Perfume Directory

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Jean-Christophe Herault (2018)
by IFF


Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Jean-Christophe Herault information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
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People and companies

PerfumerJean-Christophe Herault

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Jean-Christophe Herault

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

The rum accord at the heart of this composition recreates a likeness to whisky. Nova orange and mandarine conjure the effect of Grand Marnier. Davana essence brings the finishing touch with its cherry notes. A reinvented and mouth-watering gourmandise

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Jean-Christophe Herault fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Jean-Christophe Herault

Fruit brandy, yum! This one opens feeling almost carbonated, reminding me of the fizzy-fruit opening of the Ropion scent from this collection. The fruit simultaneously subsides and becomes more tart to my nose, though I can't identify the specific fruit(s) are involved. Grape passed my mind for a short time, but then it became something more like pomegranate, but I wouldn't bet on either. According to the card, cherry is the fruit. I can see a tart cherry.

The fruity opening started out a little high pitched, but the accord has smoothed out and deepened into a very nice heady, rich, and lifelike booze accord; I like this a lot. It isn't too sweet, and maintains a certain fruity-alcoholic purity for a long time, with a very slight dry ambery accord gradually joining the party later. Obvious references include Idole EDT and Ambre Russe, two excellent booze scents. This is like they extracted the most boozy aspects of both and laser focused on them. So mostly this feels like a great booze accord exploration, with not much evolution, but still perfectly wearable as-is.

Big thumbs up!

07th January, 2019
This Jean-Christophe Hérault creation opens with a seamless blend of bitter liqueur, hints of preserved cherry, a tannic woody undertone and bright orange flavour that creates a very convincing Grand Marnier accord, along with a delicious whiff of cacao powder.

The fragrance mostly maintains this boozy accord throughout. While it loses the cacao note after about 30 minutes, a soft vanilla creaminess creeps up around the boozy accord and evokes a pina colada/preserved stone fruits impression to me, depending on the proportions of creamy, boozy and fruity elements.

The patchouli backbone becomes more discernable after 3 or 4 hours, and the fragrance also turns a tiny bit more ambery with time, although the pina colada impression more or less remains. I also occasionally get allusions of honeyed fruity rose as well. The sillage is moderate to soft, while the longevity is at least 7 hours.

I don't often enjoy boozy fragrances, because their booziness are usually very overpowering, likely boosted by woody amber aromachemicals to satisfy the obsession of strong sillage/extreme longevity. Combined with the often lack of nuance, the result can be very tiring to me. But here, the facetted, tender creation of Hérault avoided the major pitfalls, which turns it into a very enjoyable boozy scent. I'd love to smell it integrated into a complete formula one day, provided it's not reworked into a brutal sillage monster.
15th November, 2018 (last edited: 16th November, 2018)
A boozy/whiskey opening here that comes with some delicious, sweet orange notes. The davana is definitely there and is giving the fragrance this sort of succulence that almost seems to make my mouth water, but this is not an overly sweet fragrance. As it dries the booziness starts to subside and eventually dies, but a powdery/muskiness comes out that really mixes quite nicely with the orange and davana. So far, this is one of the better ones in the set and would love to smell a fully flushed out version of it.
13th September, 2018

Starts with a nice booze. Note says rum I get Cognac. There is some sweet citrus (orange according to the notes). The booze accord dies soon and you are left with sweet , slight citrus fruity (in a good way) candy with some musk. I like this and I think it can be made into something nice along the lines of Idole
28th June, 2018
Not exactly sure
Why great booze is postmodern
But I'll sniff to that.
23rd June, 2018
Opens with a very straightforward sweet rum. Becomes slightly bitter rum with spices emerging and a literal alcohol scent. Almost rubbing alcohol. A little black pepper, perhaps hint of cloves. Evolves to hints of cherry and orange, not quite candy but mildly sweet as the alcohol fades. This ran out on me a little too quickly for my taste.
17th May, 2018

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