Perfume Directory

MEM (2017)
by Bogue Profumo

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MEM information

Year of Launch2017
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
Not enough ratings.

People and companies

HouseBogue Profumo
PerfumerAntonio Gardoni

About MEM

MEM is a shared / unisex perfume by Bogue Profumo. The scent was launched in 2017 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Antonio Gardoni

Reviews of MEM

MEM covers a lot of ground and it covers it quickly. When first sprayed it moves too fast for precise description and feels more like slam poetry than anything olfactory. Itís a 'Tomato-Jasmine Waxed-Sultry-Jam Malted Milk-Tuned Rubber Gasoline-Flame, Drop-The-Mic-And-Howl' sort of perfume. Itís a rush.

MEM is Antonio Gardoniís discourse on lavender and it is packed with lavender. Lavender is never hidden, but you might give a double-take on recognizing it. MEM combines identifiable clues and completely new shapes and never settles for one definition of lavender. It knocks lavender from its comfortable perch in the pantheon of perfume materials and makes it sing for its supper. Working with a material like lavender has two specific risks. The first is that it is one of the most well-known material in fragrance and is consequently predictable. Trying to make it say anything new is difficult. The second is that changing the rules will always threaten a percentage of people. Dismantling an olfactory Ďbaselineí is like pulling out the rug. MEM might very well find a good portion of its audience in a state of distress or disorientation.

MEM is also something new for Gardoni. His previous perfumes for Bogue were an out-and-out interrogation of 20th century perfumery. (*) MEM doesnít look to the past as these other perfumes did. It does however share their sense of provocation. These perfumes were conceptual and they were daring. Their success was made more meaningful in large part because they risked failure so unwaveringly. MEMís risk of failure is just as great. The challenge is not just how to make a novel lavender perfume, itís how to win people over to ĎThe New Lavender.í Anyone remember New Coke?

As an olfactory object, lavender is weighted down by associations. Itís floral, herbal, medicinal, antiseptic. Itís grand-dadís aftershave, itís the grocery store wipes, itís the pastry from the bakery. Itís everywhere. Gardoni confronts lavenderís dual tragic flaw: familiarity and predictability. Rather than try to Ďreinventí lavender per se, Gardoniís trick is to make it unexpected.

A set of almost tropical floral tones steers clear of typical depictions and frees lavender from associations with aromatherapy, cleaning products and the barbershop. The perfume sidesteps the top-heart-base pyramid without settling for a linear model and the progression of the perfume has a deceptively wandering feel. An expressive collection of woods braces the perfume and a pack of animalic notes come and go as if prowling through the perfume. MEM meticulously avoids lavenderís clichťs and none of the old chestnuts (leafy greens, sudsy soap, chilly mothballs, shaving cream) find their way into the mix. By peeling away lavenderís expected characteristics and altering its momentum, Gardoni renders it abstract and bends it to his purposes.

At times the perfume seems to create a broad olfactory milieu and has a striding, environmental scale. But even when itís impressionistic (sap, soil, metal and sunlightó-oh, an afternoon working in a garden) itís remarkably specific. The accords pass by steadily, giving the feeling of being taken on a guided tour of the objects in an imagined olfactory Cornell Box. A waxed grapefruit. Carmelized tomatoes. Flowers, champagne, cats and brackish water. A bizarre collection of images? Sure, but also elegant and logical.†

The success of the perfume hangs on building new chains of associationó-constructing a new lavender. I donít get the impression that Gardoni is making an emotional appeal or trying to woo you. Rather, what he gives the audience is a richness, and more important, a clarity of ideas to play with as they care to. Whether or not the odd olfactory imagesó- coconut woods, grape-soda white flowers, doggedness, clay-rich soil, rubber citrus bark, dappled markings, orange jam, flat beer, leather-soled shoesó-speak to you or not, they have a precision that lets you string together the pieces to suit your own inclinations. I feel like Iíve been handed an extraordinary coloring-book and some crayons in gorgeous hues that Iíve never seen before. Thereís no need to worry too much about creating an imageó-the lines are drawn. Iím just having a blast discovering these new colors.

The coloring-book analogy might sound ridiculous, but Iíve found a playful mindset is an effective line of approach to MEM. For all the specificity of the perfume, Iím reminded how scrupulously Gardoni avoided getting caught in a single definition of lavender. Lavender enters this discussion as possibly the most overdetermined note in perfumery and Gardoniís role was to free it. There is an appealing modesty to the way Gardoni helps you find your own lavender rather than convince you of his.

from scenthurdle.com
20th July, 2017
MEM is a bold, positive and necessary progression for Bogue. the billowing layers of lavender manage to sidestep obvious fougere associations, which is no mean feat. MEM plunges into uncharted gourmand oriental while retaining a lurking civet card that only reveals itself in the long drydown, showing crucial restraint. this is an extremely complex and ever-shifting frag that will retain its interest for a long time. another home run but with a different bat from Signor Gardoni!
07th July, 2017

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