Perfume Directory

Bleu de Chanel Parfum (2018)
by Chanel

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Bleu de Chanel Parfum information

Year of Launch2018
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 38 votes)

People and companies

HouseChanel
PerfumerOlivier Polge
Parent CompanyWertheimer

About Bleu de Chanel Parfum

Bleu de Chanel Parfum is a masculine fragrance by Chanel. The scent was launched in 2018 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Olivier Polge

Bleu de Chanel Parfum fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Bleu de Chanel Parfum

For sure my favorite of the three, which is not saying much since I dislike both the edt and edp. It opens with a very natural grapefruit, already I should be turned off, not big on grapefruit especially since it's been so played out for a number of years most often quite cheaply, but here Chanel quality nothing to complain about. Soon the lavender gets upfront with the same drugstore aftershave gone upscale (as Zealot observes) as can be found in MFK Masculin Pluriel, at this stage they smell quite similar from what I can remember. After a couple hours I get more sandalwood and vetiver a la Sycomore. Where is the Bleu you might ask? It hovers above and along quite pleasantly, stripped of its most obnoxious traits (woody ambers overdose) for old school dudes such as myself
I like Masculin Pluriel and love Sycomore and I enjoyed Bleu Parfum, not quite sold though, it's available in 50 so I might plonk the 100.
01st October, 2018
What does a house like Chanel do when their biggest-selling male fragrance line since probably the first continues to sell well nearly a dacade after it's launch and without the aid of a myriad flanking varieties? Like it or not, the final mainstream masculine work of Jacques Polge, his commercial "aquatic done right" which finally placed Chanel into a category it was more than twenty years behind on, was a smash success, and Chanel was smart about not fixing what "ain't broke" and handling the line like a feminine one, with alternate formula tweaks via concentration levels rather than entirely new flavors wearing the Bleu de Chanel (2010) badge a la their Allure Homme (1999) line. The latter frankly needed the variety to survive after the Y2K mediocrity that was the original pillar, but such isn't the case here. Jacques Polge took one final stab a year before retirement making an eau de parfum version of Bleu de Chanel simply called Bleu de Chanel Eau de Parfum (2014), and it was a slightly warmer, sweeter, more ambery take on the original that supplemented heavier doses of the ambroxan and norlimbanol the original contained with additional citruses and an old-fashioned vanillic composite amber note. I personally didn't see that one as an essential purchase for owners of the more complex and dynamic eau de toilette, but folks who hadn't yet entered the BdC game might dig it. Jacques Polge was tired, and ready to hand the reigns over to his son Olivier Polge, who had trained under both his father and Chanel artistic director Christopher Sheldrake, so it wasn't much of stretch to imagine that he didn't really try much with the eau de parfum before turning in his keys. Bleu de Chanel Parfum (2018) answers the question first posed at the beginning of this review, and is the first official masculine outing from new head perfumer and prodigal son Olivier Polge. I feel like Bleu de Chanel Parfum is a direct reaction to competitors like Dior Sauvage (2015) and Yves Saint Laurent Y for Men (2017), as both of them continued upping the ante with ambroxan and norlimbanol in a "loudness war" for the title of screechiest chemical fragrance of the century (and I like Sauvage so I say that kindly). Bleu de Chanel Parfum keeps itself distinguished by moving not up, but to the side, offering a fundamentally different experience from the core pillar of the Bleu de Chanel line, unlike the erstwhile EdP.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum sees Olivier Polge strip away a lot of the rather impressive blending his father did with the original Bleu de Chanel note structure, and indeed hacks away at unessential notes too, with a lot of the citrus outside the grapefruit gone with the wind. In their place, Olivier introduces a rounded French lavender, giving a link of sorts to the fresh fougère genre of the early 90's citing examples like Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein (1989) or Paco Rabanne XS Pour Homme (1993). Pink peppercorn surives the cull, while the dihydromyrcenol and mint are kicked up, giving the parfum a stronger "dryer sheet" aquatic lean not unlike Wings for Men by Giorgio Beverly Hills (1994), but these notes rush into the heart very quickly and all but the mint drops off. There, in that glorious middle, cedar joins this mint, alongside labadanum and ginger, with the rest of the old heart also excised from the composition. The base of Bleu de Chanel parfum is where the most dramatic difference lies between it and it's fore-bearers, since the ambroxan is turned up but the norlimbanol turned down, and some form of Australian sandalwood (New Caledonian according to Chanel) taking the place of the trimmed "karmawood" scratch. The composite amber note from the eau de parfum is also here, but it is turned down and therefore less vanillic or sweet, serving just to round off the additional woods, the lingering mint, ginger, and soft citrus. The result of this stark simplification is a version of Bleu de Chanel which feels more natural, with much more note separation, and clear-cut transitions from the top, heart, and base through the wear. Now I'm not saying there still isn't a prescription's worth of synthetics in the parfum, but they share space with more natural-smelling, if not actually natural accords here, with minimal traces of the "scouring powder" scratch that many things from the genre the original Bleu de Chanel created seem to break down into in the end. Just like the advertisements say, this is a woody, more aromatic, and intense interpretation of Bleu de Chanel.

Whereas I felt the eau de parfum was a sweeter, richer, and quieter take on the eau de toilette made void of it's freshness (and charm), the parfum isn't similarly an aquatic with it's wings clipped, but rather not really an aquatic at all thanks to the prominent lavender. What we have here is a woodsy parfum with a minty lavender citrus barbershop top, using aquatic elements blended into mint and lavender to make the appropriate "bleu" vibe, but without actually feeling like it's replicating the smell of water. Bleu de Chanel parfum has a similar approach to what Aqua Velva (1935) or Gillette Cool Wave (1993) take by placing an aqueous note back behind lavender and mint and not the other way around. Without sounding like I'm debasing the Chanel by comparing it to a drugstore aftershave, let's just say that it's an ephemeral freshness meant to introduce and not dominate the rest of the composition. Once Bleu de Chanel Parfum gets on skin for any appreciable amount of time, it's minty woods, lavender, and amber for the duration, which is a far cry from the original EdT or even EdP, meaning owning the parfum would not be redundant for owners of the EdT, unlike the EdP release. Wear time for Bleu de Chanel Parfum is long and sillage is actually greater than with the Eau de Parfum release, and since it jives differently, one could almost layer the original eau de toilette on top the parfum so as to get that dynamic citrus and pepper on top the lavender, amber, and sandalwood base. People who took issue with the synthetic nature of the original entry, or just hate all things modern will not click with this, and if the original Bleu de Chanel couldn't change your mind about aquatics, this parfum won't change your mind about the Bleu de Chanel line either. The parfum feels like a companion fragrance that's nearly a flanker with the way it stands apart, which is something Dior and YSL also seem to be doing with higher concentrations of their marquee masculines as well. Bleu de Chanel sees Olivier Polge hitting the ground running, and the simple elegant quality here has me hoping that the next great masculine pillar will be a real return to form for the house of Chanel.
22nd September, 2018
The opening gets to the heart of the EdT faster but smells very similar. In the drydown, I get more of the sandalwood, reminds me of the javanol I smell in Molecule 04.

There are loud aspects of the EdT that I really like that are missing here. The Parfum version is subdued or "rounded off" from what the EdT is, so that could be exactly what someone wanted but I'll say the EdT is my favorite of the three versions. EdP is a close 2nd place.

I get excellent longevity and good projection but it is softer than the EdT or EdP.
24th August, 2018
Very rounded with a powdery, grandma aura in the drydown. This one didn't get me.

EDT has the sharpness and fluffiness, feel of freedom of spirit that I want and appreciate.

EDP is more rounded, refined and mature. I can respect that.

PARFUM is too soft, too quiet, too meek. It kind of lacks "the world is mine" type of awesomeness and I dare say it lacks toughness.


Originality: 3/10
Scent: 6/10
Longevity 9/10
Projection 4/10
_____________________
55%
08th July, 2018
Chanel should have named this one Chanel Bleu Black Parfum. A dark, rich and mature version. Chanel toned down the geranium an upped the sandalwood in this gem. A future purchase indeed. 8.5/10
02nd July, 2018
Heartwood soul set free
Fresh and woody inside-out
Yet utterly Bleu.
19th June, 2018

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