Perfume Directory

Black Phantom : Memento Mori (2017)
by By Kilian

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Black Phantom : Memento Mori information

Year of Launch2017
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 19 votes)

People and companies

HouseBy Kilian
PerfumerSidonie Lancesseur
Parent Company at launchEstee Lauder Companies

About Black Phantom : Memento Mori

Black Phantom : Memento Mori is a shared / unisex perfume by By Kilian. The scent was launched in 2017 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur

Black Phantom : Memento Mori fragrance notes

Reviews of Black Phantom : Memento Mori

I have a thing for the chocolatey/vanilla/gourmandy scents, but this is nothing like any of the ones I’ve tried or have in my perfume stable. On application it’s difficult to pick any one note out, however, after around 20 minutes the individual notes start to peek out, if somewhat timidly – almond, coffee, sandalwood. After an hour or so, the chocolate started to appear, but very faintly, and I got a soft, toasty, biscuity type smell, and spice. There’s also a faint dusty note too, not sure why. A few people have posted here that they smell vetiver in this, and to (or perhaps I should say ‘on’?) me that often smells dusty. This is my first go of a Kilian scent, and I was excited to try it. I like it, a lot. It’s one of those scents that you think has disappeared, but then you get lovely, albeit very faint, wafts of it. It seems to be more of a skin scent though. The staying power is astonishing – I got a good 10 hours out of this. Considering the price though (eye-watering) I’d want a lot more oomph – all of those notes should be delicious, but they’re all so faint that I have to hold my wrist up to my nose to get anything. To be fair, it could just be my skin chemistry. And what there is, is lovely, but for the same money you could easily pick up (as I already had) at least two oriental vanilla/chocolate scents, with similar notes, with way better projection. Unless you have boatloads of cash burning a hole in your pocket, definitely try before you buy.
06th October, 2017
Sugary caramel, coffee and sweet chocolate with some sweet heliotrope taking it in a vanilla direction. If you want to smell like a breakfast donut this cloyingly sweet gourmond is for you. It certainly is not for me. Yuck.
12th August, 2017
By Kilian Black Phantom is a nice addition to the line and a recipient of plenty of enthusiasm and frankly hype from the online community, especially since it immediately followed the lukewarmly-received Noir Aphrodisiac, which I've not yet tried.

Branded as a gourmand, Black Phantom lives up to the hype, a balanced mix of rum, sugar, coffee, chocolate, and caramel. Most of these notes seem to be in harmony with one another, and I confess I don't really detect the almond or heliotrope listed, but they could just minor players relative to the enormity of gourmand notes.

I enjoy the touch of caramel as I find it used less in fragrances I tend to prefer than coffee or chocolate or rum. It makes for a pleasant blend that has a touch of each of the quintet of main notes.

It's not an especially dark fragrance, though, to me. It's just very desserty and less so a breakfast type of concept.

It's important to note that Black Phantom isn't a powerhouse performer in the way of, say, Shihan/Sensei by Piotr Czarnecki that simply represents a mixture of various gourmand winter notes. Rather, Black Phantom is a very good performer, certainly up to what I'd expect of a winter-leaning By Kilian fragrance, but actually slightly more welcoming in its non-beastliness than a stronger counterpart might be.

Agreeable for men and women, and while generally a winter option, also something that could be pulled off in light application on summer nights, Black Phantom checks most of my boxes for a fragrance worth occupying, and it deviates from enough other gourmands that I'm a fan of (Bond No. 9 ILNYFA and New Haarlem both come to mind) so it has enough uniqueness going for it to be worth considering buying.

I'm an instant fan and it's on my list.

8 out of 10
29th June, 2017
What the ....? Salted caramel, melted butter and coffee dregs?? Smells like a truckstop diner, if you ask me. Now I completely understood the reason for the grinning skull. I even half-expected to see the crew of Punk'd to appear as I type this out...
19th June, 2017
Black Phantom is clearly inspired by Pure Coffee or New Haarlem, but takes the coffee gourmand in its own direction.

There's roasted coffee, of course, paired with burnt sugar caramel and that evaporated milk smell from Angel. What Phantom does differently than its coffee brethren is to leave out the forward patchouli and lavender that usually dominate the genre, opting instead for a very buttery sandalwood. It's the mix of sweetened condensed milk and butter that ends up forming Black Phantom's core - after about an hour, most of the coffee and everything else fades, leaving this milk/butter mix for most of the day.

If the milk/butter mix sounds weird, it sort of is, but it's a fun take on gourmand, bringing to mind Mexican wedding cookies or tres leches cake. I like that it's sweet without relying on overused vanilla or stupid marshmallows, but would nitpick that it's a bit tedious in its linearity once the coffee fades. But I still think it's fun and deserves a thumbs up.
31st May, 2017 (last edited: 19th June, 2017)

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