Perfume Directory

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Loc Dong (2018)
by IFF


Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Loc Dong information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
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People and companies

PerfumerLoc Dong

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Loc Dong

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

A perfume to be received as a confession of sins: Tobacco leaves, tuberose, dihydromyrcenol, and the star of the show: Cosmofruit, the Holy Grail of innovation that everyone chases.

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Loc Dong fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Loc Dong

rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
A broad floral bouquet with whiffs of a herbal underdone, the ylang ylang is the defining centre chord of this creation. And whilst the ylang ylang's dominance might sound as a recipe for boring linearity, this centrepiece is so well done as to justify the while enterprise.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity.

A nice spring scent, not too sweet and a temptation for the ylang ylang aficionado. 3/5.
17th August, 2019
Right out of the gate, a blast furnace of Yankee Candle Factory butterscotch aroma, right in my nose like a candied ice pick. Immediate take: Lord help me. The color here is a radioactive yellow. This waxy-candy-overload impression is so strong I can't pick up much else for at least 15-20 minutes. I'm just about ready to scrub and pray for relief when a faint light starts emerging at the end of the tunnel, so I stick it out:

Something oddly clean, medicinal, and mineralic is growing, and I think there's something sweetly floral going on here, like Immortelle. This is one hell of an odd scent when these two personalities are at war in the heart.

After another 30 minutes or so, the clean personality has won out, and there's a faintly antiseptic vibe, but also sweet and bubblegummy. The color is now purple-ish green, and there's an icy-cool metallic streak running through it. There's a trace of modern designer familiarity in there, but this still mostly a surreal experience. If you've ever swished that harsh-sweet-antiseptic fluoride stuff at the dentist, it's like they somehow carved out the unpleasant parts of that and made the rest into a palatable smell. I should hate this, but instead, I'm oddly drawn to it. Not that I’d wear it - hell no - but I can’t look away.

This is *by far* the most "postmodern" scent of the 2017 Mostmodern Speed Smelling Collection for me, contorting itself into some strange shapes and pulling the nose in wildly different, somewhat disorienting directions during its evolution.

I love this fact that this is supposed absurdly "bad" in a winky way, perhaps with a tacit middle finger at IFF and other companies behind increasing ridiculous aromachemical abominations: "this is what you’ve allowed me to create, enjoy!" I get no tobacco and I don't specifically pick up tuberose, but I guess that combined with the dihydromyrcenol is responsible for that purple-green mineral/metal fluoride thing.

Fascinating, but totally unwearable. I think that was the point, though.
07th January, 2019
When Loc Dong stated in the booklet about the overdose of dihydromyrcenol, he's not joking. While there are whiffs of creamy tuberose from afar, the opening of this "seven sins of perfumery" when sniffed up close, is actually a massive assault of this molecule to my nose, reminiscent of metallic lemon and lavender, and inevitably reminding me of those unpleasant times when someone walked into a metro or an elevator with a cloud of masculine sports cologne, thus a cloud of dihydromyrcenol.

Thankfully, the mentholated greenness of tuberose and the bitter verdency of galbanum burst into the scene soon enough. This combination slightly reminds me of the same pairing in Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite, but the general impression is completely different due to the significant presence of dihydromyrcenol. While these additional green facets help me to disassociate the overall scent from "mass-market men's cologne" connotation, the metallic and mineral aspects of dihydromyrcenol turns these green leaves into inorganic sharp blades.

These green aspects retreat to the sidelines after about 1 hour, and the remainder of the fragrance becomes essentially a dual between this sharp metallic note, and the slightly meaty but mostly suave and creamy tuberose. As I love tuberose but hate prominent metallic dihydromyrcenol, smelling this fragrance is like going through many jump-scares throughout the day: just when I thought, oh what a lovely tuberose, I got a savage bite from these metallic teeth.

As for the maltol and Cosmofruit mentioned in the booklet, I don't particularly detect the caramel/cotton candy aspect of the former, or the quince and tatin tarte characteristics of the later as individual notes, but the tuberose does have a subtle candied and peachy/fruity undertone that might stem from them. And it more candied, musky, even slightly leathery with time, although the overall floral tonality is still dominant. While the metallic facet does mellow with time, it still remains at the horizon, like a curse that will never go away.

Its sillage is strong to moderate, and it easily lasts more than 10 hours.

I love the pairing of creamy, voluptuous tuberose with fierce green elements in general for the intriguing contrast of texture and scent, and combining them with sharp metallic notes also seem an interesting idea at least on paper. In this "seven sins", I couldn't really get past my hatred towards dihydromyrcenol, but it can surely be marketed as a provocative perfume from an avant-garde niche house, and I'm definitely interested in smelling a version with a different type of metallic notes.
05th November, 2018
Stardate 20180614:

Nice peachy floral.Has that Auphorie Miyako vibe. Not as good. Linear.
I can see this being made into something special. Needs some thing more (oakmoss would be perfect) on top and maybe sw in the base.
25th June, 2018
I found this to be a muted fragrance. Four sprays on each wrist didn't give me much power. There were only two periods for me, the first was a slightly sour butter. Thick and cloudy. Later, there was a transformation to an unidentifiable (by me) fruit and vague green. I disliked the opening, but the base was pleasant enough. Dong claims in his writeup to be representing the seven cardinal sins of perfumers, but I found this nowhere near dramatic enough to carry that metaphor.
17th May, 2018

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