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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Bruno Jovanovic (2018)
by IFF

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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Bruno Jovanovic information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
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People and companies

HouseIFF
PerfumerBruno Jovanovic
SupplierIFF

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Bruno Jovanovic

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

A beautiful skin musk with a slight detection of an intoxicating Cognac note. An enveloping fur accord is tempered by an ocean-like molecule: Maritima. The animal is back, and one could say it’s rather feminine.

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Bruno Jovanovic fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Bruno Jovanovic

For the most part, I read it as a plasticy floral to start. A big overblown synthetic rose. For a good deal of the opening, my general thinking was that it smells like something you'll smell at the mall, probably marketed to teen girls if you could get teen girls into rose, but with the "mall" aesthetic turned up to artistic, ironic levels. I envision a bottle with giant cartoon smoochy lips on it.

As it evolves, it turns into more of a laundry musk, still basically floral, and with a spicy-fresh sharpness to it, like it's playing with the border between mega-market feminine and masculine archetypes. Can't say I like it much, but I suppose I respect it. It feels like a statement.
07th January, 2019
Bruno Jovanovic aims to recreate the memory of a woman spraying perfumes on fur collar, a glamourous image of the past. And in the accompanying card, he explained how he created the deer musk effect with today's synthetic materials in great detail, but puzzlingly, he left out the most significant player of this composition: a meaty, jammy plum-like, winey and slightly minty and medicinal patchouli-rose.

The fragrance opens with a manure-like note not dissimlar to the animalic oud accord in Nishane Afrika Olifant, but here it's much more streamlined and trimmed of much of the acrid smoke and animalic warmth, to the point that it feels somewhat sterile even though it clearly alludes to something animalic. The aforementioned patchouli-rose accord also immediately kickes in, and swiftly relegates this docile animalic note into a footnote.

The clean powdery white musk effect does become slightly more perceptible with time, which makes this fragrance in my mind like 80% jammy purple patchouli-rose + 20% clean white musk-patchouli-rose à la Margiela Lazy Sunday Morning and Narciso Rodriguez for Her EDP. A briny effect can also be perceived at the periphery at one point, but it crashes into the mighty patchouli-rose rock in no time.

The fragrance then keeps this monotonous pounding drumbeats of jammy yet medicinal patchouli-rose for hours and hours, with the only saving grace in the late dry down after 10 hours, when the musk finally integrates into the rose, creating a musky, honeyed rose effect. More sensual than the previous phases, but still comes off quite rigid and robotic compared to other musk fragrances.

The sillage of this fragrance is quite powerful, and the longevity almost over 12 hours, only amplifies its tiresome nature.

Out of the 14 compositions, Jovanovic's composition is among the most disappointing to me. Because most of the accompanying cards actually describe their matching fragrance very well, Jovanovic's omission of rose (he apparently did use rose according to a post of blogger greekgoddess) and emphasis on musk created a strongly disconnected experience to me. Even though later on I came to view it as primarily a patchouli-rose fragrance with certain musk facets, I find the patchouli-rose here pretty routine as the type featured in modern "majestic" rose fragrances, thus not very inspiring. And the musk accord doesn't seem to integrate with the patchouli-rose matrix, either, and sadly almost get completely crushed by it until late dry down. In the end, it's not as sensual as those rose-musk with real musk, not as edgy as Imaginary Author Bull's Blood, and can't really distinguish itself from the myriad of patchouli-rose, either.
16th November, 2018
This one opens with a prominent rose note alongside some musk. This rose is very soft and rounded out with an almost fuzzy type of quality to it as it begins to dry. At no point did I get any cognac, fur accord, or marine notes, but the dry down is a soft rosy musk that is actually very pleasant. This fragrance is linear, but a very nice interpretation of rose.
15th September, 2018
funk.warm && jazz.cool
paper.rose.tigress.add(skin)
&& fur_gonna_fly
01st August, 2018
Stardate 20180622:

Great rose with some spice. Not sure what it is. It is slight minty, anisic. A POAL like spice but not patch or clove. Maybe one of their captives.
The musk and cream shows up to later.
I like this one but that may be because I love roses.
The Fleur de Peau by diptyque uses something similar (rosey musk)
It lasts long and I think it is a worth POAL (current formulation)replaceement in the later stages.

There are much better roses out there like poal, fleur, voleur etc but this one is a good starting point.
25th June, 2018
A floral opening. A bit of rose there, not sure what else, possibly hibiscus. In the background I get hints of cool ocean water. Gentle white musk enters and closes this as the base. A pleasant scent if not very inspired.
17th May, 2018

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