Perfume Directory

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Anne Flipo (2018)
by IFF


Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Anne Flipo information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
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People and companies

PerfumerAnne Flipo

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Anne Flipo

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

A powerful fragrance, rendered addictive: creamy, milky tonka bean, labdanum and Healingwood, the pure heart of patchouli, and a new captive molecule called Coolwood, adding a slightly moist Chypre effect.

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Anne Flipo fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Anne Flipo

My first thought out of the gate was "spicy woody floral". But it's also a little gummy and sweet, with a bright synthetic tone. I had a brief vision of Azzaro Acteur (woody rose), and then it passed. With time, it moves more toward spice and something soapy and cool. There's a neat hot/cold dichotomy going on here.

The soapy/cool side reminds me of the seldom-discussed Ulrich Lang Nightscape, which is a cool, sharp, woody patchouli. This is like a spiced, intense version of that, to my nose. It's an interesting one, and hard to pin down!
07th January, 2019
Just as promised in the accompanying description, Anne Flipo's modern Abrensa base is mainly divded by a soft milky sweetness and mossy woody darkness. These two aspects constantly tease contrasting tensions, yet still mingle together harmoniously throughout.

The mossy woody aspect has a surprising yet subtle metallic nuance. When combined with the sweet milkiness, it reminds me of how the milky and metallic facets in Etat Libre d'Orange Secrétion Magnifique are paired with marine saltiness of seaweed to create this repulsive-yet-intriguing effect. Here it's of course not as remotely disturbing as Secrétion Magnifique, but it does impart a certain metallic animalic darkness.

Although overall the fragrance remains more or less linear, it grows warmer and slightly more ambery with time, and sometimes gives out an abstract leathery dried fruit undertone as well. It mostly stays close to skin during its 10-hour longevity.

This fragrance being essentially a re-interpretation of a base created in 70's, I do find that when wearing it, I was wishing it being integrated into other elements to form a more complete fragrance, but it's still an absolute delight to smell on its own. What I find interesting, besides the enticing contrast between comforting milkiness and menacing mossy woods, is that it maintains the 70s retro vibe, but at the same time seems apt to go into a more futuristic setting as well, thanks to its metallic undertone. Personally, I'd love to see it one day find its way into a new creation signed by Anne Flipo.
12th November, 2018
The initial spray gave me an extremely milky tonka with a subtle herbal edge. There is also clove in there and a mossiness starts to appear as it starts to dry down. Not really detecting any labdanum, but the milkiness persists and this wood shows up that I can’t quite put my finger on. I think I really would have enjoyed this one had it not been for that milky note that ends up sticking around entire duration of the fragrance, but other than that it’s a pretty decent, generic mossy wood.
11th September, 2018
Stardate 20180620:

Herbal, leathery , mossy. Reminds me of Heeley Cuir Pleine and the Or Black. In a few minutes the leathery herbal aspect go away and a sweet sour clovey lactonic sort of fragrance remains . A promising one but needs more work
25th June, 2018
Chypwrecked on Ifra,
We hid our oakmoss in the
Heart of patchouli.

The movie ended
Standing at the crossroads of

The beauty of the
Olfactory steel I-beam
Lies in its future.
22nd June, 2018
This is the most well-composed scent to me of all those I've tried in this kit, if a thematically focused scent. The focus is woods, but there are enough layers to make it feel satisfying and full. It opens with mildly spicy woods. I'm not quite educated enough on oakmoss, but I believe this spiciness is from an oakmoss accord because it didn't remind me of pepper or cloves. There was a subtle sharpness woven into the dry woody texture. Over time then, this became creamier with tonka, not quite caramel smooth. The tonka bean notes almost became fruity for me in the mid-period but only gently. An apple note like apple wood or apple juice even. In the long tail, this resolved into a smooth creamy sandalwood scent.
17th May, 2018

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