Perfume Directory

Tom Ford Noir Anthracite (2017)
by Tom Ford


Tom Ford Noir Anthracite information

Year of Launch2017
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 58 votes)

People and companies

HouseTom Ford
Creative DirectorTom Ford
Parent CompanyEstee Lauder Companies

About Tom Ford Noir Anthracite

Tom Ford Noir Anthracite is a masculine fragrance by Tom Ford. The scent was launched in 2017

Tom Ford Noir Anthracite fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Tom Ford Noir Anthracite

It really smells like charcoal. Then I get whiffs of cedar? then that flinty accord from tdh edt. so what is that, iso e? I don't know if I like it or not yet. It is definitely different. And singular. If I were going to own more it'd be a buy for sure, but would I wear it? It is really aggressive (smelling, not behaving) in the opening. Kinda acrid. The first two hours it projected pretty hard, and after 7 hours it was pretty quiet. It was present on my skin, but I really had to search it out. In the drydown I got a sort of ashy cigarette smell, which I actually like, because it is unabashed and centric. I applaud this fragrance for taking a risk. It doesn't suck, and you will remember it, which makes it stand heads and tails above 90% of the fragrances out there. Great value for the money here as well, as I'd consider this niche quality juice for designer prices. Thumbs up solidly.
09th October, 2019
WOW! What a great juice from start to finish. I find, to my nose, a strong tobacco note that of course isn't listed. I also do get a lot of peppery notes, ginger, leather, other spices, birch (for a slight smokey nuance) and sandalwood. I REALLY like this juice. I find it to be slightly similar to Tobacco Nuit by Atelier. Also it is way better than Amouage's Journey Man. Both are peppery but TF is just better. It is old school, so most under 30's won't like it. IF you find it in your price range and feel that a power house juice is missing from your collection do find a sample to test. You won't be disappointed. Enjoy!
20th August, 2019 (last edited: 04th September, 2019)
Too much of a riff on powerhouse masculine styles to connect with the broader market, but too sleek and linear (in that Tom Ford style) to connect with vintage powerhouse collectors, Noir Anthracite is one of those "Who exactly is this meant for?" oddities that will no doubt receive a lot of love after its discontinuation, whenever that may come. We may disagree regarding its merit, but we cannot deny just how singular and strange it is.

This scent is a blast from the past, an aggressive masculine fragrance artfully built from spice and smoke, giving off the impression of a dark cloud with flickers from red ember. It's a a dense, dry woody thing, a bit like hot coals and graphite seasoned with Sichuan pepper, a note which serves as the fragrance's centerpiece and adds to this mixture some evocation of Asian cuisine.

That this was released under the banner of Tom Ford's Signature line is somewhat puzzling, since this doesn't seem to have any mass-market appeal, but it is an intricate blend that would be tricky to layer, making it an awkward fit for the Private Blend. That it is attached to the dark, elegant, and sweet Noir line is even odder; this is a standalone thing with no resemblance to any of the other Noir fragrances.

Either way, bravo to Mr. Ford for bringing this to market. It's an intelligent reinterpretation of an older style that doesn't merely rehash the past and instead uses it to build an altogether new, arresting creation, asking what a robustly masculine fragrance might look like in 2017.

Noir Anthracite offers commendable, though not exceptional, performance, humming along on the skin as it fades into peppery ambiance. The spicy style makes it a better fit for chilly weather than warm weather, and, ideally, for evening wear.
11th May, 2019 (last edited: 09th September, 2019)
One of my favorite Chinese restaurants in San Francisco, Old Mandarin Islamic, has a dish that is simply titled "extremely hot peppers." It consists of equal parts chicken and peppers - Sichuan pepper, dried red chilis, fresh green peppers - there must be ten different kinds. Well, this should be the official scent of Old Mandarin Islamic, as it captures all the best aspects of their spicy cuisine.

In the opening I get all of the aforementioned peppers, along with black peppercorns and bergamot that comes across as bitter and herbal rather than citrus. Reminds me of the bergamot in Hermes' Concentre d'Orange Verte. It is very unique to my nose, at least compared to what I've smelled in Sephora and department stores.

I get more wood and green notes in the middle and dry down, and the "extremely hot pepper" element settles down a bit, veering more toward green, grassy pepper than fresh-ground black pepper. There's something kind of like seaweed that, when combined with the industrial coal "anthracite" of its name, reminds me of a seaside boardwalk drenched in creosote. The creosote/ocean smell is particularly nostalgic for me, so I really like that.

This is supposedly a member of the TF Noir family, but it's something of an ugly duckling in that family. It is super dry, woody, spicy, peppery, like Sichuan food over a coal fire, and it has none of the warmth or sweetness I usually associate with TF Noir scents. It's a bit of a weirdo, and maybe they just stuck the "Noir" name on it to attract more people to what is otherwise a bit of an outlier. But if you like dry, sharp scents like Gucci Guilty Absolute or Encre Noire, you might like this.
28th April, 2019
Tom Ford Noir Anthracite ignores the trend of fresh woody-ambers and sugary gourmands, and is all about peppery woods. The peppers are hot and dry, hinting at Sichuan peppers. The wood notes are bone dry, dark, earthy-metallic. I don't find any note of cedar, sandal, patchouli or oud. Instead, it smells like some new molecule/aromachemical, maybe hinting a bit at smoky vetiver. Like almost all Tom Ford fragrances, Noir Anthracite is very linear on my skin; between the initial burst of pepper to the dry down of peppery woods, it changes little. It has moderate presence, and surprisingly is somewhat quiet towards the dry down, but it does last adequately. In terms of scent profile, it reminds me of the flinty/earthy nuances of Terre d'Hermes, the peppery woods in several masculine Amouages (Memoir, Epic, Journey), some bits of Bois d'Ascese, and the austere/noirish moods of Jacomo de Jacomo or Serge Noire. Noir Anthracite is very streamlined, tailored, and perfectly wearable.

Definitely try if you like linear fragrances, and are looking for a 'modern' woody scent with no sweetness, with the emphasis on 'modern' and linear. It might just click. Personally, Noir Anthracite misses a spark or two, as it becomes more of an ambient fragrance and less of a personal scent over repeated wears. It doesn't reveal any new nuances, and doesn't keep me interested. I find the accord of pepper and woods tiresome and two-dimensional. It is adequately abstract, but lacks in complexity; the opening and mid phases are arresting, but the dry down is underwhelming. The frustrating issue with Tom Ford's fragrances is that they often promise an uncompromising endeavour to showcase a particular note or accord, and deliver on that with compromises to everything else. Noir Anthracite, just like Ombre Leather released a year later, is no exception. It isn't bad, but it isn't good enough.

04th April, 2019
Tom Ford Noir Anthracite (2017) is quite literally a kick-ass blast from the past dropped into the laps of unsuspecting buyers at a time when the style it represents was no less than 30 years (or more) out of fashion. In a move similar to the original Tom Ford Noir (2012), Tom Ford Noir Anthracite focuses on some really old-school notes you won't quite see combined in the same way it does without literally plucking some discontinued vintages off of eBay (for exorbitant prices in some cases), but Noir Anthracite goes for more of a late 70's/early 80's feel while the original Noir feels more mid-century in tone. By this description, and with an additional gleaning of the notes listed, one can expect a dark, smoky, leathery, and mossy experience oozing with unabashed masculinity. Noir Anthracite lives up to its name by being black as the pitch which it is named after, and fans of that "liquid chest hair" vibe a lot of masculine perfumes released during the emergence of the powerhouse should take note. Perfumer Honorine Blanc really did her homework here, as nothing like this would be expected from a perfumer with a resume mostly focusing on post-90's styles. I still prefer the original Noir better than this because it has more of a dandy quality with its florals and small puff of powdery civet, but Noir Anthracite easily out-performs Noir Extreme (2015), which itself is the most modern and mass-appealing entry.

Tom Ford Noir Anthracite instantly come out the sprayer like a close cousin to Jacomo de Jacomo (1980), utilizing a dry bergamot paired with a very smoky vetiver that quickly shifts into an almost mineralic sharpness aided by galbanum and black pepper. Further spices like nutmeg come into the heart to smooth things over just a bit, and a teeny puff of jasmine hedione also lends some effusion, but the base is a wrecking ball of woods and aromatic tones that drags us back screaming into the early 80's once again. Birch tar, cedar, Macassar oil (derived from ebony as a once-popular hair tonic and subject of masculine perfumes), oakmoss, leather, and patchouli swirl together into a heady blackened grog that is very reminiscent of what you might get if you layered Jacomo de Jacomo with the long-gone Ted Lapidus Pour Homme (1978), but with patchouli replacing the boozy honey notes found in the latter scent. Despite all this extreme machismo, the eau de parfum nature of Noir Anthracite has it emitting an intense but tight bubble of scent that makes up for projection with lots of longevity. The question is, where would somebody wear something like this in the 21st century, and what market would this even serve? One thing's for sure, this scent is best served up in chilly weather, because something this smoky and dry would come across irritating in summer or late spring, as it is essentially a modern interpretation of a powerhouse fragrance that somehow passes muster under IFRA regulations.

The answer to the first part of that question in nowhere, or anywhere you want, since something this anachronistic cannot be given an appropriate context. The second part of the question is obviously old-school vintage cologne guys who have mostly given up the hunt for replenishing their prized discontinued scents and aren't against dipping their toes into niche or prestige price points to find something modern but comparable; such has mostly become the market Tom Ford has staked out with his signature line for Men, in addition to many of his even-pricier Private Collection releases as well. Tom Ford has made a mint remaking his favorite vintage styles with luxury price tags, a move the British perfumer Roja Dove took to the next level with much of his lines as well, so Noir Anthracite comes as no surprise to me, and is damned good for what it is, even if a tad steep in price at retail. Noir Anthracite may be a little too anachronistic even for its own good, or just focusing on an era that hasn't aged well or been gone from circulation long enough in the eyes of the modern tastemakers that tell us we all need to get compliments, for it is hard to find the stuff at most department stores, but can be ordered direct from Tom Ford or sampled easily enough at dedicated perfume shops. I don't see the smell of this one floating over too well with the folks who usually brag about having Tom Ford (just like the original Noir), but that's part of its charm to me. Thumbs up!
04th April, 2019

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