Perfume Directory

Feu Secret (2017)
by Bruno Fazzolari


Feu Secret information

Year of Launch2017
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 24 votes)

People and companies

HouseBruno Fazzolari
PerfumerBruno Fazzolari

About Feu Secret

The company say:

Secret fire of the alchemists. Our first release in over a year! The elusive scent of orris root smolders with spice, cedar and smoke in a transformative hidden fire. Bright, joyful and ardent.

Reviews of Feu Secret

Artistic. Leans towards masculine. My husband likes it and he is not a frag-head.

Cool, dewy orris and birch beginning. A tiny bit of spice. The eucalyptus is fresh without being medicinal. The base is a powdery wood but does not lean towards the feminine.

This works in summer heat. It is never cloying. Well done!
14th July, 2018
This, is, a Fazzolari treasure, that competes
with the beauty of Au Dela Narcisse for top spot in my Wardrobe.
This time the play is with Orris.
The Star.
The other ingredients Turmeric. Pink Pepper and Eucalyptus dance around and take turns planting and taking nibbly kisses upon Carroty Accord, breaking it down slowly and drawing the attention to a halo of Cedar. Birch Tar seems subdued until I begin recognizing an incense-like accord. Yes, perhaps Birch Tar. Only a light seasoning.

Full bottle for me!
07th March, 2018 (last edited: 08th March, 2018)
This is the nicest incense mens cologne I have tried. Better than Marly's Eau du Tigre.
It starts off fresh yet not obviously mentholly with a touch of spice. Wonderfully masculine and light. I would not class this as unisex.
It rapidly drys down to just the incense which remains light and non irritating to the olfactory passages unlike most incense fragrances.
The opening is the winner and if were thus linear it would be an instant full bottle.
As it is its not for me but if you like a very nice light incense which you can wear work/play, day/night this is worth a try.

Fragrance: 3.5/5
Projection: 3/5 It rapidly becomes a delicious skin scent.
Longevity 3.5/5
25th January, 2018
Kotori Show all reviews
United States
At first blush, it's a lot of Eucalyptus-- so much that my hand tingles where I have sprayed it.

But wait...

A few minutes in and it's the day after Christmas in my dad's log cabin, with the warm smells of last night's cooking, and the brisk breeze of the Illinois winter blowing in through the screen door he has left open to air the place out from last night's log fire. Cool and crisp and woody all at once. I can almost feel the breeze off the river.
23rd November, 2017
I hardly know how to describe this scent. It is truly a study in contrasts: deeply-rooted iris that is also sweetly doughy, combined with bright, airy notes of eucalyptus, turmeric, and pink pepper. It feels almost like magic when a scent can be both mentholated AND musky (How does Fazzolari do this?). The fragrance somehow reads both cool and hot, earth-bound and sky-borne, vintage and modern. Feu Secret is intriguing in the truest sense of the word; I cannot pin it down or even categorize it adequately. It doesn't seem to fit into a category with which I am familiar. I simply have to keep sniffing.

Utterly unisex. This would make an incredible signature scent for a complex, ambiguously interesting person.
03rd October, 2017
Feu Secret is an exploration of orris, a tricky material to describe in notes. Combined with other components in a composition it has an olfactory range of that lands it squarely in the woody-floral category. Of course orris butter can also make a perfume powdery, metallic, papery, chocolatey or yeasty depending on the angle of approach so to speak. It fixes fragrant materials so that even highly volatile topnotes coast a little bit further into the heart of a perfume.

The woody floral genre has a long history of dowdiness. To most people it is the brown tweed suit of fragrance. Practical, sturdy, steady. Pedigreed but dull. Fazzolari updates the genre and reinvigorates it. He modulates a central iris/violet accord with an astringent cedarwood and an unexpected mix of herbs and aromatics. I struggle to identify the specific aromatic materials, but I recognize their properties. Warm, chilly, piquant, bitter. The hot and cold aromatics temper the orris. They divert the iris note from its anticipated trajectory and allow Feu Secret to break from the tradition of staid woody florals.

The topnotes lead with a papery, chilled iris. This cool characterization of iris is recognizable, but Feu Secret doesn't follow a predictable course. Chanel 19’s acetone, Iris Silver Mist’s frozen carrot and Masque Milano l’Attesa’s cardboard all lean in this direction. Fazzolari’s twist is to play up the common ground of iris and violet notes, painting a spectrum from platinum violet leaf through cyanotic grey iris root to a pale mauve violet flower. In the heartnotes the frost thaws and releases a sweaty note reminiscent of both skin and dough. It’s a transitional olfactory image, but one that gives Feu Secret an intimate feel. By drydown the pairing of orris and cedar create a warm unctuousness similar to creamy sandalwood.

Secret Fire is a term borrowed from alchemy, an ancient practice that summons images of wizards feverishly trying to turn base materials into gold. But alchemy was in fact an organized system that attempted to reconcile the physical world and the unseen forces that acted on it. Think of it as chemistry with a dash of physics and a huge helping of magical thinking. Secret Fire was the much coveted ability of alchemists to harness a material's hidden animating properties and transform it to their will. Alchemists famously chased a ‘universal solvent’ called Azoth that divided materials into their fundamental elements and allowed them to be manipulated by alchemists who possessed the Secret Fire.

Fazzolari’s universal solvent is orris butter. He uses it to reveal fundamental properties and break down the other materials into the classical elements of alchemy. Turmeric ignites and becomes fire. Eucalyptus is a cool plunge into water. Pink Pepper takes flight and dissolves into air while cedar’s roots clutch the soil and become earth. Fazzolari tames the elements and creates a perfume of measured contrasts. His perfumes have a thoughtful, deliberate quality, but Feu Secret gives a glimpse further. In the 21st century artists are the closest thing we have to alchemists and their secret fire is their ability to transform us with their work.

20th July, 2017

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