Perfume Directory

Eau de Néroli Doré (2016)
by Hermès


Eau de Néroli Doré information

Year of Launch2016
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 18 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerJean-Claude Ellena

About Eau de Néroli Doré

Eau de Néroli Doré is a shared / unisex perfume by Hermès. The scent was launched in 2016 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena

Eau de Néroli Doré fragrance notes

Reviews of Eau de Néroli Doré

The Kiss - Gustav Klimt - 1907
20th September, 2016
Starts beautifully. It really smells like Colonia from Acqua di Parma for the first minute. After that, it dried to an absolutely horrible powder. All I smelled was powder + powder. Where did the pleasant citrus note go that was first there?

08th July, 2016
For an established luxury goods producer, the trick to remaining relevant is to promise both the past and the future. The authenticity of heritage and a bright future of previously unimaginable luxury. This two-step is nothing new for Hermès. Their products are exceptional specimens of craft, but their true artistry lies in manipulating perception.

The brand’s Eau de Cologne series shares the standard Hermès bottle with the Hermessence perfumes but come in in bright, lollipop colors, a carefree alternative to the austere pastels of the Hermessence line. They are ‘note-driven’, just like the Hermessence line. (Grapefruit, narcissus, rhubarb for the colognes versus osmanthus, massoïa and paprika for the high-end.) They are effectively a ‘mini-Hermessence’ line.

Hermès tend very carefully to the symbolism of their products. The language surrounding the products might seem nonchalant but the meaning is specific and the intention is unmistakable. When Hermès launch a product, nothing is left to chance. From images of the product to the text describing it to press events, every detail is deliberate. Hermès know how to manipulate the echo chamber effect of the fashion world with an almost scientific precision. Whisper the stories in just the right places and through unquestioning repetition, they become legend.

The concept of Eau de Néroli Doré is not a new one. This strategy, Finery At All Costs, is an unsubtle one in the first place but Hermès have pulled out all the stops. Their claim of using one half of Tunisia and Morocco’s annual neroli production is an undisguised demonstration of both power and crassness. Hermès are apparently capable of putting the northern portion of a continent on hold in order to suit their product design. (And in doing so, hand you a flawless example of post colonial arrogance wrapped up with a bow.)

No theater works without an audience and here Hermès rely on the privilege that they foster in their consumers. Part one of the strategy is the scale of the act: A multinational claim on a material. Part two is the intent, which is to invite its customers to relish the frivolousness. International economies are bent to your whim. So what that an equally good eau de cologne could have been made with less sensationally-sourced, inexpensive materials? You deserve finery at all costs.

Hermès’s sentimental account of a young Jean-Claude Ellena’s learning to distill orange blossom is an attempt to give Eau de Néroli Doré a sincerity, a human scale. In classic cake-and-eat-it-too fashion, Hermès want to alter the economy of nations, but they also want to project a wide-eyed artisanal purity. For all the spin surrounding Eau de Néroli Doré, it can’t beat the perfume truism that any cologne is pretty much as good as any other cologne. It has an olfactory ‘aftertaste’ that undermines the touted neroli. It smells briefly aromatherapeutic and then like a bottle of cologne smashed on sidewalk cement.
21st June, 2016
Cabbage. Bad breath. Mothballs. Utterly ridiculous. My first experience of a scent with neroli in the name. If it weren't for Darvant and rbaker's informative reviews I'd have concluded that neroli is to be avoided like the plague.
10th May, 2016
Boring mediocrity. I'm not a fan of "art deco eau de cologne style" creations (symbol of a disappeared gentlemanly "golden" era) but if cologne must be I surely demand (for my pleasure) redolent-natural aromatic/bracing combinations, exactly what this Hermes nostalgic juice hardly could smell like on whichever kind of skin. Try Askett&English Askett Absolute and test effectively on skin what a "serious" neroli/orange blossoms spicy accord means. Eau de Neroli Dore is a typical "eau de cologne in style" neo-vintage concoction (created by Jean Claude Ellena), a juice which strikes us for soporific dullness and excess of synthetic. A powerful rush of neroli, a bitter green indiscernible addition and a faint "allegedly golden" spritz of saffron, nothing else (no citrus, aromatic herbs, floral notes, woods or musks). I'm not as slater as several reviewers around the net but I don't see any reason to recommend this anonymous fragrance to my best friend (in the meanwhile I profite of this space to tell him: Franco, you need immediately a makeover, hurry up please). Faint (almost diaphane) duration on my "criminal" skin.
08th May, 2016
Ellena departs from Hermès on a quiet note. Eau de néroli doré is like an eau de cologne variation both in strength and character. So, away with the greasy, heady aspects of neroli oil – this is a light thing that plays up the citrusy notes of neroli’s odour profile. There is a residual spiciness (more cardamom than the saffron in the declared notes) and perhaps a sliver of blonde woods for support and that’s about it. Some perfume bloggers have found it to be a crushing disappointment probably having expected a grand parting statement from Ellena.
That bad it ain’t – it’s refreshing and gentle, and the spice twist is a touch of the unusual in this genre. But it’s also completely insubstantial; it’s really a decent 5-10 euro splash cologne (with unimpressive sillage to match) posing as something much more fancy.
06th May, 2016

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