Perfume Directory

Ummagumma (2017)
by Bruno Fazzolari


Ummagumma information

Year of Launch2017
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 28 votes)

People and companies

HouseBruno Fazzolari
PerfumerBruno Fazzolari

About Ummagumma

The company say:

Among other things, Ummagumma refers to an infamously heady and weird Pink Floyd album from 1969. Chocolate and tonka bean create a euphoric gourmand opening melded with the richness of tobacco that gradually gives way to ambery labdanum, cedar and incense all warmed by soft musks. Perfect for a night out…or a night in.

Dark, rich, mysterious, intoxicating amber with chocolate, tobacco and woody notes. Loaded with real tonka bean absolute!

Reviews of Ummagumma

4 stars... Right away I can smell the chocolate, leather, labdanum, and saffron; these are what stand out. This is a heavy blend of "stuff". A colder weather scent. Dried tobacco note is "just right". Sandalwood, cedar (always that damn cedar), Tonka, and vanilla rise to the occasion with a dark, smoldering boozy sweet. Carnation and suede-leather under it all. A quite lovely, unisex "oriental". It's not quite several species of small furry animals gathered together in a cave and grooving with a pict but, it's close.
16th December, 2018
Wonderful Fazzolari blending and careful use of flavouring. Certainly an easier daily wear vis a vis
the Cadavre.
Certainly little overpowering Wacky in drydown.
Just a little too wax crayon for my taste.

I've just been told I'm naughty for not pointing out the incense. Yes, background drydown whispers of Heeley Cardinal add some interest, however, I'm most taken by other Fazzolari work.
Like Vetiverissimo ooh lala!
28th October, 2018
Ummagumma is a triumph in my book. The sum of it's parts makes for a completely enjoyable fragrance experience.

The opening starts with the best chocolate cake, or cupcake note I've yet to encounter in perfumery. It's a rich and decadent chocolate note that smells as densely chocolate as a super dense piece of cake you buy at a fancy restaurant. You know the cake. One piece weighs about a pound and costs several pounds.

This chocolate fest transitions pretty quickly into a saffron note that is pretty prominent to my nose. This brings on an almost animalic quality to Ummagumma, but here's the triumph part for me. I actually enjoyed this and wasn't overwhelmed like I generally am with the super animalic, musk type fragrances that many love, but I just can't get into. Rather than smelling like I'm waiving a piece of chocolate cake under my nose while taking a tour of the mink farm, Ummagumma smells chocolatey, with a slight musky kick, but it's blended so amazingly well at just the right levels in my opinion. Ummagumma smells different from a distance than it does nose to wrist once the saffron kicks it up a few notches. The saffron is still present in the dry down, but it mellows as the sandalwood, cedar, frankincense and labdanum bring on some of my favorite notes. The blending of this fragrance and the overall composition is so impressive to me. I know I'm not an expert, but the more fragrances I wear, and the more I spend time with different fragrances, I feel like I'm at least getting a base line feel for some of the amazing perfumers and their creations. This is my first dive into the art of Bruno Fazzalori, and I've got to say that he has an amazing fragrance in Ummagumma. It's special from start to finish and I just want to congratulate him for such a fine work of art! Thank you Bruno!
03rd March, 2018
The test of a feel-good perfume is versatility. Wear a light dose or douse yourself. Keep it at wrist distance or huff it like poppers. Warm weather, cold weather. Dress it up or go casual. The better feel-good fragrances hover closer to the center of a set of olfactory dynamics rather than at the extremes. It's what makes them versatile and appealing over time. The question is how to make the middle ground interesting.

Amber perfumes have a pitfall: the resinous materials they're built from smell really good. Labdanum, olibanum, tonka, vanilla and sandalwood are considered stand-alone perfumes. The risk, the trap really, is highlighting materials at the expense of composition. Old-school oriental perfumes avoided the hazard by making complex, larger than life scents. Unfortunately, their lavish style makes them a bit rococo for modern use and their orientalist origins weigh them down even more than their dense base notes do. The costume, play-acting cheesiness of orientalism can seem both mannered and childish to the contemporary sensibility. Modern indie amber perfumes have the opposite challenge. They run the same risk as the stoner amber oils of the hippy era from which they derive: oversimplification.

Fazzolari finds a balance point somewhere between the two positions and Ummagumma avoids chinoiserie at one end and oversimplification at the other. While it's clear he looks closely at his materials---his palette---it seems that the materials don't so much drive the composition as provide the medium for Fazzolari to illustrate an idea, in this case how to integrate the classic oriental and the indie amber.

Two examples: First, the way that the creamy, vanillic tones are nested deep in resins is old-school, but by avoiding the rest of the classic oriental’s luggage—the aromatic topnotes, the warm floral bouquet, the heavily accessorized style—Ummagumma taps into the richness of vintage orientals while easily side-stepping the melodrama. Second, the perfume's chocolate is unmistakably gourmand and the note is a nod to the contemporary style of gourmand ambers, but there's a twist. Many modern amber perfumes have discovered the easy link between dessert notes and resinous materials but relying on lazy combinations gives the perfumes a passive quality. The accords might be pleasant but they just lay there. Ummagumma builds a chain of associations and makes the chocolate more than a candy treat at the center of the perfume. Chocolate suggests cocoa, which in turn hints at powder. The bitter powder fuses with the sweet resins and an unexpected dry carnation note to give a hint of animalism that that makes it seem neither traditional nor trendy.

Ummagumma is new territory for Fazzolari. (sort of *) It's a gourmand amber and it's unlike anything else in his line. Most of Fazzolari’s perfumes play with their genres, often using volatile and aromatic topnotes to situate themselves in their genres and then fucking with your expectations once you start to get settled. Fazzolari is able to hold seeming contradictions in place without easy resolutions. He takes advantage of the vibrancy that come from contrasting dynamics, but leaves the debate open, giving the perfumes a touch of friction that makes them so interesting over time. Ummagumma stands between the classic oriental and the indie amber without conceding to either. It's the sort of nuance that distinguishes Fazzolari's work from many of his indie contemporaries and keeps me coming back to his perfumes.

* Ummagumma has definite ties to Cadavre Exquis, a perfume created by Fazzolari and Antonio Gardoni. They used gourmand and resinous accords to create jarring effects. In tone, Cadavre Exquis is miles from the mellow Ummagumma. Comparing the two brings up a question for another day: What happens when you use a similar set of notes to express completely different ideas?

02nd March, 2018
Ummagumma is surely Bruno Fazzolari's most delicious composition yet, a mostly-gourmand blend of cacao, labdanum, vanilla, tobacco, and woods.

It's sweet, creamy, resinous, and woody. Quite likable for lovers of sweet and gourmand fragrances, similar but not as a sweet as Kyse Perfumes as Ummagumma lacks the graham cracker vibe, it's also a bit like Slumberhouse Ore but without Ore's signature pepper strength. Tobacco gives Ummagumma some character, as well, rounding out the sweet/woody pairing with a slight edginess. Carnation and leather are listed notes, as well, but I don't really detect either. Perhaps the leather just mixes well with the tobacco, though.

Performance is very good, strong in both projection and longevity. Based on the performance, the $125 for 30ml price is more warranted for Ummagumma than perhaps for any other of the house's offerings.

This very well might be my favorite release from the house to date, along with Five. Very impressive, a gourmand creation that is nonetheless sophisticated and even restrained in certain ways but certainly amounts to an amalgam of interesting notes, expertly blended. Bravo to Bruno!

8 out of 10
12th February, 2018
This is delicious...munching on a chocolate bar in church sitting in an ancient wooden pew...ambery chocolate incense...dry tobacco...the kind of heady richness found in a lot of Serge Lutens and Slumberhouse...a little smokiness...a gourmandish amber/incense...supported nicely by dry tobacco/ my taste , full bottle worthy...has a nice throw...nice warm/dry feel that would suit winter rotation nicely...If Amouage did a gourmand incense I can picture it being akin to this juice...
12th December, 2017

Add your review of Ummagumma

You need to be logged in to add a review

Shop for Ummagumma products online

Search for on eBay

Bruno Fazzolari - Ummagumma Rm 237 Monserrat Five Lampback - Portfolio . - NIB

$49.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Tuesday Feb-26-2019 11:19:36 PST
Bid now | Add to watch list

Bruno Fazzolari 5 X 1.7ml: Five + Monserrat + Lampblack + Room 237 + Ummagumma

End Date: Saturday Mar-9-2019 7:39:50 PST
Buy It Now for only: $73.50
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Member images of Ummagumma

There are no member images of Ummagumma yet. Why not be the first?

You need to log in or register to upload images

Private Notes

You need to be logged in (or register here) to use Private Notes.