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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Alexis Dadier (2018)
by IFF

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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Alexis Dadier information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
Not enough ratings.

People and companies

HouseIFF
PerfumerAlexis Dadier
SupplierIFF

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Alexis Dadier

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

A juxtaposition of four accords reveal a surprising alchemy: bitter almond milk, Genmaicha tea, a vegetal fabric accord inspired by hemp, and the final piece of the puzzle, a masculine fougere accord.

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Alexis Dadier fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Alexis Dadier

I found this one immediately repulsive, but also familiar. I think there's an unpleasant scent memory at play here, or maybe a combination of memories. The vision I get is the swampy, steamy scent of crowded Disney World after a rain storm. There's the smell of moist, dirty concrete and moist, dirty people mixed with the odor of a trash can full of soggy, greasy amusement park food, particularly doughy funnel cakes. Steaming, greasy, abandoned funnel cakes, yum. And that's about as far as I got before scrubbing.

The included card mentions a few really odd savory/foody notes (almond milk, rice, matcha) that maybe shouldn't be combined with whatever other aromachemicals are at play. I applaud the effort but simply dislike smelling this.
07th January, 2019
The fragrance composed by Alexis Dadier for 2017 Speed Smelling indeed smells to me like how he summed up in the accompanying booklet: "vegan" and "milk".

There's a sharp woody twang in the opening reminding me nail polish, but it's soon engulfed by a warm sweet milk note, along with a strange, sour, fermented vegetation-like smell.

Various nuances come forward at different moments. When something tannin-like and smoky comes through and aligns with the fermented vegetation note, I'm reminded of fermented tea leaves and milk tea as a whole. When a powdery texture and the invigorating spiciness of cardamom make an appearance, the fragrance vaguely recalls rice desserts from South East Asian cuisine to me.

Unfortunately, the creamy milkiness and that sour vegetal note seem too forceful to share any spotlight with other nuances, and largely overshadow them, which results to a rather stagnant "sour mandarine sitting in stale milk for too long impression" to me. Moreover, with its heavy to moderate sillage and a rather excellent longevity (still easily detectable after 10 hours), it quickly becomes tiring to my nose.

In principle, I quite like this kind of juxtaposition between milky elements and something vegetal/smoky/bitter/spicy to cut through it. While this aesthetics is often employed in chai or South East Asian dessert-themed perfumes, I hadn't yet encountered this simultaneously repulsive yet intriguing fermented vegetation aspect incorporated by Dadier. Personally, I'd hope this composition would tone down a bit its creamy milkiness to let other nuances bring in more dynamics, but as it is, I can imagine it being put out by a niche brand with an "unconventional" or "rebellious" identity.
02nd November, 2018
Wow. This one literally smells like I’m hovering my face over a fresh cup of milky, genmaicha tea right out of the gate. You definitely get a toasted rice accord that is very prominent as well as some deep green tea notes. All of this is somewhat sweetened with a milky almond, and as to begins to dry down an earthy, vegetal accord starts to show up and give the scent an umami/soup/broth type of quality. It’s at this stage that the toasted rice accord begins to take center stage and, for me, the scent becomes extremely off putting mixed with the veggie soupiness. It stays like this through the dry down. Out of all of the offerings in the set, this one has been the only one I’ve wanted to scrub off my body immediately. A definite pass for me.
15th September, 2018
Stardate 20180625:

There is this Indian desert called Kheer. basically a rice pudding which generally is garnished with Cardamom, Pistachio/Almonds and other nuts.
What Alexis did is recreated a good Kheer.
No development but this is one of the best use of cardamom. The only use of cardamom that I approve (FWIW).
25th June, 2018
The smell was a child
Who refused to use base ten
For eighty-one's sake.

I saw its beauty
The part with the burning hemp
In a waking dream

The wooden clock face
Shaped like that of a bison
With dozens of eyes

All at the bottom
Held by counting's gravity
Numbering the time

As eyes disappeared
The clock told me without words
It's time to wake up.
22nd May, 2018
Opens with a very strong almond scent and wet rice. Like sautéing slivers of almond with rice. The rice morphs into a soft pasta scent, like overcooked noodles. This smells almost exactly like what is called the "sand accord" in Byredo's Oliver Peoples scent. After about fifteen minutes, I get a whiff of sweet raisins. In a half hour, something dry and musky. Instead of almonds, I'm getting chestnuts now. And then strangely, in the drydown, a layer of something greasy comes to the fore. I was brought to mind the juice from a cooked chicken. Some sort of oil from cooking meat but not the scent of the meat itself. It sounds gross, but overall I was actually neutral on it. Didn't like it but didn't hate it either. The description claims to be mashing up four distinct accords, but the only one that my nose was able to distinguish was the almond.
17th May, 2018

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