Perfume Directory

Fleur de Peaux (2018)
by Diptyque


Fleur de Peaux information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 16 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerOlivier Pescheux
Parent CompanyManzanita

About Fleur de Peaux

Fleur de Peaux is a shared / unisex perfume by Diptyque. The scent was launched in 2018 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Olivier Pescheux

Fleur de Peaux fragrance notes

Reviews of Fleur de Peaux

This opens with a drier Grappa than the Chanel 18. A blast of Carrot has the Iris just a little larger than life, I suppose to attract the "American" palate. Remarkable also, is the power of the Powder, which is presented, as a contained explosion.
JTD is correct in that structure is similar to, turning the page of a Picture Book to reveal a brilliant subject, with only whispers of the other notes. Gentle Musky Rose appears, opaquely, around the edge, for me.
I expect broad North American appeal as the lay upon the skin is somewhat Vintage "Tide" clean.
The drydown has telltale signs of Givaudan WAC, however, that, does not get in the way of the "Delightful" story.
Fits nicely in my wardrobe,between the 18 and Feu Secret.
27th October, 2018
Dyptique’s Fleur de Pear was released about a year after Le Cri de la Lumière and is also based on an ambrette accord. If I had to characterize the difference between the two, Le Cri stems from the overlapping of its notes and accords and Fleur de Pear is build from a sequence of consecutive musk accords that appear one after the other. Convergence. Divergence. Two different approaches to ostensibly similar accords.

Fleur de Peau moves very differently than Le Cri. Wearing it is like strolling from room to room in a large house. Each musk is joined to the next in a chain. The top note is a papery iris. Then a starchy musk à la Mugler Cologne. Then a grainy pear, then shoe polish, then waxy skin. No accord goes away entirely, but they don’t merge. They just reappear periodically. This olfactory junket is captivating in that it’s so meticulous and methodical. It’s not just the aromas that oscillate, it’s the tones. The iris is cry and crinkly, the rose is sheer, the pear is grainy, the skin note is fatty and waxy. The accords maintain their edges and don’t bleed into each other. They simply rotate.

Diptyque’s ambrette is more animalic than Perfume d’Empire’s and it’s very human. The Diptyque ventures much further into the sweaty-skin facet of ambrette, which can make the perfume seem a bit odd as it moves from sweat to laundry soap to floral bouquet. If you tune in closely to the perfumes fluctuations, though, it’s compelling.

The specificity of the composition creates an interesting opportunity for perfume critics. The fluctuation of the perfume, its progression through distinct olfactory territories creates the opportunity to consider composition without referring to formula per se. It can be described in terms of its qualities and can be analyzed based on its dynamics. Any perfume can be viewed this way, but Fleur de Peau lends itself particularly well to this approach.

27th June, 2018
Stardate 20180503:

One of my favourites this year.
Musky Rosy Iris. I dont think many have tried to make this combination.
Dior's Gris Montaigne has the similar musk-rose accord but is more loud. The iris in P'eau mutes the accord and gives it a soft glow.
I wish they had use the more animalic musk instead of the white one. But I will take it.
Performance is excellent - which is expected from Diptyque.

03rd May, 2018
Fleur de Peau opens with a lovely iris on my skin: slightly carroty and mostly woody. There is nothing overly metallic or rooty, nor is it excessively starchy thanks to a discreet buttery sensation of orris.

What soon follows is a soft, vaporous white musk light as a feather. Tiny sparkles of fruity spiciness and fruity liqueur nuances stemming respectively from pink pepper and ambrette pop out here and there, but are rather short-lived. The musk feels mostly clean without evoking laundry products, partly owing to the vegetal sensation of ambrette.

Iris and musk then start this long, graceful waltz. There is at first a very faint animalic nuance about 30 minutes after initial spray. Combined with the soft creaminess of iris, it creates a fleeting illusion of a plush yet lightweight suede. Later on, as this humming warmth dissipates, the airy musk is infused with this cool, almost minty sensation of geranium and the fluffy, delicate sweetness of heliotrope. The resulting chiffony skin scent is at times clean and vegetal, and sensual with a delicate musky sweetness.

I suppose the name comes from "à fleur de peau" in French, and it indeed stays extremely close to skin. I actually got a 9-hour longevity, but as the scent itself is very diaphanous, I frequently thought it disappeared, only to find it still lurking around when sticking my nose on my wrist. And the last 3 hours mostly smells like the kind fo clean white musk in the late dry down of Penhaligon's The Revenge of Lady Blanche and Byredo Blanche.

While I'm not bowled over by Fleur de Peau, as a fragrance inspired by clean skin scent, it's solidly made in the effortless elegant style of Diptyque, easygoing without being banal. I'd definitely recommend it to those who are looking for a gauzy musky skin scent with a beautiful iris touch.
06th March, 2018

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