Perfume Directory

Iris Cendré (2015)
by Naomi Goodsir


Iris Cendré information

Year of Launch2015
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 19 votes)

People and companies

HouseNaomi Goodsir
PerfumerJulien Rasquinet

About Iris Cendré

Iris Cendré is a shared / unisex perfume by Naomi Goodsir. The scent was launched in 2015 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Julien Rasquinet

Iris Cendré fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Iris Cendré

Genre: Floral

“Rooty” and “doughy” have been used before to describe this scent, and I concur. This is a very poised, rounded iris composition, redeemed from being overly powdery-pretty by (yes,) a peculiar ashy note, which manages to provide just enough edge to make things feel both modern and interesting.

A little bit of leather in the background reminds me ever so slightly of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier’s marvelous Iris Bleu Gris, but the two scents otherwise travel in very different directions. Whereas Iris Bleu Gris uses leather chypre cues to evoke a kind of gentlemen’s club sophistication, Iris Cendré feels comparatively streamlined and utterly nostalgia-free. In short, an iris that doesn’t feel redundant in an increasingly crowded field.
03rd July, 2018
Mother and Child by pablo picasso 1901 Cambridge, Harvard Art Museums
04th January, 2018
It reminded me of an imbalanced Dior Eau for Men. The Iris was unsubtle and caked in sickly sweetness. Should probably have been classified as a feminine scent.
10th August, 2017
Thrills to begin, dunking the wearer in a tub of iris butter – lovely rooty stuff with hints of smooth, caressing suede and a smooth fatty density, which in this case, is ever so appealing. Its singlemindedness is the attraction. When so many perfumes drive straight into the cul de sac marked ‘competent but safe’, it’s a relief to have standouts. It’s lightly smoked, the smoke adding barely-there complexity, and there’s an intriguing cedar-spiked-with-cardamom note right in its middle which comes across like an undulation in this iris bath.
This perfume takes the earthy, doughy aspects of its starring note and stretches them without succumbing to brute tendencies. Maybe it’s the diffusive nose-blanketing quality of the violet ionones that spreads this even smoother and helps create the immersive feel.
However, Iris Cendre deflates as it goes along becoming a skin scent in a couple of hours with a spicy leatheriness creeping in that does no favours to the rather wonderful experience that had preceded it.
02nd July, 2017
Yet another iris that wants to have me for breakfast. Iris Cendre opens on a friendly citrus note that flitters off almost immediately before pulling back the curtain to reveal an orris butter accord that is almost as pure as in Iris Silver Mist. Pungent and waxy, there is something thrilling in the opacity of the iris here, and one almost feels pressed to the wall with it. Basted in an iris paste, so to speak.

The dense forcefulness of the note is emphasized by an almost unpleasantly smoky, sour cedar wood, creating an overall effect of a steel fist inside a cast-iron glove. It is not a soft opening - it is…… unforgiving. It is the Pale Rider on his horse, throwing all sorts of shapes. Why does iris cut me so deep? What did I ever do to it?

I don’t dispute the quality (or the amount) of good orris butter or iris in this fragrance. Whether you enjoy it will depend, I suspect, on how evilly rooty you like your irises. If you love Iris Silver Mist or 28 La Pausa, then you will love Iris Cendre.

But for me, the best parts of Iris Cendre are the odd little touches here and there that remind me of non-perfumey materials such as that waxy-lanolin slip to the iris in the opening notes, the steel wool fuzziness of the cedar (even though I don’t particularly enjoy the smell of it), and the rubbery, weirdly smooth-to-the-touch texture I associate with silly putty and freshly-poured latex paint.

There is also some tobacco and leather in the basenotes, but honestly, I don’t experience them as dramatically as other people seem to. To my nose, the tobacco is more of a subtle whiff of cigarette rolling papers that have just been emptied of their tobacco than the leaf itself, and in that respect, it reminds me of the also almost non-existent “smoky tobacco” that is reputed to be in Mona di Orio’s Violette Fumee. It also calls to mind the unlit, slightly ashy tobacco note from Jasmin et Cigarette, which is a fragrance I’ve come to like more and more over the years.

I suppose I should be commending the house of Naomi Goodsir for their restraint in not overloading the fragrance with smoke notes like they did in Bois d’Ascese. But a touch more smoke would have been welcome here – not only can this butch iris more than stand its own ground against it but the second half of the perfume really needs the supporting ballast. After the blazing iris beginning, Iris Cendre collapses into a faint whisper of a fragrance.
20th March, 2016
Straight out of the bottle, this densely constructed scent is dominated by a fatty beeswax quality that slowly gives way to the fragrance itself: a sliver of citrus, and then a slab of the rooty, earthy side of orris butter. When it some together--and it does--it's enchanting, with a swirl of cedar, and then smoky notes appearing like a curtain being drawn before the soft wood/waxy/floral accord. Eventually, the smoke dissipates, the curtain is drawn back again, and it gives a glimpse of bare floral iris before the drydown, which is dark and earthy enough to almost suggest leather.

18th January, 2016 (last edited: 29th February, 2016)

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End Date: Saturday Nov-10-2018 17:33:45 PST
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