Perfume Directory

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Juliette Karagueuzoglou (2018)
by IFF

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Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Juliette Karagueuzoglou information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
Not enough ratings.

People and companies

HouseIFF
PerfumerJuliette Karaguezoglou
SupplierIFF

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Juliette Karagueuzoglou

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

A curiosity and desire for earthly pleasures: Cacao absolute, coconut water, olibanum incense and a euphoric symphony of base note accords: Amber Xtreme, Sinfonide, and Ambertonic.

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Juliette Karagueuzoglou fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Juliette Karagueuzoglou

A dry cocoa and vanilla-amber-incense, dusty and quite faint after a short amount of time. It feels kind like a lazy Jo Malone attempt at something like Borneo 1834 or maybe Ummagumma. The opening is pleasant but uninspiring.

After some more time on skin, the base is a bit harsh and thin on me.
07th January, 2019
Juliette Karagueuzoglou puts a gourmand spin to the offering to gods - incense, and the opening is indeed a mouthwatering dark chocolate composed from bitter cacao powder and a creamy coconut undertone.

Then the incense gradually rises to the surface. The accompanying card describes the employed ingredient - olibanum heart, as "cleared of its antique dust", which I find very close to how I experience the incense note here. It imparts a cool, otherwordly sensation, even minty at times, without any dusty, earthly evocation.

So far, I quite enjoy these two major components. However, a third player proves to be unpleasant to my nose: an aridly dry sensation imparted from a certain woody amber aromachemical, Amber Xtreme according to the card. Granted, it's relatively under control compared to many smoky oud or boozy amber fragrances, but it hangs above like the sword of Damocles, threatening to crack the gourmand altar at any time. I guess that this type of dry smoky sensation is probably more modern than the natural dustiness of olibanum, but as these woody amber aromachemicals are more widely used now, they also become somewhat déjà vu, and I kind wish an "ancient" dustiness for a change.

As the initial chocolate note fades with time, the fragrance becomes slightly more ambery with a subtle leathery dried fruit and creamy musky undertone, but it maintains the overall cool incense effect until the end. The sillage is quite soft, while the longevity is along 9 hours.

Karagueuzoglou's chocolate incense kind of reminds me of Fanny Bal's Nutella amber and Nelly Hachem-Ruiz's Mother Milk patchouli, because all three are a tried-and-true gourmand variation on a classic accord, especially in the indie perfumery territory. They benefit from classic training and more refined materials to appear more smooth and more composed, but also may lose the rugged artisan charm depending on one's taste. I still think this fragrance has potential and would love to see it further reworked or incorporated as a partial accord, as long as the woody amber aromachemicals are well harnessed.
19th November, 2018
This one opens up with a sharp, subtly smokey frankincense with a very vague amber-ish accord that stays the entire length of the fragrance. I get a bit of powdery cocoa that almost hides in the background and occasionally pokes its head out, and the same goes for the sickly sweet coconut. It’s like the two alternate in appearance. This one projects too! I put one spray on and I could smell it radiating from my arm for hours. That being said I don’t know if that’s a good thing as this creation has an extremely synthetic feel to it and got so cloying it gave me a headache. A definite pass for me.
08th September, 2018
Chococat worship
Deserves this perfume, not those
Polytheist types

With bedroom shrines to
Sanrio's plush pantheon
Of sweetness and light

With their Kitty and
Badtz Maru and assorted
Cuteness deities

Ambretsuko or
Whatever her real name is
New gods for new times

Featuring some new
Offering like chocolate
Okay, scratch that one

But you get my point
Only CHOCOCAT deserves
Choco-incense bliss

Be that to hold it
All together in these days
May require touch of

Ethyl saccharine
Enough to fill Tonka's Truck
Under Christmas tree

There we go again
'Nuther syn(cr|th)etic outburst
For sweet Coco nuts

So Hello Kitty's
Adoring guaiacolytes
May want to sample

Not to mention those
Reformulation lovers
Itching for the next

Modernization
Timeless style remaining thru
New techno fashions

But ultimately
You either believe in fine
Fragrance or you don't

The latter thereby
Giving fragrant believers
Someone to convert

Thanks be to (^.*$) no
Religious test of fragrance
Or fragrance lovers.
19th August, 2018
Stardate 20180625:

I am not a big fan of cacao in perfumery cause most perfumers don't know how to use this note. Most of them end up with strong coconut-fig accord instead of real cacao.
I only know of two who got it right - Juliette and Sarah of 4160. I guess ladies know their chocolate :).

This one is cacao and some woods (cedar mostly).
Nicely done but lacks development.
25th June, 2018
This one did an unusual dance between notes for me. It opened with a dry powdered, natural smelling cocoa, not particularly sweet. Soon, the incense came up strong from the background, and the cocoa receded. The slightly humid incense was actually a nice complement to the dry cocoa. Then as the two notes began to simmer together, with the cocoa becoming stronger again, the blend became definitely more like chocolate than cocoa. As they merged, the incense shimmered in the background and reminded me of mint. The based landed on a mint chocolate accord that was, however, not as sweet as is sounds.
17th May, 2018

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