Perfume Directory

MEM (2017)
by Bogue Profumo


MEM information

Year of Launch2017
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 38 votes)

People and companies

HouseBogue Profumo
PerfumerAntonio Gardoni

About MEM

MEM is a shared / unisex perfume by Bogue Profumo. The scent was launched in 2017 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Antonio Gardoni

Reviews of MEM

MEM leads off with an excellent billowing lavender, the kind that lets in nostril-clearing eucalyptus-like notes and gummier licorice into its usual soap-and-metal charge. This feels like fields upon fields of the stuff and it’s probably the first time it has truly excited me in perfumery (by contrast, lavender for real I find plenty exciting). Walk back into a room where you have been sitting – and there is that lavender, impossibly vital, a touch camphoraceous, fresh as a breeze. The citruses in the opening have been beautifully deployed to pair with the lavender – the bitter peel effects merging perfectly into the medicinal edge of its profile.
Hereafter, MEM diverges somewhat – on paper it had promised brassy, fat and dirty jasmine as the floral entertainment but on my skin the florals were muted subsuming themselves in the development of the lavender main theme. Bubbles of olfactory sensations keep popping – the brightness of something minty, suggestions of caramel and burnt sugar, malty comfort. So, yes, MEM is complex as has often been noted – but it’s a complexity within a clearly articulated theme. As for the animalic elements, nothing really wagged its tail at me – whatever is in here is kept well within the bounds of decency. What I appreciate most about MEM is how it zigzags between field-fresh lavender, medicine chest and grand classical perfumery of layers upon layers without any dizziness.
However, wonders be, much, much later in the day, almost without my noticing it, there was the jasmine, with not a single clean thought on its mind, doing unspeakable things with an ever-so-willing musk. The lavender was now taking a back seat, but enjoying the view, so to speak.

29th November, 2018
Genre: Fougère

Words fail.

Antonio Gardoni has taken what smelled to me like a shot at a fougère before (O/E, to be precise), but this is something else entirely. To say that MEM is about lavender is a bit like saying that Picasso’s Guernica is a picture of a bull. To belabor the metaphor, Gardoni, true architect that he is, deconstructs and reassembles the lavender in MEM to reveal an entirely new, and heretofore unimagined form.

In a pathetically inadequate and incomplete attempt at analysis, I’ll venture that part of Gardoni’s genius here was to pull hard on a couple of lavender’s loose strands. As Vero Kern had once before with her magnificent Kiki, Gardoni accentuates the weird, carmel-like facet that emerges in some lavender materials. Yet at the same time, he also highlights the bitter edge that makes lavender so thoroughly unpalatable when, in the now-fashionable manner, it is baked into shortbread cookies. (Sorry, but I’d rather eat ashes.) This, among many other things, takes place over the kind of deeply saturated medicinal/animalic background that has become a Gardoni trademark (q.v. MAAI, Gardelia, or Aeon 001.)

I will stop now, because I can’t begin to do MEM justice, but know that it’s scents like this that restore my faith in olfactory creativity.
03rd July, 2018
A heavier Jicky minus the vanilla plus the medicine.
02nd April, 2018
For me this opens double layered...a minty ice cold stark lavender riding on a slab of musky castoreum with a flowery aura floating about...changes constantly...right now it turned into something that I would swear is a Kouros flanker...combines notes and accords in strange and unusual configurations while still maintaining poise and balance...i have to add that I am a huge fan of Bogue and own several fragrances...being a lover of powerhouses, animalics , and good old school fragrances this house pushes all the right buttons for me...this fragance has an intresting balance between being light/fresh and dark/ being in a damp dusty dank dungeon and throwing open a window and having the sunshine and fresh air rush in...this is definitely a fun much as vintage juices are great I do occasionaly run into the issue of damage and being able to tell that a fragrance has not aged well and has turned...I am very happy that there are perfume artists out there creating retro classic fragrances like this to fill the place of bygone fragrances...i like the fact that I can get the satisfaction. of smelling something classic/old school like this but know that the juice is fresh and can sit in my wardrobe for a long time without worry...i get some civet creeping in now giving me even more enjoyment...bottom line - a well crafted and blended musky/flowery/animalic take on various aspects of my eyes, or rather, nose, another masterpiece from Bogue...
15th January, 2018
Bogue seems to make scents that I genuinely admire, but don't want to actually wear. Maai was a bit too bombastic for me and O/E, too synthetic, (although I nearly bought a bottle of Aeon 001). MEM, unfortunately, also fits into to my "interesting, but unwearable" category. When I took my first sniff of this fragrance, I was in heaven; for approximately a minute and a half, MEM smelled very much like the heavenly scent of a horse's mane and/or hide. Unfortunately, this amazing olfactory sensation was gone in a flash, only to be replaced by an amazing array of unidentifiable notes, which were in turn, replaced by other unknown ones. This dizzying swirl finally died down to a sort of civetty, herbally, lavendar. Although I am usually a big fan of civet, here the note lent less of an animalic growl and more of a clean, fresh urine aspect to the progression.

I think a few folks who are naturally inclined to love anything new and avant-garde in perfumery, will find MEM intriguing. It is definitely kaleidoscopic and unusual and will keep you sniffing at your wrists in sheer wonderment.
10th September, 2017
This is the perfume that made me want to start writing again about perfume, if only to spread the word about how brilliant it is and how everyone who invests in perfume as art should buy a bottle. I got a sample from Luckyscent and spent the next few days struggling to understand it enough to write about it.

My basic description would be dirty lavender marmalade: Jicky dragged through the quinoa section of the health food store, covered in earth, incense, and floor wax, and lifted up into the air with the malty fizz of champagne. All of this nestled in a burned-sugar floral accord that smells a bit like tuberose but isn’t tuberose, a complex series of smoke and mirrors designed to lead your nose out of its depth.

Unusually for a modern perfume – although this isn’t really a modern perfume – MEM reveals its true complexity in the base, where a silty, musky ambergris lights up all the other elements like a blowtorch. Antonio used real animalics for the base, and it shows. The perfume is complex, beautiful, and abstract, far more so than even Maai. By far one of the most exciting perfumes I’ve put on my skin lately.

29th August, 2017

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