Perfume Directory

Une Amourette Roland Mouret (2017)
by Etat Libre d'Orange


Une Amourette Roland Mouret information

Year of Launch2017
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 17 votes)

People and companies

HouseEtat Libre d'Orange

About Une Amourette Roland Mouret

Une Amourette Roland Mouret is a shared / unisex perfume by Etat Libre d'Orange. The scent was launched in 2017

Une Amourette Roland Mouret fragrance notes

Reviews of Une Amourette Roland Mouret

Mostly straight up akigalawood on me, then a bit of clean powdery kicks in, and it's just kind of dull and slightly peppery. Not a fan.
26th September, 2018
10is Show all reviews
United States
This fragrance was my first with ELDO, and I was advised by the extremely knowledgeable expert at a niche perfume store in London that collaborations with the brand tend to produce better fragrances than the in-house creations. While my comparison was between this and Secretions Magnifique, the advice was very true.

Not to take anything away from this fragrance, it opens with a floral and slightly incensy vibe. While not listed in the notes pyramid, my nose picks up jasmine, and not just any kind, Arabian jasmine, indigenous to the South Asian region. This is a balanced and floral charmer, with the woody jasmine note taking over after the first few minutes. Definitely unisex, definitely worth a sniff.

Rating: 8/10
02nd May, 2018
A perfume of glamourous evasion, leading one on with promises, reminding one that anticipation is pleasurable in itself. From its fizzing start, like the fine stream of champagne bubbles in a tulip, to its lovely dough-and-blonde-leather iris segue, to the breezy not-quite neroli, rather something cool and vaguely orangey but also floral, to the sprinkle of pepperiness that seems to have a pale green flush (apparently the denatured patchouli that is the Givaudan discovery Akigalawood), this is a perfume that shifts constantly, but keeps a smooth, sophisticated veneer throughout. Its ‘not quites’ seem to be ripe with possibilities, all contained.
It isn’t a loud perfume when it begins and when it finally settles around a vaporwave fantasy neroli it does get really quiet – if this is a crush as the name suggests, it is a bashful one.
16th March, 2018
Perfume marketing tends to induce tsumami-sized eye-rolls in me, so I have a love/meh relationship with Etat Libre d'Orange. Love the perfume, cringe at the 'stories' the brand gives each of its perfumes. The scene-setting melodrama can be interesting as a side-bar, but the 'story' is irrelevant to the experience of the perfume. So when a friend recently turned me on to Une Amourette I started the odd little two-step I find myself doing with most ELDO perfumes: enjoy the perfume and just ignore the story. But the dance takes enough effort that I eventually give in, read the text and have a laugh.

I had just written some quick notes for myself that started with, "It’s a lovely, conservatively proportioned floriental. A contemporary take on a traditional genre." when I decided to take a peek at ELDO's take on Une Amourette. There designer Roland Mouret's is quoted: "Une Amourette is a no-holds-barred fragrance. It is not for everybody. It’s divisive. It will corrupt the fragrance category with its subversive positioning." Oh, for fuck's sake. Really?

Une Amourette isn't divisive or subversive in the least. But you know what? It's gorgeous. Forget corrupting categories and just dig the feel-goodness of Une Amourette--that's where this perfume hits its stride. A peppery citrus opening is the freshest, though not necessarily the brightest moment of the perfume. Matte, spicy, creamy-powdered florals illuminate the perfume from within and transfer their glow to your skin. A mineralic vanilla-almond accord forms a backdrop for the skanky white florals and reminds me of the way Bellodgia set a spicy carnation against a chewy marzipan stage curtain for maximum effect. Here the result is less powdery, more mineralic and far more modern than comparison to the old Caron perfume might imply.

The heartnotes blend into a listless olfactory image of vintage suntan lotion. The particular combo of solar florals and creamy woods actually suggest a whipped-smooth beige or khaki tone. The almond-vanilla accord reinforces the image with a matte sand or putty tint, but perfumer Andrier takes a page from Coco Chanel's book. What you notice in historical images of Chanel's collections is not the plainness of the color but the uncluttered design, the perfect drape of the fabrics, the impeccable tailoring. The difference between the perfect beige and dinginess is slim and the potentially dull ‘color palette’ of Une Amourette could have been its downfall.

Like Chanel, Andrier's manages to make the olfactory ‘color’ chic. She reassembles olfactory cues to shift from a beige hue to tanned skin, from flowers to sun tan lotion. The perfume’s easy finish and seamless transitions make it an effortless wear but don’t disguise the details. The floral accord's heavily indolic breathiness reinforces suntan lotion's implicit suggestion of parading flesh barely contained by swim trunks and bikinis. Andrier gives you skin and sun. Flirtation and exhibitionism. Skip Mouret's story of corruption and subversion. Just dig the potential of Andrier's suggestive scenario and fill in the rest for yourself.

02nd March, 2018
cacio Show all reviews
United States
A nice big patch. Highlighting the eary, warm, ambery aspects of the material. Not as unique or intriguing as other perfumes of the brand, and perhaps not necessary if one has other patch perfumes, but very enjoyable nonetheless.
14th December, 2017

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Etat Libre d'Orange (ELDO) "Une Amourette, Roland Mouret" Fragrance, 50ml/ 1.6oz

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Etat Libre d’Orange Une Amourette Roland Mouret 30 ml

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