Perfume Directory

Ryder (2015)
by Ex Idolo

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Ryder information

Year of Launch2015
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 28 votes)

People and companies

HouseEx Idolo
Creative DirectorMatthew Zhuk

About Ryder

Ryder, the second fragrance from Ex-Idolo, is inspired by the history of the members clubs of Mayfair and St. James in London. Although inspired by the past, the company say that Ryder is a modern fragrance. They say: 

It is worth mentioning that although many of the members clubs started as male-only – a large number of them now invite women as well. To represent this, Ryder's distinctive character has been enhanced with a heady, indolic Royal jasmine. 

Reviews of Ryder

rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
A dense, rich and boozy woodsy note, with an overarching sweet and fairly mild tobacco impression that reminds me of the rum- or bourbon-soaked flavoured cigars one could buy in Texas many years ago. It is a sweet tobacco without harshness and minimal smokiness.

The drydown adds hints of frankincense that remain in the. Background on my skin, and a developing intense dark glowing amber gradually move into the foreground. The jasmine develops towards the end, clearly present but merging gradually with the dominant amber impression.

As far as the perfomance is concerned Therebis nothing to complain about: strongish sillage, very impressive projection and an even more impressive sensational longevity of sixteen hours - absolutely enormous.

This is a gorgeous intensive wintery creation, exceedingly well blended of high-quality natural ingredients, whose only proviso is the slow and at times too sluggish development, but with patience one is rewarded here. Overall a very impressive scent. 3.75/5
28th March, 2016
Holy amber smoke! This is a little overwhelming. Seems very sweet, as well, making it very cloying. I would go into further detail, but nothing else happens, other than softening a bit through the dry down. Not my cup, but to each their own. Pass and thumbs down.
23rd December, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States
Ryder goes on with a moderately sweet smoky amber and pipe tobacco-like accord. Moving to the early heart, the composition stays relatively linear, as moderately sweet smoky amber grows in strength, becoming sole star, with the supporting pipe tobacco taking on a slightly booze-laden cola aspect while adding a natural cedar wood undertone. During the late dry-down the amber all but vacates with its remnants turning relatively dry, as slightly powdery vanilla and faint jasmine join-in, over a dry, stark natural woody base. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at around 15 hours on skin.

Ex Idolo's first offering, Thirty-Three, was a surprisingly superb outing from relative rookie perfumer Matthew Zhuk. After being wowed enough by Mr. Zhuk's first composition, obviously his second, Ryder, merited a sniff tout de suite. Having given the new offering several full wearings on skin it is time to see how Mr. Zhuk fared on attempt two for his house. The short early answer is "OK"... Smoky amber seems to be all the rage nowadays, and it seems like only yesterday I was wowed with Tango by Masque and many others of lesser quality. Here, Mr. Zhuk pairs the smoky amber (that smells not unlike relatively sweet smoldering wood to a large degree) with a not quite believable supporting pipe tobacco accord that actually smells more like cola syrup (or at least as a significant component of the accord). More believable are the natural deep cedar-like woods, conjuring up the planks used at a tobacconist shop or maybe even a humidor. The whole thing has been done before, but the cola is something relatively new, and the execution by Zhuk is excellent. The problem, aside from the lack of innovation, is the smoky amber is just a bit too much. It initially impresses, but as time passes it gnaws away at your senses, wearing out its welcome in relative short order. The gentle powdery vanilla and vague woods in the base are a pleasant but mundane affair; welcome to a degree after the smoky amber onslaught, but ultimately meriting a shoulder shrug. The bottom line is the $185 per 50ml Ryder is the kind of composition that impresses early, but as time passes and on future wearings when one looks beyond the initial polish on further reflection really is nothing new, earning an above average 2.5 to 3 stars out of 5 and a neutral recommendation with a positive bias. If one is looking for a smoky amber composition, Tango by Masque is a superior offering outright, while also providing a bit better bang for the buck.
07th November, 2015
An erotic symphony of notes in crescendo at the start!

I respectfully disagree with the reviewer who stated that this was Tom Ford's Amber Absolute merged with Dior's Feve Delicieuse, though I can see how he arrived at this perspective. There are interludes of both, and the references are undeniable. However, this is not all that encompasses this exquisite collection of notes and movements, at least in my experience.

Perhaps it is the addition of jasmine that saves this composition from becoming simply a nice "cover" for the afore mentioned giants. Jasmine weaves in and out over and over, like a melody that never gets played enough, so you enjoy it when you hear it. It is simply well-done, and a joy to wear.

I'd like to mention that this was a complete blind purchase (as many in my wardrobe are), and anyone who enjoys these notes should not be disappointed.
10th October, 2015
I wasn’t into the first Ex Idolo release, but I saw the appeal as the scent was a reasonably well crafted drunken rose. This one is a step down in that the construction and the effect are both mediocre. It’s basically Tom Ford’s Amber Absolute merged with Dior’s Fève Délicieuse. Fold a creamy coumeric note in with a debilitated Amber Absolute and add a touch of dried fruit-like tobacco and that’s about it. Sweet, cloying, and forgettable; it’s your standard, predictable “modern masculine” sugar-cakes scent. Pure, unadulterated bro-nip.
28th August, 2015
My first response to this was:

This is Buckwheat Honey, then Mead!

As the base of the fragrance lays down on my skin, the perfume becomes familiar.

I have spent the day, in the Pastry shop, of my employer, working with, superb quality Butter, Vanilla, Winter Fruit, Cognac, Honey, Molasses. It is Christmas.

It is a scent that is at once, slightly cloying, enormously comforting, vaguely alcoholic.

This subsides and what arises, is a counterpoint to the, wet, moist, sugary, fattiness.

Whispers of a ,Non ISO E Super, Wood and a beaming sliver of Frankincense, heighten, incise the honeyed richness.

I fail to identify the alleged Jasmine, so would categorize this fragrance as Masculine, not Unisex in intent.

It's status, in relation to it's older brother.

Not as good?

Well, I would declare, it is different.

What it shares, is apparent, to me.

A common poetry, study, if you will, of a Craftsman.

Bottleworthy?

Me.

Yep.

Second response.Later...

Whoa! What was that snuck up behind, slap me on

the back of the head.

Unmistakable, the dark, damp, almost animal,

verging on orchid-like vegetable rot. Transient.

Left behind is a trail of the purest, angel

winged nectar of Jasmine.

I am however, left with a desire for more Indolic Jasmine.

For me, a

touch of Jasmine absolute,which has had the effect

of releasing the full billowing of the

extraordinary Frankincense.

For me, I am lifted to the Heavens.



24th August, 2015 (last edited: 26th April, 2017)

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