Perfume Directory

Rosenthal (2015)
by Hendley Perfumes


Rosenthal information

Year of Launch2015
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
Not enough ratings.

People and companies

HouseHendley Perfumes
PerfumerHans Hendley

About Rosenthal

Rosenthal is a shared / unisex perfume by Hendley Perfumes. The scent was launched in 2015 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Hans Hendley

Rosenthal fragrance notes

Reviews of Rosenthal

Hendley's Rosenthal make me initial think of rose, of course, and rose factors in prominently to the opening with iris, creating a certain sharpness to start that for me, felt like a bit of a turn off, but the dry down reveals a lot more character, an incense/sandalwood blend with the rose that almost fosters a coffee-like vibe, a grainy, earthy familiarity and comfort that takes what was sharp at the opening and brings it home very effectively.

It contrasts the many rose/oud blends by the absence of the latter. The incense/sandalwood mix in Rosenthal is much smoother than the vast majority of ouds that I've smelled in concert with rose.

Performance is very good, and applicability is mostly leaning to cold weather, though it's not overbearing to the point that it couldn't function in warm weather. It's fairly unisex, as well, not such a delicate or feminine rose, especially in concert with the incense and sandalwood.

At $180 for 50ml, pricing is decently steep, and with a rose market already replete with contemporary entries, it may be a tough sell, but I imagine for some, Rosenthal might be just want they want out of a rose fragrance.

7 out of 10
09th March, 2017
Rosenthal is an interesting challenge. It's a new perfumer's entry into a well-travelled genre. It's a big, boozy rose, in the same broad woody rose category as the rose chypres, florientals and woody florals. Artisanal perfumery brings a new perspective to the table. Small-batch extractions of materials, inventive methods and 'outside the box' approaches ignore the boundaries of mainstream technique and can lead to novel perfumes.

One of the drawbacks, though, is the reinvention of the wheel. Self-taught perfumers run the risk of stumbling across compositional frameworks, that, while new to them, have been explored in detail by professionally trained perfumers. The risk becomes even greater with a genre that includes icons like like Amouge Lyric Woman, Portrait of a Lady, Aromatics Elixir and Nahéma. 'By comparison we suffer' and all.

Fortunately, Rosenthal avoids the pitfalls and Hendley threads the needle nimbly. The patch/rose accord is a touchstone in perfumery. Hendley plays with it smartly and doesn't try to bend it into something unrecognizable. Instead, he touches it up with cool, woody/herbal details and extracts a broad range of shades from the accord, from dark berries to flinty metallic flashes. A bready note (iris?) matches the doughy quality of the sandalwood drydown and provides a long arc from topnotes to the milky sweet drydown.

Finding inventive angles on a well-studied accord might be expected from a seasoned perfumer, but it's particularly encouraging from a new perfumer. Perhaps artistic cross-training has something to do with it. I've read that Hendley is a photographer by education and practice. He joins a growing set of artisanal perfumers who've taken their practice in other art-forms and applied it to perfumery. This hybrid-artist trend in independent perfumery is one of the most exciting developments in the field and Hendley joins Antonio Gardoni, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Bruno Fazzolari, Dannielle Sergent in bringing new ideas to perfumery through the side-door.


24th January, 2017

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