Perfume Directory

Oud Essentiel (2017)
by Guerlain


Oud Essentiel information

Year of Launch2017
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 15 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerThierry Wasser
Parent CompanyLVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton

About Oud Essentiel

Part of the Absolus d’Orient Collection

Oud Essentiel fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Oud Essentiel

It took a few wears for Oud Essentel to win me over. Despite not being listed in the notes, I now think it's probably the best rosemary perfume I've ever smelled.

In terms of smell, there's a bunch of rosemary, backed up with pine. Pretty much everything you'd expect from a European oud perfume is also there (rubbery oud, saffron, rose, and a pinch of "woody amber" chemical haze), but they mostly fade into a charred campfire smell that fuses with the rosemary (at first) and pine (later) to give everything a burnt charcoal vibe.

My parents used to have an outdoor fireplace surrounded by rosemary bushes and during parties, I used to pick rosemary branches and throw them into the fire - I loved the acrid burning rosemary smell and Oud Essentiel does a great job bringing back those memories.
04th July, 2018
Smoky leather perfect combined with a discrete rose note. After a while I can smell only the leather and after 8 hours it´s still there. This scent is, along with Cuir by Le Galion, the Holy Grail of the smoky, manly leather fragrances.
Cuir needs about 12 hours to settle down and show the main leather note, Guerlain Oud Essentiel does it after one hour and stays linear until the end of days. Nuclear projection and longevity. After 10 hours and a shower I can still smell it.
27th December, 2017 (last edited: 08th January, 2018)
This reminds me of Songe d'un Bois d'Ete. Cedar and leather are the common notes I see listed. Both of these Guerlains remind me of cumin. This isn't my sort of thing, and wearing it feels like a lost day of enjoying perfume.

Frankincense becomes more prominent in the base, and it's nicer than the first several hours.
09th October, 2017 (last edited: 10th October, 2017)
In a sea of harsh ouds, Thierry Wasser came up with a gentler oud. Oud here has been muted and tamed with saffron and rose, and diffused by bergamot and geranium. Once the bergamot and the geranium leaves, leather, cumin, honeyed rose and saffron remain. In the final drydown, a smoky leather accord remains and lingers, with only a small hint of rose and still, lots
of saffron.
It is actually quite hard to tell if TW used real oud or used an olfactory illusion to create the illusion of oud using rose, cumin, leather, saffron and a woody accord, and for that, i am quite impressed. Usually oud cannot be tamed even by rose and saffron as it dominates everything as it unfolds, but in here, you get the rose and saffron still. A petroleum-like note is present, the note that you would get from actual oud, but still, inconclusive. This is not a heavy oud, but a light, airy one, making one to wonder if real oud is present. The scent itself is basically based on the generic oud recipe: oud, rose, saffron, musk which you will smell when you walk in to any arab attar shops, but with a western twist.

Compared to the cheaper arab perfumes (not the attars) who have attempted to do something similar, but whose perfumes often smell weak and watered down, and the oud note is barely noticable, Oud Essentiel manages to achieve the equilibrium of modulating the fecal aspects of oud while allowing it to shine throughout the composition, and gives it the complexity which is the signature of french perfume.

I doubt someone from the middle east buying this as they prefer their ouds to be animalic and strong, but i do see non arabs buying this for their oud on training wheels scent. Recommended if you need an oud scent but nothing else can satisfy your senses.
16th July, 2017
I've worn this for over a day or so, and I do agree with some aspects of Monsieur's review on this, particularly I do get a certain Habit Rouge DNA in this, it has that same sort of powdery and woody feel to it in the initial stages. However, where this fragrance shines lies in the later stages.

If you are expecting this to be another rose and oud iteration then you will actually be in for quite a surprise. I was very skeptical when I saw rose and oud in this particular release, saying to myself when will this trend stop. Knowing it isn't going to stop soon anyway I went in with a very modest expectation, naturally I'm inclined to have certain expectations just by seeing Guerlain's name on it.

I admit I wasn't taken away by it on initial spray, it had that extremely familiar rubbery oud that you associate with a bunch of other oud fragrances, and the rose was there but not front and centre. After about half an hour to an hour the incense started to emerge, and the saffron took over which combining with the rose gave the overall composition a spiciness, actually at that point I felt like I was smelling more geranium than rose. So don't expect any 'jamminess' in this one.

After a few hours the geranium facets were still very dominant, but the leather began to surface, and that's when people would find any sorts of animalic quality to it. As the scent further developed the leather was more prominent - a little more sour and raw, almost to a point it was butch, but it was still no match for Dior Leather Oud or Songe D'un Bois d'Ete in terms of animalic qualities.

The rose was more spicy than jammy, the leather was more raw than dirty and the woody/oudy facets morphed from rubbery to damp and earthy. Though I highly doubt there's even a tiny drop of real oud in here I can't deny the great efforts that Wasser put into this exquisite composition. Among the massive lineup of synthetic oud fragrances in the market right now this one is a winner.
06th June, 2017
This is an amazing, beautiful scent! Rose, leather and oud are in absolutely perfect combination. All the notes are gentle and attractive. It is a joy to wear.
02nd June, 2017

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