but paled to the first formula, and even Lutens MKK and his love of cumin in his cannon of fragrances. So what we are left with is a holographic idea of sexy rather than the real deal. God bless the creator of Salome that came up and executed this idea with her hands handcuffed by these agencies. This was magic to pull off what she did.

The opening is rather intriguing with a blast of jasmine and cumin, and once it settles down into the heart she is very wearable but there is always a certain level of irritation with the animalics chosen but its no where near the level of Bogue Maai. Its easily forgiven here with a creative licence of the perfumer. I feel this would be devastating on a man rather than a woman, but feel both sexes can wear this well as a modern animalic. The best part is the drydown. Worth a sample and try.
14th February, 2017
Whoa! This is one raunchy scent! This feels like one of those big, old-style vintage perfumes, rich and decadent. In fact it reminds me of another scent, from long ago, but I can’t put my finger on it. I can’t help picturing one of the 50’s screen sirens: skin tight, black satin corset, stockings, posing seductively on a fur rug. I couldn’t wait to try this one – I kept on sniffing the sample bottle (courtesy of purecaramel) all last night. This is a sexy, musky, dirty floral, and I like it. I put it on this morning, and I love the way it has evolved. I get the sweetness from the jasmine and the rose, and the lovely tang from the citrus, overlaid with the tobacco, which wafts about me very pleasantly, then I’ll get what I’m guessing is the animalic element coming out – it’s like all of the ingredients in this all leapt into bed together and got down and dirty. Sex and musk and leather and sweat with the sweetness of the flowers. I’m not normally a day-time vs night-time perfume person, but this to me is what you’d wear out on a romantic night out with your beloved, or a cosy evening in – just the two of you, curled up together on the couch, canoodling and feeding each other strawberries and sipping champagne in front of a toasty warm fire, until you suddenly pounce on each other and it’s ON! It’s dark and seductive, a total sex-bomb in a bottle. Definitely FBW, definitely on my wish list.

EDIT: I put this on in the morning, then after lunch decided to give my bathroom the damn good cleaning I had been promising it for the last couple of weeks (don't judge!). This afternoon, I could only smell this if I held my wrist to my nose - otherwise all I could smell was cleaning products. So off I trotted to the shower, and as soon as the warm water hit my skin - blam! There was the animalic note, only different this time - wild and earthy and ever so slightly rank. The heat from the water also made the flowers in this spring up again. I've never had a perfume do that before, and it was unusual but very nice.

EDIT: I meant to say earlier - this is the first fragrance I've tried with a strong animalic note to it. I walked out into the kitchen to get breakfast after putting it on, bent to pat the cat, and he hooked his paw around my wrist, pulled it towards himself and spent a good while sniffing at it. He's never done that before with any of my other scents. I wonder which bit caught his attention?
03rd September, 2016 (last edited: 04th September, 2016)
First review: 2 July 2016:
I admit I came to Salome with high expectations. On first tentative sniff, I got a ravishing whiff of what I hoped Salome was going to be--a carnivorous throwback floral laid over gobs of dirty animalics, with plenty of sweet musks and powder. I got some perfume on my hands before I closed the sample vial, and even then, I smelled it, rich and raunchy and alive, and sweet in that weird way that animal musk is sweet. I kept sniffing it and thinking about how glorious this stuff would be when I really opened that vial and let it rip.

So I did, the next day. On application, the roundness I first noticed was still there, in the barbaric yawp of civet and castoreum, married to something that hinted at jasmine and maybe rose. Then the florals fell away completely. A cloud of cumin rose from the animalics, burned my nose, and then hovered there for two hours. It was very hard to smell anything else while the cumin was present. After it receded, I could smell the sweet musk mixed with the hot cumin for hours, but only very close to skin.

There's no mistaking the provocative nature of the animalics here, so I'm not too bothered that this has quite discreet sillage. I am, however, trying to figure out what this perfume really wants to be. On my skin, it smells like a spicy Oriental, from somewhere in the neighborhood of Opium--if Opium were dazed and supine on a bed of plush musks, its spices ground to the finest powder.

I wanted those florals from the opening to bloom over the top of the animal and spice, but maybe that's just me. Maybe that would have been gilding the lily. Maybe this is all skin chemistry, and other people get a more satisfying, more balanced perfume than I did when I tested this. But I tried it again, and the same thing happened. (My skin amps bitter tones and tamps down sweetness, which is one reason I wear some loud florals.) The spice and musk in Salome actually come off a bit rugged on me. With that and its whisper of florals, I'd like to smell this on a man--if it calmed down and came together long enough for me to do it.

Neutral for now. To be revisited in future.

First edit: after a second test, I woke up the next day with the most amazing scent on my wrist. This occurred right before Basenotes went down for maintenance a few days ago on 7/28/2016. I'm buying a bottle, but the jury is still out.

Second edit: 3 October 2017
After a year and change, I've done a more-or-less 180 degree turn from (most of) my former opinion. (I also have no idea what I was talking about when I mentioned "discreet sillage," because this gal is not shy). Salome now ranks among my very favorite perfumes, from anywhere, anytime. Its ad copy reads, "Slip into your second skin," and that's how I've come to feel about it. Big, old-school florals are my wheelhouse, and Salome occupies a place of honor smack in the center. I owe the perfume, and Liz Moores, a better and more detailed review--but for now, I hope this amendment will do.
12th July, 2016 (last edited: 03rd October, 2017)
Salome was a bit of a first for me. I wasn't sure what to expect based on reviews and descriptions of this fragrance. I decided to see for myself and acquired a sample for testing.

Upon opening the vile, I was kind of weary about putting this on my skin. I had never worn anything in the realm of this pungent, spicy smelling juice before, and didn't know if I could pull it off. I wanted to give it a chance though, so I dabbed the tiniest amount on my neck and waited for my wife to declare her disgust (she doesn't usually like animalistics). But to my surprise, she actually liked this on me. I was relieved because I really liked wearing it!

The drydown reminds me of a particular incense that we used to burn in our house growing up. I will say, be careful not to overdo it; a little goes a loooooong way. Sillage is nuclear, and longevity is immortal. I love the evolution of Salome on my skin. The rosy, floral notes I smell, quickly part, bowing to the animalistic, earthy undertones and that heady tranquil incense.

This is now one of my favorite fragrances to layer. I won't wear it by itself because I feel it is too strong and a little overwhelming. By no means is it a second fiddle however. It's silage and longevity are so un relenting, it will gradually take over, and becomes the final act in an olfactory concerti. I reiterate, use sparingly, because too much of a good thing...
02nd July, 2016 (last edited: 21st July, 2016)

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