Perfume Directory

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Epicene Gamma / Nicolas Beaulieu (2018)
by IFF

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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Epicene Gamma / Nicolas Beaulieu information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
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People and companies

HouseIFF
PerfumerNicolas Beaulieu
SupplierIFF

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Epicene Gamma / Nicolas Beaulieu

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the post-modern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

Spicy, leathery, also slightly green, Epicene Gamma is a composition which bristles with the tension of contrasting facets. Featuring a new Saffiano accord, the effect is of distressed leather, perfectly balanced and connected with notes of nutmeg, clary sage and clean, modern musks. 
 

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Epicene Gamma / Nicolas Beaulieu fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Epicene Gamma / Nicolas Beaulieu

There are 4 reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Epicene Gamma / Nicolas Beaulieu.

It starts with a blast of very dry, earthy, somewhat reedy/weedy green with a slightly sour undertone, like maybe lime rind. I'm guessing there's some kind of modified galbanum-like note here. I enjoy this opening very much. This is what reminds me of Corsica Furiosa, or perhaps a more barren, less damp-earthy-mossy take on Frapin Paradis Perdu's opening.

The greenery gradually smooths out, with the sour citric element fading first. Then it goes to spicy/dry green, then spicy/dry leather. I cannot identify the spice note, with there's a definite warmth coming from somewhere. Is it a bitter cinnamon? Maybe some white pepper? I don't know. The leather note reminds me quite a bit of the base of Cuiron: pure, spare, pointed, and somehow "crunchy" - best word I have for it. Green Cuiron with a mysterious spicy element.

Thumbs up. I like it a lot. Wish it projected a bit more.
07th January, 2019
This modern interpretation of Epicène Gamma base smells refreshingly green and herbal, with the leafy greenery of geranium, powdery verdency of lentisque and the grassy bitterness of clary sage evoking "white tea" to my nose. There is also a steamy clarity upon these vegetal notes that makes me think of "green pea". Occasional surges of peppery sparkles among the verdant elements also bring to mind "green bell pepper" as well.

However, the fragrance is still rather abstract as a whole, despite the aformentioned evocations. With the underlying sour, citrusy woods, it indeed has a retro vibe like those 70's/80's fresh masculine colognes, but illuminated by modern radiance and transparency.

The fragrance gradually loses its opening green freshness with time, but generally maintains the same olfactory profile throughout. The sillage is more or less close to skin and it lasts at least 8 hours.

Considering it as an updated version of a base created during the 70's, I find it quite successful in appealing to modern sensibilities without completely shaking off its classic heritage. Its nuanced green aspect is also closer to what I had imagined prior to sampling Comme des Garçons Amazingreen. However, one caveat I have is that I hardly detect any leathery facet described in the accompanying booklet.

14th November, 2018
Stardate 20180614:

Starts off like Italian Eau de Colgne. Good quality and has something more that makes it really good. Geranium maybe or that Gamma thingy.
I get a lot of citrus here. Citrus that lasts for hours.
This one would make a great addition to Acqua de Parma Colonia line.

Good stuff
14th June, 2018
A green fresh opening. Geranium. Not grassy. No spice initially. Hint of the clary sage. A sprinkling of pepper dances in to continue the energy. It's a nostril flaring scent. Crisp and sharp in a good way. Reminds me of Eau de Rochas Homme but without the citrus. I did not get any leather from it.
17th May, 2018

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