Perfume Directory

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Sophie Labbé (2018)
by IFF


Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Sophie Labbé information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
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People and companies

PerfumerSophie Labbé

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Sophie Labbé

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Sophie Labbé fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Sophie Labbé

A bright green opening that reminds me of something like angelica: spiced, bright, zesty green. Very synthetic, but I enjoy the top.

After that, sadly, it goes downhill for me. I get a quickly progressing melting plastic note that I've come to associate with overdoses of ambrox. It gets sweeter with a soft laundry-type musk going in the background, but that plastic ambrox accord just ruins things for me.

Oddly, this note is more evident in my sillage than sniffing up close. Every once in awhile I just get this sharp plastic waft. Putting that aside, this scent feels polished and streamlined, and those interested in such a take on a zesty green-fresh cologne maybe interested.
07th January, 2019
The pitch of Sophie Labbé's creation for 2017 Speed Smelling is to compose an Eau de Cologne without actual citrus essences such as lemon or bergamot, but using ginger and elemi instead to recreate the citrus aspect, and coriander seed and pink pepper to supplement the spicy tonality. The resulting fragrance, at least to my amateur nose, is fairly convincing.

Without trying to dissect each note, upon spraying the fragrance, I can smell an invigorating burst of the lemon-y and fresh spiciness of ginger, the peppery and herbal of bergamot and a charming sappy verdency like crushing leaves between fingers, which perfectly conveys the refreshing sensation when applying an Eau de Cologne.

The fragrance then gradually loses its initial tonic energy and slightly sweetens with time. It also becomes more woody, a little bit powdery and more musky as well in its dry down. It mostly stays close to the skin, but its woody musky stage streches its longevity to at least 7 hours on my skin.

On the surface, this fragrance doesn't seem like a novelty, just a good standard Eau de Cologne with a noticeable ginger twist. But in light of its technical achievement, I find it quite successful and innovative. Although it evetually sizzles out into a soft woody musky skin scent in the dry down, I guess it's kind of unavoidable if now the longevity is an imperative demand even for Eau de Cologne type of fragrances, originally designed to be enjoyed at short moments.
20th November, 2018
Opens with a huge citrus blast alongside a very green, cut-stem accord. There is a bit of spiciness coming from the ginger, but it’s very subtle. As it opens up the floral aspects begin to come out and a really soft musk starts to appear behind everything. This is probably the most interesting stage of the fragrance and I actually really enjoyed it up through this point, but the dry down ended up being a generic white musk that left me wanting more. Good fragrance overall.
11th September, 2018
Fake cologne, thank God
Will prove to be a very
Long-lasting problem.
08th September, 2018
Stardate 20180620:

Starts bitter green with pepper. Maybe galbanum. Turns into nice cologne. Citrusy without neroli.
25th June, 2018
The Labbé scent has a nice longevity and a very pleasing drydown. It opens with a citric elemi, very fresh, that reminded me of Eau Sauvage Parfum. Despite the write-up on this one saying that she didn't use any citrus, the elemi itself has a strong citrus presence like pressed lemon rind. Interwoven with the elemi is a crisp ginger note. In the mid-period, the fragrance turned slightly chalky or powdery and introduced notes of bergamot. The bergamot was on the sweeter side, but soon after hints of spice came in that I thought were close to cloves (the write-up indicates pink pepper...that's must be what read as cloves to me.) The skin scent drydown had a long tail, becoming sweeter and smoother over time. It was like a lavender/bergamot creamsicle with hints of sweet cloves. Very nice.
17th May, 2018

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