Perfume Directory

Hermèssence Muguet Porcelain (2016)
by Hermès


Hermèssence Muguet Porcelain information

Year of Launch2016
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 16 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerJean-Claude Ellena

About Hermèssence Muguet Porcelain

Hermèssence Muguet Porcelain is a shared / unisex perfume by Hermès. The scent was launched in 2016 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena

Hermèssence Muguet Porcelain fragrance notes

Reviews of Hermèssence Muguet Porcelain

I've had mixed feeling with Muguet Porcelaine until recently. I found it a transparent, watery, melon-infused lily of the valley very much in line with the general aesthetics of Hermessence. But there is also a strange fuzzy warmth that makes it surprisingly not as fresh and crisp as other green, aqueous lily of the valley.

It's not until I read the astute and poetic review from Patrice Revillard, the perfumer behind the blog Musque-Moi, that I finally realised : yes, it's the civet (or something with a similar effect)! From then on, everything just clicked and fell quickly into place.

Even though Mr. Ellena himself doesn’t specifically affirm, it’s now impossible for me to smell Muguet Porcelaine without referencing Roudnitska and Diorissimo. The iodine-infused melon can be found in quite a few Roudnitska’s creations, especially Diorella and Le Parfum de Thérèse, while civet-laden lily of the valley is one of the most intriguing characters of Diorissimo (although I perceive it more like an indolic jasmine, despite the intention of its creator).

That being said, the smell, the texture and the mood of Muguet Porcelaine are entirely different, notably because Ellena incorporates these tropes into his haiku “writing” style, contrary to the short story of Diorissimo. Arguably, Muguet Porcelaine doesn’t have much significant evolution. The fairly transparent and watery lily of the valley and melon can be perceived right away, with the civet purring in the background with its furry warmth and a touch of saltiness to complement with the melon. However, the tension between the animalic dirtiness and the floral and fruity innocence persists deep into the dry down, where the fragrance eventually manages to unify these two aspects into a sensual skin scent.

I got a 10-hour longevity and a soft sillage.

I have to admit that I’m not among the biggest fans of Ellena. I admire his vision and commitment to perfumery, and many of them are very enjoyable, but I was rarely awed or emotionally touched by his compositions, even though it must not be easy to transform heavy materials into feather-like airiness. But his latest creations for Hermessence, first Cuir d’Ange, and now Muguet Porcelaine, challenged my preconceptions that perfumes can’t be airy, watery or transparent, and sensual animalic at the same time. And the results are fantastic, even though they sometimes don’t seem apparent at first glance. Therefore, I would highly recommend giving Muguet Porcelaine a try, especially if you happened to be looking for a modern airy animalic floral.
20th March, 2018
Smelled without the label, you would probably think this was a fairly bog standard lily of the valley, the formulation of which has been perfected by various companies. For something more original and distinctly greener you have to go to Tauer's Carillon pour un Ange, for example.

Knowing the pedigree however, it would be churlish not to admit that this is about as impeccable as you can get in terms of the traditional and well loved scent, and you can be sure there has been no skimping in terms of quality of ingredients.The lilac aspect which forms part of the lily of the valley complex is clearly evident.
05th January, 2018 (last edited: 07th January, 2018)
Baigneuses ( Bathers ) by
Paul Cézanne 1879-1880
07th July, 2017
This is a melon fragrance to me. And once I get a picture of a melon in my head, my head basically explodes.
28th April, 2017
I made the mistake to dismiss this new Muguet Porcelaine a bit too easily at first but then a couple of friends whose perceptions and tastes I keep in good regard suggested me to give it a second chance and I did. I've to say I partially changed my mind but I'm still not completely sold on this new Hermessence. Probably because, when it comes to fragrance, muguet is not exactly one of my main focuses.

Anyway, Muguet Porcelaine opens with a bizarre muguet and melon combo that while sounding as intriguing as the pleague and cholera at once, it actually works. From one side there's the bitter green floral facets of muguet but they're juxtaposed to a fresh and slightly sweet melon note that makes of this opening something novel enough to hold my attention while still not resulting overly bizarre or exactly weird. In fact, it's very likable. As usual with Hermessence, the fragrance fades pretty soon to evolve into a more conventional "pretty muguet" where the white floral facets are enhanced together with the general *inoffensiveness* of these light concoctions. Something I believe it would be very easy to wear for anyone into light modern florals done with enough class and taste to not fall into overly predictable territories.

Now, even though I'm a fan of Ellena and more generally of Hermes, I'm still not particularly fond of this new launch. I'm not bothered at all by its transparent / waterecolory character but I probably would have appreciated it more if it was launched as part of the Les Jardins series in which, in my opinion, it would have been more properly contextualized. Anyway, despite being far from the genius of other Hermessences such as Cuir D'Ange or, say, Osmanthe Yunnan, Muguet Porcelaine is still worth exploring for representing a nice twist on a genre I'm personally not particularly interested into.

15th July, 2016

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