This was my favorite from sampling the first five fragrances from this line, a big, beautiful, long-lasting floral fragrance that smells like tuberose to me.
Mélodie de L'Amour is, to my nose, a powerful statement on jasmine, the filthy kind that drapes the insides of your nostrils in the matte black ink of pure indole. Very little to differentiate here at first between the flat wall of scatole that rises off a fresh turd and a jasmine decaying right off the vine, which is how all jasmines would be if I had my way. Boy, it fairly pins my ears back. There is the faint breath of rotting fruit to add moistness to the dank, flat tonality here, a peach or pear perhaps, with an undertone of acrylic paint or turps.
Later, it develops a green, rubbery, creamy cheese odor that I assume is gardenia, but it is successfully managed by that wall of jasmine and never approaches the rancid horror of Dame Perfumery’s Gardenia soliflore, which smells like black spots on butter taste in my mouth. Mélodie de L'Amour is the rare instance of a floral that smells more like an animal than a plant, joining the ranks of other bloodsucking florals such as Manoumalia, Rubj, and Une Fleur de Cassie, perfumes I never know if they going to wear me, eat me, or f&*k me.
For the first few minutes, this is a pollen-heavy bouquet of spring flowers, along with a hint of plastic. This bouquet is dominated by the type of indolic jasmine that's reminiscent of magic markers. I sense a gardenia note struggling to get through, but just when I've decided this is one of those gardenia perfumes that's not really gardenia, twenty minutes in she emerges in all her glory! Yes, creamy, true gardenia with a faintly vanillic undertone. There's a rubbery note here, too, but that lessens over the next hour, & the gardenia continues to occupy centre stage, until around four hours in. At this point I begin to get wafts of neroli, although it's not listed. Perhaps this is how my nose interprets the peach note, or there's orange blossom among the listed "white flowers". From here I detect no further change in its development, the projection goes from very good to low, & it begins to fade out after eleven hours.
Apart from the plastic note in the opening, this is a lovely floral that I would recommend for my fellow gardenia lovers to try. For myself, though, having tried the perfection that is Dame Perfumery's Soliflore Gardenia, it has a lot to live up to. And at this price point, I would hesitate to consider a purchase.
First of all, Tuberose Indol scares me.
Approached this filled with apprehension.
Need'nt have worried.
For Mélodie de L'Amour represents August 1997. I vowed that day, to my Queen, floating in the soft, fragrant winds of Maui.
Mélodie de L'Amour reminds me, that some things never change.
13th September, 2016 (last edited: 08th January, 2017)